Isinglass And Bottle-conditioned Beers

[Julez]

Hi guys,

I'm wanting to make my brews a little clearer in the glass, so I've picked myself up some Isinglass. I know that if it's effective, it will cause quite a whack of yeast to drop out of the beer before I bottle. Obviously, I still need sufficient yeast for carbonation though. I'm wondering if there is any logic to clarification with Isinglass, then using a suitable quantity of fresh, highly flocculant yeast when bulk-priming to provide sufficient cells to adequately carb the beer when it's bottled? What do you guys that bottle-condition do to clarify your beers?

Cheers, Julez :icon_cheers:

 

[quantocks]

have you tried using Gelatin finings?

it'll save you wondering about adding extra yeast, if you still have enough yeast left over for carbonation, etc. Plus it's pretty proven.

 

[flattop]

I've used isinglass, about 20-25mls per 23 liters, worked fine, all the beers still carbonated without problem in the bottle. Beer is very clear.
Moved to gelatin recently just to see the difference but that brew is still only in its 2nd week in the bottle, i plan to crack it around NYE.

 

[Julez]

have you tried using Gelatin finings?

Hi Quantocks,

I do want to use the Isinglass specifically, but I guess my question is more asking - is there any point, if I have to add yeast when bottling again anyway? Will this approach be worthwhile in terms of the results I can expect?

Basically, I wanted to fine my beer with Isinglass (I will also be using Polyclar), then rack off the lees, add fresh yeast of a highly flocculant variety, prime and bottle. If there is a better method for using Isinglass when bottle-conditioning, I'm all ears

 

[Bribie G]

Isinglass from the swim bladders of fish (how the hell they ever made the connection with brewing, it must have been a hint from the Almighty ) is commonly used for finings in situations like UK cask beer where the beer is racked into casks just a few days into fermentation then fined with isinglass and the casks sent to the pubs to condition for a few more days.

As Quantocks posted, probably a better option for home brewers, and far cheaper and easier, is gelatine. I get a tub of Mackenzies Edible Gelatine from Woolies. I just gelatined a brew today, a heaped teaspoon dissolved in hot water (sterile water that has been boiled and allowed to cool a bit).

Hint: add to cold beer preferably. I chill the fermenter overnight before adding. Allow a couple of days for the yeast to settle out.

Even though you cant see them there's enough yeasties left to carb up the brew. Here's a picture of a brew ON BOTTLING



It has turned out as fizzy as. However give it a couple of weeks more to fizz up than a 'cloudier' brew on bottling. Gelatine won't remove chill haze. If your beer goes hazy on chilling that's chill haze. You will need to use Polyclar. Add this to cold conditioning beer after the gelatine finings have had a chance to work.

Edit: too fast, beat me re the Polyclar ... you are on the right track.

 

[Julez]

I've used isinglass, about 20-25mls per 23 liters, worked fine, all the beers still carbonated without problem in the bottle. Beer is very clear.
Moved to gelatin recently just to see the difference but that brew is still only in its 2nd week in the bottle, i plan to crack it around NYE.

Howdy flattop - if this is the case, that the beers will carb up no dramas after isinglass with no additional yeast added, then that's going to save a lot of mucking about in adding more yeast. Is this the experience of others too?

Julez

 

[buttersd70]

Have not used issinglass specifically, but never had a problem with carbonation when cleared using other methods (gelatine, 1 micron cartridge type filter). The beer will look clear, however there should still be ample yeast in for carbonation. I've not heard of anyone needing to repitch yeast for bottling under normal circumstances (ie not depth filtered, normal alcohol levels and healthy fermentations), even with the use of isinglass.

 

[Julez]

Have not used issinglass specifically, but never had a problem with carbonation when cleared using other methods (gelatine, 1 micron cartridge type filter). The beer will look clear, however there should still be ample yeast in for carbonation. I've not heard of anyone needing to repitch yeast for bottling under normal circumstances (ie not depth filtered, normal alcohol levels and healthy fermentations), even with the use of isinglass.

Thanks Butters, sounds good, will run with that then.

Cheers :icon_cheers:

 

[flattop]

No problems with Isinglass i used it in 5 brews out of 11 this year it is impossible for me to compare side by side with similar brews as i made each one slightly different.
That said, none of my brews are undercarbonated, those that do not hold a full head still have lace work for the entirety of the drinking (for me 5-10 mins per stein on the 2nd stein).
The darker beers and one Cerveza that i bottled early have full heads as do the brew's i dry hopped.

In short Isinglass is fine if you don't mind drinking fish organs..... I got a 100ml bottle and used about 20mls per brew....

 

[buttersd70]

In short Isinglass is fine if you don't mind drinking fish organs.....

It is classified as a processing aid, as it is absent in finished beer.

 

[Rustin]

Bit of an older post, but just wondering who does it this way now? And also how long are you letting the finings drop out before you bottle the beer?
Not wanting any in the final product are you allowing to settle out leave for say 3 days at, then bottle? Any issues with under carbonation?

 

[Mardoo]

I have let mine drop out for week. I add the isinglass at 10 degrees, drop temp to 4 degrees, let sit a week, rack off and bottle. Zero problems carbonating.

I've also used gelatine and can't say I can tell the difference. Isinglass will, of course, re-settle whereas gelatine is said not to. I plan to find out once I start kegging.