I need some help and advice - raising the alcohol content once in ferm

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Chris Roscoe

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Hey guys, I'm currently in some trouble with my brews that are currently in the fermentation process. I have been all grain brewing for only two weeks now and in that time I have managed to do two 23L batches (one IPA and the other an American Pale). With the first batch (the American Pale), I started with the strike water at 70 degrees and mashed for an hour (as was instructed on the recipe). Because I started out with 23 liters though, the strike water was just above where my thermometer dial sits in my mash tun. By the time mash process was complete, I realised the mash had reduced below the thermometer probe (most likely due to liquid reduction from sitting on a flame) and as a result I only had half my intended batch size going into the boil process which was another hour on top of the mashing. What this meant, was that my intended mash temperature of 65 - 67 degrees was probably closer to 80 + degrees. This is because the temperature probe was above the actual mash and the readings which I was getting off the dial were completely inaccurate while I had the mash under heat. By the time I got around to pitching the yeast I had around 12L of beer instead of the intended 23L. I figured because I only had half the amount I set out for, I only needed half the yeast from my starter (which I had on a stir plate for about 24hrs).

To make matters worse, I couldn't sparge properly either because one of my heating elements in my kettle blew making it very difficult to heat up the second runnings of strike water in time.

When I took a hydrometer reading, the alcohol level was only around 1.5. Its now been two weeks and the reading is still at 1.5, should I add some sugars to my carboy to bump up the alcohol level or would this spoil my extremely low alcoholic brew? Throughout fermentation the beer has sat between 14 to 22 degrees and hasn't moved much below or above. On top of this, the brew has completely stopped pushing CO2 through the airlock and there was no bubbling or any other signs of activity going on inside the carboy.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Secondly, my IPA which I just brewed over the weekend has also had some troubles. During last week between brewing the American Pale and the IPA, I managed to fix my kettle's heating element and tweaked a few minor things which some friends suggested. I had some US-05 on a stir plate over night prior to brew day (Saturday 24th).
Things I did differently this time around:
- Started with 29L with my strike water as opposed to the 23L with the American Pale.
- Mash process took 90mins instead of 60mins
- the mash was meant to be at 65 but because I was using all three pots instead of two (like with the previous batch), it was very hard to maintain heat as I had no flame under the mash tun because I needed it with HLT in the next step. So it basically sat around 58 - 56 degrees for the last half (45 Mins) of the mash process. Because I was on my own, I couldn't shift the pot onto the heat as it was way too heavy and didn't want to risk anything. I tried everything to maintain the heat in the mash tun i.e. insulating it with towels and blankets and even topping it up with boiling hot (100 degrees) water every now and then. Unfortunately there was nothing I could do to get the temperature back to where it needed to be.
- sparged an extra 20L (as was instructed on recipe) as opposed to the no sparging at all with the American Pale.
- boiled between 80 and 85 degrees for an hour compared to 90 + degrees with the previous batch.

The recipe was intended to make 23L but made a comfortable 46L. The hydrometer reading was around 11% too which seemed unusually high - i figure this is probably to do with the mash not being done right. The real problem I'm having was when I checked the carboys this morning it was spewing out yeast and beer from the airlock and had actually forced the airlock to come off. I cleaned the exterior of the carboy and washed out the airlock and sanitized it and it started to bubble a bit. The other batch which was made on the same day looked good as gold - I still haven't taken a hydrometer reading since Saturday - but will probably do so tonight after work. Any suggestions or tip would help out greatly! Thanks!

Roscoe

Brew day 1.1.jpg
 
I'm confused :)

for your hydrometers we need the gravity not the alcohol.

So you'll hear the words SG was 10 46, which is 1.046 and FG 10 07.

Are you doing BIAB

You don't heat your MLT (unless your recirculating or the like)

Add some insulation to the MLT

Search and read in the forum
 
mxd said:
I'm confused :)

for your hydrometers we need the gravity not the alcohol.

So you'll hear the words SG was 10 46, which is 1.046 and FG 10 07.

Are you doing BIAB

You don't heat your MLT (unless your recirculating or the like)

Add some insulation to the MLT

Search and read in the forum
Oh thanks!

Yeah I was just using the hydrometer to gauge out the alcohol levels (it has it written up the side of the hydrometer which category you want it in - I know you are meant to take the OG reading from the FG reading and multiply it by 131 to work out the ABV(or something like that).

Yeah I probably should have gone down the BIAB road (given as how I'm a beginner). But at the same time I didn't want to be limited to BIAB, so I went down the path of a 3 tank system with a 50L Kettle (HLT) at the top that heats up my strike water, 50L MLT (with false bottom and sparge at top linking into the bottom of kettle) and 75L boiler - all of which can be recirculated by two pumps. The two magnetic pumps on my system aren't that great though, they seem to take quite a lot of priming before they start pumping - I think this is actually where a lot of my problems have been stemming from.

What would be the best Insulation for the MLT? I've seen a lot of folks use rubber - do you think that this would do?
 
Your first beer sounds like a write off I'm sorry! I wouldn't bother wasting any more effort trying to salvage it, let it finish and see what you end up with, chalk it up as a learning step.

You really shouldn't be applying any heat to your mash unless you really know what your doing. Mash temperature is rather critical. Insulate your mash tun(I use a foam camping mat cut to size and wrapped in tape, works well) and get your strike water at the right temp so you hit your target mash temp. I generally have a couple of liters of boiled water on hand if I need to adjust up a few degrees or cold water to adjust down. A hand held thermometer/probe is ideal at this stage so you can check various spots in the mash. Once your on your target, close up the mash tun and leave it be. A couple of degrees drop over a 60min mash is not a big deal.

Lots of cool equipment isnt going to brew beer for you - you still need to know what your doing. Understand how to read your hydrometer and what it means.

It may help to do a 'dry run' on your system, just using water to work out how its all going to proceed and behave, before wasting $$ on ingredients trying to work it out on an actual beer. I did this when my system was new to help gauge boil off rate and any wort transfer issues etc.

Good luck at your next attempt!
 
Thanks for the tips!

Yeah probably shouldn't have gone all out on it, but I get a bit carried away on things like this haha (certainly don't regret purchasing it - loads of fun!).
I'll be sure to do a bit more research on the equipment side of things and get the mash tun insulated.

Just one more quick question, how much water can I use to regulate the temp before it will effect the beer?
 
As long as you have enough volume left to sparge.

You sort of need to work back from your desired final volume. Software really helps, I use Beersmith to help calculate amounts and temperatures, but you also need to take lots of notes because a lot of it depends on your equipment - hence the dry run to start with.

Basically, one way to look at it, is if you want to end up with say 23L into your fermenter, you may find you need to start your boil with say 32L

32L - (9L boil off + 2L trub left in the kettle) = 23L into fermenter

To get 32L into your kettle with say ~6kg of grain, your total mash and sparge volume may need to be 38L

38L - 6L grain absorbtion = 32L

I generally do a 2 step batch sparge, so I may mash in with 15L, drain to the kettle and then do 2 x batch sparges of 12L which then gives my desired pre-boil volume.

These are all hyopothetical numbers but it gives you an idea.

If you go overboard with too much water adjusting the mash you will find you dont have much volume left to sparge. If this is the case and you end up with too much water in the kettle pre-boil you can try and boil longer to boil-off some volume and get the gravity back up.
 
Chris Roscoe said:
- boiled between 80 and 85 degrees for an hour compared to 90 + degrees with the previous batch.
As in the hour long boil when you put your hops in? (basically the last step)
This is meant to be a BOIL, as in at or over 100 degrees
This sterilises the wort, isomerizes hop oils, drives off DMS/Volatile oils,coagulates proteins, concentrates the wort via evaporation, etc...
The heat is needed, keep it at a rolling boil

Also, at this point, BIAB wouldn't be limiting you to anything (unless you want to do giant beers right off the bat, 6% or more ABV)
I'd suggest using your 50L pot on a burner at the moment and doing a few BIAB batches just to get the basics down and completely understand what's going on, use a proven recipe like Dr Smurto's Golden ale or Tony's LCBA
Go read http://howtobrew.com/ it's going to give you a great understanding of the process and will hopefully help you avoid any more newbie mistakes :)
 
That's certainly cleared up a whole bunch of queries I had! very useful info so thanks heaps for that Frothie!
 
sp0rk said:
As in the hour long boil when you put your hops in? (basically the last step)
This is meant to be a BOIL, as in at or over 100 degrees
This sterilises the wort, isomerizes hop oils, drives off DMS/Volatile oils,coagulates proteins, concentrates the wort via evaporation, etc...
The heat is needed, keep it at a rolling boil
So does this mean that because my temperature was below the 100 degrees mark, its probably not going to work...?

I've decided that I'm going to BIAB for a while - although the idea of brewing giant beers does sound awfully appealing! :drinks:
I will definitely do either a Dr Smurto's Golden ale or Tony's LCBA this weekend as a BIAB session - super keen to get something drinkable on the table!

Cheers for the tips Spork!
 
It probably won't be anywhere near as bitter as it was supposed to be, may or may not be susceptible to infection and may be cloudy/hazy
Give the Golden Ale a go, it's a delicious beer and is quite an easy process
Look up some tutorials on BIAB and give it a crack
If all goes well (and you're kegging) you can go from grain to brain in 7 days if you really want to
 
I would spend some time researching basic all grain processes and reasons behind the processes before your next. BIAB or 3V is irrelevant until you understand the relevance and function of mash temperature and the function of wort boiling.

These things are relatively easy to find. Post here if not clear/easy and I or someone else will explain it.
 
Read John Palmers 'How to Brew' before your next brew. Dont worry if you dont understand it all. Before you move on to your next brew after that, read the bits you didnt understand again. Repeat process and research what doesnt make sense from your take on Palmer until you have a basic understanding as Manticle said.

Do this and you will start winning on brew day.
 
Seeing that you're just around the corner from Grain and Grape pop in there on saturday for a BIAB demo by Geoff and Dan.
It really does help to see someone else doing it to understand whats going on.
 
How many v are you running?

Agree you should understand process first.. If you have the time, will be running in my upgraded 4v herms system Sunday and you are quite welcome to pop round and have a gander / ask lots or questions... Reasonable distance though to Ringwood.

Have a search for the "dedicated HERMS" thread and read read read...

That first one does seem like a write off sorry to say...

Either way, keep at it, you'll nail it with a bit of research!!
 
You can do high-ish ABV beers with BIAB. I'm cold crashing a saison that is at 8.2%. Admittedly there is some simple sugar in there, but it'd still be around the 6.7% mark without it.
 
Phil Mud said:
You can do high-ish ABV beers with BIAB. I'm cold crashing a saison that is at 8.2%. Admittedly there is some simple sugar in there, but it'd still be around the 6.7% mark without it.
Why not just do a normal sized grain bill in maybe a bit less strike volume, and boil it for longer to get the volume down and the gravity up? Would this work for achieving higher ABV beers without using a **** ton of grain?
 
Yob said:
How many v are you running?

Agree you should understand process first.. If you have the time, will be running in my upgraded 4v herms system Sunday and you are quite welcome to pop round and have a gander / ask lots or questions... Reasonable distance though to Ringwood.

Have a search for the "dedicated HERMS" thread and read read read...

That first one does seem like a write off sorry to say...

Either way, keep at it, you'll nail it with a bit of research!!
Oh that would be super helpful if I could... Let me see if I can sort out a car (mine is getting worked on atm) and I will certainly take you up on the offer! cheers mate!
 
Yep, that'd work I'm sure - TBH my efficiency is a bit unpredictable, this time around it was OK, but that's why I beef up my grain bill - only adds a couple of dollars to the cost.
 
manticle said:
I would spend some time researching basic all grain processes and reasons behind the processes before your next. BIAB or 3V is irrelevant until you understand the relevance and function of mash temperature and the function of wort boiling.

These things are relatively easy to find. Post here if not clear/easy and I or someone else will explain it.
Yeah I've been super lazy and probably should of done so much more research into it! But I'm having an absolute ball with it all! I have been watching a whole bunch of youtube videos on the mash process - but like king kong said I should really just get off my ass and read this Palmer book AKA "the bible" as everyone puts it lol (**** I love the attitude of brewers!)
 

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