Keg King ROBOBREW 35L SINGLE VESSEL BREWERY

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I'm thinking this link on grainfather profile setting will be helpful to set up the profile with a few tweaks. I just got my robobrew in the box so not sure what the dead space under the malt pipe is - it's 3.5L on the grainfather:

http://back-2-basics.com.au/How-To-Page/GRAINFATHER-profile-beer-smith

Taken from here: http://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/forum/topics/the-grain-father?commentId=1500433%3AComment%3A210609&xg_source=activity

Grain absorption seems a variable I'll have to work out by trial and error depending on my crush. This will be my first big AG brew :)
 
Anyone bothered taking apart the Robobrew ball valve to clean off manufacturing oils? I just got a SS Brewtech fermenter and the valves were dripping with lubricant inside...
 
Gave the Robobrew a test run with water. Heats up to mash temp in about 30m from 20 degree water, then boiling in another 30m. Temperature readout during boil at 2400w didn't go above 101 - perhaps not surprisingly - boil seemed reasonably robust. Chiller brought it down to 30 degrees in about 40 minutes.

There wasn't really any packaging material separating the boiler, malt pipe and chiller - so a few scuffs on the interior metal. The boiler rocks very slightly on a flat surface - not really a problem empty or full - but is this the same on others? The lid isn't a particularly great fit.

I was surprised there was no o-ring on the inside nut for the ball valve, but perhaps this is normal?

This is my first time using an immersion chiller - seems like it would take a long time to get it to 20. But perhaps if I drain to my stainless fermenter that will take off a few degrees.
 
Tafe wordpress assignment :p

Glad he posted the dimensions of the thing though, I'd been wanting someone to do that.
 
fj42 said:
Looks like someone's trying to capitilise on kegking's lack of domain name awareness.

http://www.robobrew.com.au
The guy would lose that domain if anyone with a valid claim to it sought it. From a very basic search he hasn't used a business/company/trademark/etc with a legitimate tie to the domain name.
 
Did my first robobrew last night. Had a few teething issues, and would be interested in any advice - this was my first 20L AG batch, having only done a couple of 5L BIABs before. In short, the mash temp in the pipe was 4 degrees lower than the set temp despite recirculating, and the sparge stuck (which made recirculating inefficient anyway). I expect the crush or my technique is to blame? Or is the use of rice husk necessary (I didn't use it)?

The recipe was a ESB with 5.5kg grain milled at the LHBS. I've had grain milled there for the 5L BIAB with no problems. In retrospect, the 5.5kg did look like it had a bit too much fine stuff in it. Maybe they didn't check the mill?

The Robobrew manual tells you to fill the malt pipe with grain, then put it into the water. That seemed like a recipe for dough balls to me? So I put the malt pipe in the mash temp water and rained in the grain stirring to avoid dough balls. At 18L of mash water it was very stiff/thick so I added another 2L. The Robobrew manual says 15-20L depending on grain bill, so that should be ok.

The display reported it was holding to 67 degrees well, switching on the 500w heater periodically. But the temp inside the malt pipe was generally 63-64 degrees over the course of the hour's mash. This was despite pouring off 1.5L (which was at 67) and scattering it in the top of the malt pipe every 10m, and sometimes every few minutes as I was trying to get the mash temp up.

I think part of the cause of low mash temp was the pipe wasn't draining well despite my stirring efforts, and the water level inside the pipe was at least a third higher than the water level outside the pipe.

After the mash was complete, and despite my expensive gym membership, it was a heroic effort to lift the waterlogged pipe out of the robobrew with both hands. My long suffering beautiful assistant slide in the stand for me. It dripped slowly, and eventually I had to scrape the bottom of the pipe with a long paddle so it would release the sparge water I was pouring in.

I ended up with a slightly lower OG than expected (but also about 5L less volume than expected). The next morning, there was about a cup of drippings into the bowl from the maltpipe had a gravity of 1.062 which seemed very high to me (ie. lots of sugars left in the grain?).

I realise I'm a newbie with my first big AG batch, and look forward to advice :)
 
I have a grain father but i avoid stirring too vigorously when mashing in as it stirs up the fine particles which causes the mesh to clog and results in a stuck sparge.
 
Do people with grainfathers or robobrews find the actual mash temperature is what the temperature dial says it is? Is it necessary to insulate the boiler to achieve that? And does it work to fill the malt pipe before lowering it in?
 
I also did my first ever allgrain brew on the Robobrew this week and experienced some of the issues above.

I milled my own grain at 1.1 mil and 1mil for the wheat (recipe was Dr S's Golden ale). Next time I will increase the gap by .05 mill and adjust up further as necessary.

Using Beersmith I had brewhouse efficiency set at 72%, I think a more realistic figure will be around the mid to high 60's which should alter the mash efficiency and help with hitting my OG (target 1057 actual 1051).

I recirculated the wort using a KegKing pump. My target temp was 67C, however in order to achieve this temp at the top of the grain bed I had it set to 68C. The recirculation was set very slow due to what I believe the grain crush being too fine/too much flour.

The whole process also took longer then I thought, but this should shorten considerably with practice. By the end of the day I likely consumer too much home brew to!
Any way live and learn, with practice I see the Robobrew as being a very good way to brew beer. Not set and forget, but requiring some input into the whole process.
 
One of the experienced brewers running my LHBS recommended to me this morning 1.9 mil on a 2 roller mill, aiming for less than 15% flour.
 
Yup your 1V crush shouldn't be the same as your BIAB crush. You want more of the grain husks intact to help with the grain bed, for particularly sticky mashes (e.g. lots of oats) you may need rice hulls.

You want you mash temps readings to be where the highest temp wort will be.

Improving the crush will help your sparge and flow through the grain bed. water in the malt pipe should be above the water in the urn.

Adding the grain to the mash water is like underletting should = less dough balls.

Not recirculate to early or to fast to begin with, you need to establish the grain bed. On my 1V recirc I mash in then leave for say 10mins before slowly starting the recirc.

Sparge water can take sometime to get through the grain bed, save time by sparging while the rest of the unit is reaching the boil.

Work out some kind of pulley system to help you lift the malt pipe, makes brew day easier.
 
I've just installed Beersmith (wish I'd done it before my first two brews) and setting up my Robobrew profile now. Any comparisons/guides would be greatly appreciated!
 
Elz said:
I recirculated the wort using a KegKing pump. My target temp was 67C, however in order to achieve this temp at the top of the grain bed I had it set to 68C. The recirculation was set very slow due to what I believe the grain crush being too fine/too much flour.
Hi Elz, did you have the pump running constantly? and did you set up anything on top of the grain bed for it to drain on to?

My second Robobrew left me with the following notes - some self-evident - look forward to any comments or tips that others have :)

- rice husks works to improve filtering, but the pipe is still bloody heavy with 7kg grain - brew on the ground level next time.
- if the temperature drops say 3-5 degrees below target after grain addition, it won't regain target temp in the top of the grain bed even with an insulating jacket and manual recirculating- add boiling water (or push my strike temperature up?
- It seems variable as to how many degrees below the target triggers the heat - during mash out it dropped from 75 to 71 before turning on (perhaps the 1900w has a different setting before it triggers?).
- this time, despite a constant temperature reading, I noticed the wort drawn off for recirculating was 3-5 degrees less than the reported temperature?
- I seem to need about 1-2L more mash water than expected for a manageable mash consistency (eg. more than the grainfather calculation of Grain Kg x 2.7 +3.5)
- hop flowers can plug the tap/pipe - use a hop sock
- with 18 degree domestic water temperature, getting the Robo below 30 degrees is a challenge - perhaps use ice.
- the inside of the lid seems to have tiny rust-coloured spots - perhaps passivation was necessary.

My thermometer stuck into the top 10cm of the grain bed was always about 62-63 degrees rather than the target 67, as was the 2L wort I was drawing off every 5-10m to recirculate. I decided to roll with it to see what happened. Efficiency at the end was 67%. Not sure what that will do for my fermentability etc, but next time I guess I should add boiling water!

Cheers,
B
 
I did my first brew without a pump just to see how it went and I got about a 3 deg difference from top to bottom. Every brew since has been with a pump and the system works much better. I find only about 0.5 deg difference. because the temp sensor is so close to the elements you don't get an even temp throughout without constant recirculation
 
Heh Binggo, I had to run the pump slow in order to ensure there was enough wort above the grain bed, around 3cm+/-. If I run the pump too fast the wort was not filtering through the grain bed quickly enough. The pump was running constantly and lhad just the hose lying on the grain bed.I like the idea of adding 1 to 2 litres of extra water to the mash. This may 'loosen' things up? As mentioned previously I will also do a coarser crush, which should see less flour.
Cheers
Elz
 
sparkatron said:
I've just installed Beersmith (wish I'd done it before my first two brews) and setting up my Robobrew profile now. Any comparisons/guides would be greatly appreciated!
Echoing this request for a Beersmith profile.

Just ordered one of these today and hoping to knock out a brew or two next week to get back in to AG brewing.

What sort of boil off rate are people getting and are you using both elements for the duration of the boil?
 

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