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Jase

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Hi There,

A couple of weeks ago, I was talking to a mate at work, and he asked me if I would have a use for a sodastream system. I said 'absolutely' :D Price; $0 B)

Then a day or two later, he mentioned that he had an old 45 litre keg that he was getting rid of, and asked if I'd be interested. I said 'absolutely' :D Price $0. :beer:

He brought the keg to work today, and I thought it was too good to be true. It wasn't a 45 litre keg, but this:

keg_001.jpg


Now that's awesome!!!!!!

I need to fill the hole on the side of the keg. I was thinking of a stainless plug and some epoxy putty. The expoxy putty is rated to 260 degrees c, and is safe to use on drinking water tanks. Any ideas?????

keg_002.jpg



Cheers,
Jase.
 
Is the hole threaded?
If so, just apply plenty of pluming tape to the threaded pug and you'll be fine.

If not...I dunno <_<

PZ.
 
silicon??

my dad, who's a sparkie, has the saying 'if it can't be fixed with gaffer tape or silicon, it can't be fixed'. I suppose you have to be there.
 
thats a pretty decent sized hole youd have to fill. i suppose you could try a brass electrical stop plug and locknut which will range anywhere up 60mm. only thing is, the brass stopplugs are rare.

The only other way would be to weld a plate over the hole but i'd suspect it might be cheaper to just find another keg and start fresh.


vl.
 
Jase,

Do you have access to the inside of the keg(I assume you do but cant see it in the pic)?

There is a s/steel fabricator/welder down at Lumeah.
 
Rather than fill it, make it a real ale keg!

That is an onld wine keg, but still not tough to have sparkling real ale at home with one of those!
 
why not just get a solid rubber bung - positive that come that big - and plug it/wedge it in there.
 
/// said:
Rather than fill it, make it a real ale keg!

That is an onld wine keg, but still not tough to have sparkling real ale at home with one of those!
[post="98990"][/post]​


GMK said:
why not just get a solid rubber bung - positive that come that big - and plug it/wedge it in there.
[post="98992"][/post]​

I'm planning on using it a kettle. Will the rubber bung withstand the temperatures???

Cheers,
Jase
 
In that case, cut a hole in the top and get someone to weld a Stainless steel plate over the inside of the hole. Won't cost you much and it will be a good job. I'd hate to see the rubber bung come out midway through the boil, but anyway I don't think rubber will leave a great taste in your pils-I could be wrong.

Your kegs legal so take it to a welding shop.

Cheers, JD
 
I'd be inclined to think that the bung would blow under the pressure/heat/agitation of a boil. :ph34r:

Warren -
 
FWIW I have a similar vessel I am converting into a big kettle for double batches and I am planning on getting a plate welded in to cover the hole. I don't think rubber or silicon is really suitable for this job, but that is just my opinion.

Good luck with it,

Shawn.
 
Cut a hole in the top, make sure you leave enough of a lip for a lid to sit on it.

Take it to a welding shop and get them to weld a plate over the hole in the side. Also, get them to cut a hole in the side near the base, weld in some pipe and attach a valve. The ball valve that you already have may be suitable. That will mean you have a tap near the base of your boiler.

You haven't spent anything acquiring the boiler (which most brewers will be extremely jealous of) so lash out and spend a few dollars and get the right bits welded on to do the job.
 
pint of lager said:
Cut a hole in the top, make sure you leave enough of a lip for a lid to sit on it.

Take it to a welding shop and get them to weld a plate over the hole in the side. Also, get them to cut a hole in the side near the base, weld in some pipe and attach a valve. The ball valve that you already have may be suitable. That will mean you have a tap near the base of your boiler.

You haven't spent anything acquiring the boiler (which most brewers will be extremely jealous of) so lash out and spend a few dollars and get the right bits welded on to do the job.
[post="99014"][/post]​


Gota agree with POL - Makes perfect sense...
 
Gough said:
FWIW I have a similar vessel
[post="99012"][/post]​

Na, yours is much shinier. ;)

Linz,
I would note that although a bit trickier to weld..a patch will be much better welded on the inside than the outside as you will end up with a bad crap trap if you don't.
Although silicon will never exceed 100deg in this instance I still would avoid it.

Are those fittings on the ends standard or been fitted 'aftermarket'

Borret
 
Get a piece of stainless welded over it, why would you bother doing anything else.

Or if you know someone that can weld, even if you don't, they will be at the least a little bit clued up, they should be able to weld a S/S tap to the outside of the keg, then all you have to do is match a piece of pipe to stay 50mm above the base, this would do for the main bulk of your boil, you just wouldnt get the volume under the tap, but at least you would keep it from getting the break and Hop mass.?????

Casey
 
I'd cut the keg in half, lengthways, and hinge the two halves together.
Then place a bbq burner inside.
Instant spit roast.
 
Borret said:
I would note that although a bit trickier to weld..a patch will be much better welded on the inside than the outside as you will end up with a bad crap trap if you don't.
[post="99019"][/post]​

too true,
lob up to any workshop on a saturday morn when the boss is not about and get a patch T.I.G Welded on for an easily negotiated slab.

still a cheap vessel. B)

cheers
yard
 
How big is it again? Looks good as an old ale keg. Tap on the front. Bung in the hole.
If it was free, I would invest your good fortune into a couple of big (60+ litres), good stainless pots.
Last a lifetime and can be passed on to kids etc.
Whats $200 bucks each. You might spend that much a quarter on commercial beer anyhow.
My vote...old ale keg.
cheers
Darren
 
i use to have a boiler like that i welded handles on it and also welded over the plate so i m always cleanind in side of it (it bit hard to wels alll around on the inside plus the tap in the bottom u can use a 3/4 s/s fitting to fit it then i used compression fittings with a bit pf s/s tube then the tap it makes a bit of work with the hole and and handls but tap is easy
 

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