IIPA Help (First time creating my own recipe)

[IR44]

Make sure to calculate your strike water temperature before mashing in. Plenty of new brewers aiming to mash at 67C make the mistake of heating their water to 67C and then adding grain, losing a few C in the process, mashing low as a result

Thanks for the advice, this is something I had overlooked, so thank you

Quick calculation puts strike water temp at 74.6 (C)

 

[laxation]

If you're not sure about your efficiency, could the DME be added after boil into your fermenter - so if you are already at or close enough to your ABV you can just skip it.
I don't sparge, so you should check - but I think sparge water is supposed to be 75-78 degrees.

Also you might need more water. I use 33L in an urn and lose a fair bit to the grain bag - 5.5kg of grain usually takes me to 31L, giving me a 23L batch after boil and trub loss. When I did a strong IPA I lost HEAPS to the bag! Ended up topping up with 2L of boiled water into the fermenter, which was no problem. So just consider topping up with water into the fermenter, or maybe even sparging with a bit more hot water if you can. As I said, I don't sparge - so someone else should probably tell you whether there's any problems with adding water that way

Recipe looks tasty though, nice work

 

[Lionman]

I did a IIPA early on in my AG and it was a cracker.

I did an iterative mash, doughing into the wort of the first mash after splitting the grist in to 2 batches. I pitched it onto the cake of a APA which made sure there was plenty of yeasties in there. Reached FG in 4 days.

I need to do one similar again soon.

HOME BREW RECIPE:
Title: Double Mash IIPA

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: Imperial IPA
Boil Time: 120 min
Batch Size: 23 liters (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 36.4 liters
Boil Gravity: 1.055
Efficiency: 79% (brew house)
No Chill: 15 minute extended hop boil time

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.088
Final Gravity: 1.016
ABV (standard): 9.41%
IBU (tinseth): 122.94
SRM (morey): 9.04

FERMENTABLES:
7.5 kg - Pale Malt, Maris Otter (92.6%)
200 g - Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (2.5%)
300 g - Cara-pils (3.7%)
100 g - Caraaroma (1.2%)

HOPS:
30 g - Magnum, Type: Pellet, AA: 14, Use: First Wort, IBU: 53
40 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 12, Use: Boil for 0 min, IBU: 25.05
40 g - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, AA: 13, Use: Boil for 0 min, IBU: 27.14
40 g - Amarillo Gold, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.5, Use: Boil for 0 min, IBU: 17.75
50 g - Amarillo Gold, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.5, Use: Dry Hop for 3 days
50 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 12, Use: Dry Hop for 3 days
50 g - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, AA: 13, Use: Dry Hop for 3 days

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Temperature, Temp: 65 C, Time: 60 min, Amount: 25 L, Saccharification 1
2) Temperature, Temp: 78 C, Time: 10 min, Mash out 1
3) Sparge 1
4) Temperature, Temp: 65 C, Time: 60 min, Saccharification 2
5) Temperature, Temp: 78 C, Time: 10 min, Mash out 2
6) Sparge 2

YEAST:
White Labs - San Diego Super Yeast WLP090
Starter: Yes
Form: Liquid
Attenuation (avg): 79.5%
Flocculation: Med-High
Optimum Temp: 18.33 - 20 C

 

[SeeFar]

Apologies for the hijack but I have a question regarding yeast that's come up in this conversation.

I pitched an IPA that had an OG of 1091 (my recent brews came in under the expected ABV, wasn't taking chances with this one) but I used a single packet of US 05 (11.5gm) that had been rehydrated in a glass of room temp water for a couple of hours.

Should I be using more yeast than this in such a high gravity beer? I noted that 2 packets were suggested last page and wondered why that was the case.

Cheers.

 

[Lionman]

1.091, minimum 3 packets.

 

[Coodgee]

Lionman, was the carapils just in case 9.4% ABV didn't give you enough mouthfeel? haha

 

[Jack of all biers]

Apologies for the hijack but I have a question regarding yeast that's come up in this conversation.

OG of 1091 ... I used a single packet of US 05 (11.5gm) that had been rehydrated in a glass of room temp water for a couple of hours.

Should I be using more yeast than this in such a high gravity beer? I noted that 2 packets were suggested last page and wondered why that was the case.

If your room temp was 35C then you should have rehydrated a couple of packs.

I'd link you to Mr malty, but I'm on my phone, so google it or search on here. If you don't pitch enough yeast and don't treat them well (look up why I mentioned 35C on the fermentis website) then you can expect underattenuated beer and/or more off flavours than if you pitch correct amounts of yeast.

 

[SeeFar]

THanks for that. I've now seen the calculator on the Malty website and that says I should have used two packs or approx 20gm. So I rehydrated and chucked another 11.5gm in, coming smack on 48 hours after the first lot was pitched.

I keep the yeast in the fridge and it seems the temp that I was rehydrating at (approx 25c) was suitable, luckily.

I'm going to have to learn how to recycle yeast from the trub. I got back into this game largely to reduce the cost of my craft beerr drinking habits but the costs continue to climb at each and every turn!

 

[mtb]

Bear in mind you're making a very high ABV beer. Costs compared to a commercial equivalent remain tiny even when pitching a couple extra packs of yeast. I fully recommend yeast harvesting but while you're getting back into the swing of things, it may be an unwelcome distraction from the base processes that are ever so crucial.

 

[laxation]

I'm going to have to learn how to recycle yeast from the trub. I got back into this game largely to reduce the cost of my craft beerr drinking habits but the costs continue to climb at each and every turn!

You can easily save money with yeast.

All you need is some liquid yeast and a big flask.

And some DME for the starter
And a stir plate
And someway to cool it down, like a fridge. But one just for your brewing.
Little containers to freeze it in I hear are good
but you need glycerin for that too
And if you like you can buy a little hotplate so you can heat up your starter next to your kettle outside

BUT after all that you can reuse yeast forever so you got that going for you ... which is nice

 

[IR44]

Thanks for all the advice. Taking it all on board.

Bit confused with the amount of yeast i'll need, MrMalty calc says 21g, Brewersfriend cal says 51.1g.

As I'm brewing this Friday, think I have left it a little late to make up a starter. So I've purchased another packet of us-05, will now be pitching with a total of 36.5g of US-05, hopefully that will be enough.

I also plan to harvest my yeast at the end of the ferment, another first for me, so see how that goes. Would be nice to never have to purchase yeast again

 

[Coodgee]

36.5 grams of yeast will be a good number for that beer. regarding yeast harvesting, I like to time my brews so I am kegging one beer on the same day that I am brewing the next. There is generally time to do the kegging during the boil or while chilling I find. Then you can just scoop out a cup of slurry from the previous brew and put it in the new brew. I get nervous trying to store yeast for extended periods of time. I am good with sanitation but it's hard to trust 6 hours of work ona freshly made wort to a bottle of yeast slurry that's been sitting in the bottom of the fridge for a couple of months.

 

[Grott]

Then you can just scoop out a cup of slurry from the previous brew and put it in the new brew.

So this is for a 23 litre batch? You obviously find it’s enough yeast in other words you don’t add extra?
I get a bit confused with this “cup process” as you read over pitching will........under pitching will............

 

[SeeFar]

MTB and Laxation, thanks for the info, appreciated. MTB, you're right about savings and scaling. When my current batches are down to a decent standard and process I'm going to try the harvesting thing. Laxation, that sounds like the dream but I have to pace out my spending (mortgage, baby on the way, two other expensive hobbies, wife is an accountant, etc, etc...) so what you've described will be a "strategic goal". Coodgee, I might try a basic and cheap extract brew to try the "scoop a cup" method. Grott, I most definitely share your confusion and apprehension. I have a phobia of ruined brews and unsatisfied anticipation of quality beer!

Thanks again, all, really helpful.

 

[SeeFar]

Thanks for all the advice. Taking it all on board.

Bit confused with the amount of yeast i'll need, MrMalty calc says 21g, Brewersfriend cal says 51.1g.

As I'm brewing this Friday, think I have left it a little late to make up a starter. So I've purchased another packet of us-05, will now be pitching with a total of 36.5g of US-05, hopefully that will be enough.

I also plan to harvest my yeast at the end of the ferment, another first for me, so see how that goes. Would be nice to never have to purchase yeast again

Really keen to follow your process of harvesting the yeast and your (hopeful) success.

 

[Lionman]

Lionman, was the carapils just in case 9.4% ABV didn't give you enough mouthfeel? haha

Making doubly sure there is plenty of thick, white, long lasting head.

 

[Coodgee]

Making doubly sure there is plenty of thick, white, long lasting head.

everyone loves a bit of long-lasting head.

 

[Coodgee]

So this is for a 23 litre batch? You obviously find it’s enough yeast in other words you don’t add extra?
I get a bit confused with this “cup process” as you read over pitching will........under pitching will............

A cup of yeast slurry from a standard 23L batch of your average APA or IPA will be plenty to inoculate another standard 23L batch of APA or IPA. You can use a yeast calculator like Mr Malty but if you are using yeast slurry you have to select how thick and pure your yeast slurry is with some sliders. So taking the mid-point of those values gives about 200ml which is 4/5 of a cup... so I add 25% extra to err on the side of over-pitching versus under pitching. I don't think a modest over-pitch is going to do any harm to an IPA or APA; maybe if you are talking a hef or something it might be important. I have done this many times and it works very well.

 

[Schikitar]

I'm going to have to learn how to recycle yeast from the trub.

I think it's better to harvest from a good yeast starter rather than from a finished beer - it's fiddly and takes more time than it's worth, all that cleaning and separating, urgh.. (Please note: I'm lazy)

Going the scoop or full dump on a yeast cake has always worked well for me, I tend to step up or sideways with the brews (eg. don't pop a lower gravity beer on the cake from a higher gravity).

 

[SeeFar]

Well ****, at close to 10% my current brew is going to be difficult to best in terms of booze points.

Going to have to do some reading on the options of using the yeast cake and how to do it (will always gratefully accept any good links folk care to donate to that cause!!)