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Robbo2234

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Hi all,

I made this the 10 days ago

3kg Light DME or 3.5kg Light LME
300g 77L British Crystal Malt
350. British Torrified Wheat

120g British Amber Malt

30g (1 oz.) Brewer's Gold/Northdown/Challenger : Boil 60 minutes

30grams. Kent Goldings : Add to boil for the final 15 minutes
30grams Fuggle : Add to boil for the final 1 minute

1 Whirlfloc tab in last 15 minutes of boil
I Pushed it out to 28 litres but still got it to 1044 as that was my target.

us05

I was in a rush and after 10 days I figured it was done, I chucked it in a keg and just at the end I figured it would give it a read, 1022ish.....****!
at the moment it sitting in the keg chilling away at pouring pressure.

should I bother doing anything?
now its off the trub do I need to put it back in the FV and throw in some more yeast?
 
Hi all,

I made this the 10 days ago

3kg Light DME or 3.5kg Light LME
300g 77L British Crystal Malt
350. British Torrified Wheat

120g British Amber Malt

30g (1 oz.) Brewer's Gold/Northdown/Challenger : Boil 60 minutes

30grams. Kent Goldings : Add to boil for the final 15 minutes
30grams Fuggle : Add to boil for the final 1 minute

1 Whirlfloc tab in last 15 minutes of boil
I Pushed it out to 28 litres but still got it to 1044 as that was my target.

us05

I was in a rush and after 10 days I figured it was done, I chucked it in a keg and just at the end I figured it would give it a read, 1022ish.....****!
at the moment it sitting in the keg chilling away at pouring pressure.

should I bother doing anything?
now its off the trub do I need to put it back in the FV and throw in some more yeast?

You've effectively racked the beer. Why not 1) just chill out, 2) let the keg sit at ambient - closed lid - and vent a few times a day to release CO2 buildup (or not). 3) Let it finish and then push the yeast sediment out with a bit of CO2 push and then carbonate in the same keg? (or not, dunno abt this).

PS: Unless you filtered, there'd be enough yeast in there to restart fermentation.
 
yeah, that's what i'd do too. Assuming when you put it in the keg you didn't splash it around too much, i'd just burp excess CO2 until it really is done, then proceed as normal.
 
I used a tube to fill the kegs so no splashing about,

I also cold conditioned for 3 days prior to keging is there still going to be enough yeast to continue fermentation?
 
I used a tube to fill the kegs so no splashing about,

I also cold conditioned for 3 days prior to keging is there still going to be enough yeast to continue fermentation?

Probably
 
I've done something exactly the same. There should still be enough yeast in the beer to finish itself off so just take the keg out, let it warm to ambient temp and just let her sit. It should still drop but it may take a while due to there being nowhere near as much yeast.

Cheers - Mitch.
 
A bit OT, but can I just point out that unless the Amber is diastatic, the torrified wheat won't have been converted by anything....
 
I used a tube to fill the kegs so no splashing about,

I also cold conditioned for 3 days prior to keging is there still going to be enough yeast to continue fermentation?
I ccd a brew for a week recently and it was really clear goinginto the keg. I accidentally doubled the priming sugar in the few bottles I used after filling the keg. I opened the bottles after 5 days and some had just commenced carbing. Others were already gushers. There was definitely enough yeast left to kick off again.
 
Update time,

left at room temps around 20c for 6 days checked my refractometer ,didn't move a bit.

I did mention in another post that I thourght some of the yeast blew out the top of my air lock as I over filled my fermenter there was a heap of trub in the airlock and over the lid.

live and lean I guess.
 
Update time,

left at room temps around 20c for 6 days checked my refractometer ,didn't move a bit.

I did mention in another post that I thourght some of the yeast blew out the top of my air lock as I over filled my fermenter there was a heap of trub in the airlock and over the lid.

live and lean I guess.

Was going to ignore due to profanities being posted elsewhere today, but they appear to have been removed, so.....

There's your problem I'm guessing. You can't read fermenting beer gravities directly with you refractometer. You'll need to enter the figures into a refrac calaculator (plenty online or in beersmith).
Or dust off your hydrometer & give it a twirl.

Cheers Ross
 
yeah tip for every one don't leave AHB on your pc when you work with d***heads!

I will have a look at the cals!

thanks
 
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