How Much Power is Too Much?

[BradG]

I don't think you can do that. The element will still use 3000w, which will result in overload of the circuit and trip the breakers, blow the fuse, or melt the wires and cause a fire.
Edit: 3000w on 240v is 12.5A. May not be enough to trip the breakers, but is still above the current rating of the wiring and sockets etc.

 

[TheWiggman]

The circuit will handle it by itself, but that's surprising advice from a sparky. Yes you'll probably get away with it but that's very bad practice.
Have a look at onlinebrewingsupplies, I have the 2400 and 3600W elements and they're both excellent. Also reasonably priced.

 

[trevgale]

I'm not sure how you be able to limit it to 2400W, if you plug it in it will draw 3000W. You might be able to use a variable voltage SSR but you would need to know what resistance on the control side corresponds to around 190V.

 

[klangers]

That is rather irresponsible advice from an electrician. I'd take that advice very cautiously indeed.

A 3000 W element has less internal resistance than a 2400 W element, hence why it can draw more current than the 2400.

However, if you household circuits are not capable of delivering the current at the rated voltage, the resistance of the circuit (the wires in your house) will of course result in a voltage drop. This will then reduce the power output of your element and your electrician mate is banking that this happens before your circuit breakers/fuses trip. It can also have nasty other effect like heating up the wires in your walls and starting fires.

 

[mabrungard]

I use 5500w to boil about 25L batches and that high power is useful in bringing the wort to a boil more quickly. The important qualifier is that I also have one of these regulator units ( http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=444 ) to significantly reduce the power delivery once the boil is going. This works very well.

 

[Fylp]

Oh shit! He said I'd get by, I guess safety was optional. Spoke to the fella at 5 star today and I reckon I'll go their element anyway.

 

[GibboQLD]

I'm not sure how you be able to limit it to 2400W, if you plug it in it will draw 3000W. You might be able to use a variable voltage SSR but you would need to know what resistance on the control side corresponds to around 190V.

You could temporarily use something like this to limit the voltage supplied to the element. Since the element's resistance is static, lowering the supply voltage will also lower the total power consumed.

 

[Matplat]

I just bought one of these, however I am yet to run it.

Also be aware that despite the fact that is says it is 1" bsp thread, it isn't! it is something a bit weird, and I have had to use a tapered tap to widen my 1"bsp socket to get it to fit. Does mean it should seal nicely though.

 

[Fylp]

I consulted a less dodgy electrician who said I could get away with the 3000w, but then listed a whole lot of reasons to either chuck in a 15a point or stick with 10a. I also asked a few more question of the 5 Star fella and I reckon they seem the good option whether I go the 2400w of the 3000w. I'm leaning towards being patient waiting for the boil and going the 2400w.

 

[rude]

I = V/R or W / V so 3000 / 240 = 12.5 amps

GPOs rated at 10 amps so 3000 w is out for a 10 amp gpo

The wiring to gpo would be 2.5 mm protected by a 16 amp C/B min of 2 ccts

3600 watts for 15 amp cct

4800 watts for 20 amp cct

7680 watts for 32 amp cct

 

[Cortez The Killer]

You could temporarily use something like this to limit the voltage supplied to the element. Since the element's resistance is static, lowering the supply voltage will also lower the total power consumed.

There's a 10000W version available as well - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10000W-AC-220V-SCR-Voltage-Regulator-Motor-Speed-Controller-Dimmer-Thermostat-/400800508138?hash=item5d519268ea

Have been using one on a 3600W element with good results. Also have a 15A ammeter wired to see what I've dialed in. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-AC15A-Analog-Panel-APM-Current-Meter-Ammeter-Gauge-85L1-AC0-15A-/191069032418?hash=item2c7c9a0fe2

Cheers

 

[Diesel80]

Considered gas and electric?

I use a 2400W OTS element to heat mash water (full volume BIAB doubles - 61.5L)
I aim for 52L post boil (yep top up back to 61.5 after mash).

I have an Italian style spiral burner which I fire up in tandem with the OTS element. Gets to boil easy.

In keeping with the thread title, I have since ordered a new gas hose and 0-207Kpa reg for gas bottle.

I will be ramping to boil rapidly no?
Once there:
I can dial the burner right back, or if I half put the lid on, can just run the 2400W and get a nice steady boil once boiling.

I also have redundancy / backup plan if the power goes out, the gas burner can handle the boil solo easy if needed.

Food for thought.

Cheers,
D80

 

[Fylp]

I have thought of that. We have a very similar system. My concern would be the gas heat on the electrics. My other concern is having the lid half on for the boil, my initial want for power started from wondering if enough of stuff that needs to escape does. I mean does it drip back off the lid? I could be paranoid.

 

[seamad]

Insulating your pot will help with the boil as well, used aeroflex ? on mine. 12mm black foam stuff rated to 120C from air con/ refrigeration supplier, glued on base and sides. ( obviously no gas with this )

 

[Diesel80]

I have thought of that. We have a very similar system. My concern would be the gas heat on the electrics. My other concern is having the lid half on for the boil, my initial want for power started from wondering if enough of stuff that needs to escape does. I mean does it drip back off the lid? I could be paranoid.

The electrics with OTS elements are up at top of the pot. Gas, unless flaming uncontrollably up the side of the pot, are nowhere near the electrics (about 50-60CM away).

as for the volume of stuff escaping, the way the wort circulates running a OTS and gas burner it would evap up the opening where the element hangs over the edge. Seems to go in a circuit.
I reckon the stuff needing to escape will. Either way I don't put the lid on but could if I wanted to just use the electric element (if gas runs out).

Cheers,
D80