Introducing Brewton

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well tonight saw the maiden batch of beer out of Brewton. A S.M.A.S.H (single malt and single hop) beer with Barret Burston Ale malt and Citra hops. Smash made me think straight away of "Hulk Smash!!!" straight away so we have a Hulk Citra. It was going to be Hulk Cascade but I realised they were at Anna's parents place and I had come Citra in the fridge so used it instead.

Everything went very well. I had to improvise the sparging a little bit as I hadn't really worked out a proper pot rest, but Grant (zapper on this forum) had come over to grab 2 spare pot lids and helped me arrange things.

I ended up with about 24L of 1060 wort. Calculates out to 79% brewhouse efficiency according to the numbers from BrewMate. I'm quite happy with that. Up 9% from my BIAB efforts. If it is repeatable then I'll be happy for a while with those numbers. Not quite ready to chase efficiency gains down the rabbit warren yet...

1-mashingTowel.png

Mashing setup.
I've got a towel on top to help trap in some heat. My PID code worked really well, although I might have to make some adjustments to the code when mashing out as the higher the temp gets, the bigger the gap between target and actual temp.

2-littleBitClearer.png

Recirculation during mash just started. You can see that it is very cloudy and barely able to see the top filter plate.

3-holySmokesClear.png

It's getting a little bit clearer now
It's getting a little bit clearer now
It's getting a little bit clearer now

Man that wort is clear. Beautiful!!

4-ghettoPipeStand.png

Extremely ghetto malt pipe stand. I had forgotten about this aspect and thought of something on the fly whilst mashing.

5-citra.png

Citra in my hop sock.
Man, Citra smells good!!!!

6-maltPipe.png

Malt pipe after sparging. It was a bit of a tight fit with 5.5kgs in the malt pipe but I reckon I could fit some more grain in there. Maybe another 400gms or so. I think 6kgs would be pushing the friendship.

7-cubeHop.png

10gms Citra cube hop
yum yum.
I'll probably keg hop this as well.
ha ha....

8-workStation.png

The workstation.
Someone on AHB suggested it looked like R2 D2 and I think he is right. Maybe I should go for a name change????

9-24LitresHulkCitra.png

24 litres of Hulk Citra!
Angus smash!! (when it is kegged and carbed....
 
Congratulations! Must be satisfying to brew on it!
 
Week done, you made your rig and brewed your beer. You must be stoked. I'm glad you changed it from pilsner and cascade to ale malt and citra, make sure you dry hop it too.
 
Yeh, I'm sure everyone knows how satisfying it it when you plan and build something for 2 years. Already have a list of things to fix and upgrade.

Top voile filter is very thin and already has some splits in it. Might try and scrounge some more stainless mesh from somewhere.
 
The spare piece of mesh I have is slightly too small to cover the holes in the top filter plate. Was good to do the sparge on though. Distributed the water quite nicely.

Last runnings off the sparge were 1025. What's the recommended min gravity runnings?

Yeh, I got confused between the malts. I think cause it's bb ale malt and bb pale ale malt (it's not actually called pilsener malt). I do loooove citra keg hop.
 
When my sparge is finished I tend to get about 200mls into a tub that it rest on while the boils gets going, that is usually about the 1020 range +\- 5 gravity point from brew to brew. Make me wonder how much more sugar I could get from it but I have my preboil target volume and gravity made.
 
Yep, same Pratty. I calculated my sparge to end up with required pre-boil volume.

I didn't get much more liquid out of the pipe after setting it aside and didn't think to test it. But last bit of runnings coming out of pipe when resting on main pot was 1025 so probably a bit more sugar to extract. I'd like to increase my end-ferment volume so I can do some bottles to set aside as gifts for friends. So maybe increase my sparging to extract to 1015 and see what volume I end up with.

Would then need to do on the fly hop calculations to account for changed batch volume. Or just chuck some in and wing it. Ha ha.
 
he he, started ferment last night and I think I have set myself up for a cleanup. I only worked out last night that I had used a 25L cube so in fact had about 26L or wort.

Put it all my 25L fermenter so I have about 4 cms head-space for my US-05 ferment. 25L of wort at 1060 seems a bit higher than 79% to me when my batch volume was set to 23L.

Oh well, I've been meaning to buy a new 30L water barrel (Bunnings, SuperCheap, etc) for fermenting in. The one I currently use has a lip just above the tap so some yeast sits there and gets drawn into the filter I use. Just need to make sure it fits into my little bar fridge.
 
So I guess I haven't done an update to this thread in a while. I ended up getting the largest stainless steel fry pan splatter guard I could find to replace the voile filter. The guard is not quite large enough to sit over my malt pipe, but seems to have held properly through another 3 brews.

I ended up giving my PID system a thorough workout with the dunkel weizen I brewed for the QLD case swap. 5 different temps in the step mashing, and the beer worked out better than I had any right to expect for my first DW. After talking to Parks and a couple of other guys I am going to extend the 72 rest to 15 minutes to add a bit more body in. If that doesn't improve things I will have to add in a 67 or 68 degree rest in the mash schedule.

So my next task is to programme in mash schedules as I manually set the temps and manually timed the rests for the DW. Tedious when I know I can programme this stuff in and get software to do it. Just to find time with a 2 year old and a 2 month old... Oh, and knock out a robust porter and a heffeweizen for winter. I don't really subscribe to brewing certain beers for certain seasons. :)
 
I love your final design of the bottom filter/seal.
What sort and size of bolts did you use? Hex head or Philips pan/csk head? I am thinking of doing the same but cutting slots in the pot instead of 35 million holes...
Your setup is really looking great!
 
Honestly can't remember what type the bolts were. I would assume stainless Phillips head. I don't really need to crank down on the nuts for the bolts coming through from the seal. It is more just to get the stainless mesh to form a good seal against the bottom of the malt pipe to prevent grain escaping during pump rest.

Qld Kev has cut up a Big W pot (or at least some smaller pot) in the manner you are talking about. You could go through his posts and find it. I think he put photos up in the mammoth braumiser thread.
 
Some yeasts require a lot more headspace (empty space above your wort) because they form a massive krausen (foamy stuff above wort) during active fermentation.

Apparently Wyeast 3068 is one of those yeasts. It actually ended up puking out the glad wrap for a good 18 hours or so. Required a bit of clean-up and some sanitisation on the outside of the fermentor and inside my fridge.

Oh, and in answer to Pirate: I used stainless steel M4 bolts from Bunnings.
 
Thanks for the great info here Angus - I love your method of doing away with a separate bottom filter plate and just drilling holes in the inner pot's base......and the sealing of the malt pipe to the main kettle base is genius!

Just a couple of questions regarding your top filter plate. I think you're using a Whitworth's Veggie tray? (https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?item=3175&search123=tray&intAbsolutePage=1)

Do you find that the tray bends at all when pumping? How thick would the tray be? It also looks like you don't have a separate cross-bar or anything bracing the tray or to pull down on the malt pipe? Are you just screwing a wingnut down on the central rod and this pushes the tray down onto the top edges of the malt pipe, and this seals the base and the top filter?

Great build!

Cheers
Matt
 
Yep, just using a SS fry pan splatter guard and whitworths veggie pan as top filter assembly.

No bracing or cross bar required. The splatter guard has never looked liked bending. I have a chugger and have run it full tilt with grain bill. I would guess 2mm or maybe 3mm.

Just a SS wing nut on the threaded rod clamping down on malt pipe sealing top and bottom
 
Well the single veggie tray has started bending. I have since got another veggie tray and sandwiched the mesh from a fry pan splatter guard between the two as the top filter. An idea I pilfered from xredwood's brau-build.

This works really well but I think I may have to invest in a metal plate or something to lock the malt pipe down as the trays are bending. Probably more to do with clamping force than upwards pressure from the pump. I cut up some silicon tube last batch to help seal so hopefully this will seal better and require less clamping pressure.

I also confirmed that my system will not do 6.3kgs of grain in the malt pipe. Wort foutains, stuck recirculation, blowing my bottom pipe seal 3 times, etc, etc. Back to 5.75kg max grist until I get my extended malt pipe working.

Work also continues on the mashing software to automatically read temps from the beer.xml mash schedule. This is probably 4-5 hours away from done. It's very hard to wrangle 4-5 hours away from family time. I'd love to have it done by Xmas but the Xmas break should give me enough free time to really knock it out..
 
I just want to reply to this bit for other people reading this thread. An alternative approach if you want to use a spare laptop is to use an Arduino (or whatever), which is just a USB serial COM device, and then send/receive data to/from the Arduino with any software you like (Python, Java, .NET, C++,...) using a standard serial library.

It does work pretty well in managed languages like Java and .NET because you can quickly knock up a decent GUI in Swing using Netbeans or Eclipse, for example. It gives you the ultimate flexibility because you can have more complex programs, display temperatures as analog meters, whatever you want once you have the data.

angus_grant said:
There are people who are running brewery system using the Netduino (and Arduino) so the horsepower is there. It was more the hoops I was having to jump through to get temp reading (using beta firmware to get 1-pin working) working, and then an LCD display working, and then I would have had to run a network cable to brewery system to have uploads to database. Or try getting a wireless network card working. So solving problems instead of moving forward.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top