Hot Box...

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Cocko

Oh Dear..
Joined
17/4/08
Messages
5,546
Reaction score
990
Location
Kangaroo Ground, VIC
Friends,

I am turning a dead fridge into a "hotbox" for ales! it fits 2x 30L fementers!

I am going to run a fridgemate to control a bulb or maybe two... I was thinking the bulbs that run in those 3 way bathroom fittings that are a light, fan and heater... Bulbs being the heater.

Will these bulbs cause "light strike" or is it only UV [sun] that will damage my brew??

Is light bulbs not the right choice, should I be using something else to control the ambient temp of the space to ensure both fermenters are controlled??

OR will the exothermic result of both in such a small space not really need such an elaborate control??

All advice is appreciated, as always!!

Cheer
Cocko
 
Those would be overkill imho. Years ago when i like to ferment at 21 degrees with tins i used a temp regulate wooden bow with a 60 watt light bulb to heat and it was fine. A fridge, yeast activity and the thermal mass of the beer will not need alot to keep it warm.
 
Cocko

Head over to your nearest pet store that deals with reptiles. They sell ceramic bulb holders with Edison fittings. You can get one already wired with a cord for around $20.

For around another $20 you can pick up an infra red reptile bulb or for a bit more (around $50) a ceramic heat bulb which emits no light at all. Just a matter of rigging it up to your Fridgemate. Works well over winter.

You can also try reVox's idea of the regular lightbulb covered with a terracotta pot.

Warren -

Edit: Inserted a pic of mine.

DSC01505.JPG
 
Friends,
OR will the exothermic result of both in such a small space not really need such an elaborate control??

In my experience, unless you are dealing with seriously cold outside temps, as long as you pitch the yeast at around the correct temp, the exothermic effect of the fermentation will help to keep the temp up. That said, its probably a lot safer to have a backup plan.

I like Warren's suggestion though. After all, keeping the temp in the renge we are after is exactly what these reptile bulbs are designed to do.
 
Yeah agreed, they don't really play a huge part for the first 2-3 days of fermentation. When the beer's at high krausen it generates more than enough heat. When the head drops my beers seem to struggle to hold optimum (say 18 degree) temps, particularly in nut-freezing Melbourne winters. :blink:

The reptile bulb cabinets are also good for blowing up Wyeast packets, keeping starters warm or just keeping one's garage looking like a seedy red-light area. B)

Warren -
 
I have an little oil heater to put in an old fridge for brewing ales - haven't used it yet - Ill have to take some pics. Anyone used one of these as a heat source?
 
Yeah agreed, they don't really play a huge part for the first 2-3 days of fermentation. When the beer's at high krausen it generates more than enough heat. When the head drops my beers seem to struggle to hold optimum (say 18 degree) temps, particularly in nut-freezing Melbourne winters. :blink:

VERY good point. Its once the wort gets to around 1.020-25 that problems start occurring so that's when the bulb contraption will be really handy. IMO if pitching rates are high you can usually blast through this barrier but if not you can easily get stuck at 1.020. I had this happen a few years back in 3-4 brews in a row. Then I realised that my problem was fermenting in ambient temps in the middle of winter (albeit a relatively balmy Sydney winter... :p ) with only 1L starters that hadn't been stepped up.
 
The best way to heat a fridge like that is with a 40w bulb painted black hooked up to a thermostat.
Another alternative is a condensate heater from a switchboard.
They are compact and generally come with a thermostat already.
If you know any industrial sparkys they may be able to help you out.
 
In my experience, unless you are dealing with seriously cold outside temps, as long as you pitch the yeast at around the correct temp, the exothermic effect of the fermentation will help to keep the temp up. That said, its probably a lot safer to have a backup plan.

This is something I've been wondering about - if this "exothermic effect" means the wort temp is a couple of degrees higher than ambient, should we be setting our ambient temps to the temp we want, or a couple of degrees less than what we want, once fermentation has commenced? i.e. if I want my ale fermenting at 19 degrees, should I be aiming for an ambient temp of, say, 17 degrees?

Cheers
 
Yes, Julez for the first two days of fermentation that's what I do.

Warren -
 
I have an little oil heater to put in an old fridge for brewing ales - haven't used it yet - Ill have to take some pics. Anyone used one of these as a heat source?

I've had a this $29.00 Bunning's one (bottom right corner of the pic) in old wardrobe I insulated for a couple of months now, since I got my marching orders out of the laundry :( . It's set pretty low and the built in thermostat has been keeping temp at 18-20 degrees with outside temps down to zero :) .
Only seems to turn on every hour or so for a couple of minutes so shouldn't be costing too much to run :unsure: . I use it to help keep the temp up on bottles up for a couple of weeks after bottling and I can fit 6 fermenters in it B) .
Image014__2_.jpg
 
I actually tried this out last night. Purchased a terracotta pot and a lamp fitting, enlarged the hole in the bottom of the pot, and installed the lamp fitting.

I thought i'd see how much heat the little sucker could generate, so in an act of stupidity I installed a 100W bulb and switched her on.

Half an hour later and a lovely smell of burning plastic was emanating through the house.

Thankfully it acted like it's own fuse and the bulb had blown. Boy was that pot hot!

The lamp fitting was destroyed as well. Mmmm, melty.

Might try a lower wattage next time :)

Sam
 
Hey Dingodidit,

Can you post a clear picture of that oil heater you say you bought from Bunning?

Cheers
 
Mentioned this in a few other threads.

Just connect your temp controller to a hairdryer. You can pinch SWMBO's or pick up an el cheapo from a 2 bob shop. Air circulation and heating in the same unit.
 
I bought a regular $20 outdoor light fitting from bunnings which comes with an opaque glass/steel cover and screwed it to the roof of my fridge. If the bulb explodes, I don't get glass everywhere. I have also recently covered it with ally foil (we shun the light!) just in case my off flavours have been somehow caused by it. The light bulb is 40watts and is on 24/7 and seems to produce enough heat to keep it around 20 degrees. The fridge is connected to the fridgemate and comes on if its too hot. I'll take some photos in case anyone is interested.
 
I built a "light box", with one hinged side (a door) into which I installed a light batten and a 40w globe.

Cord comes through the door and then plug that into the temp controller. Place fermenter on top of box and there is your very own heater!
 
Hey Dingodidit,

Can you post a clear picture of that oil heater you say you bought from Bunning?

Cheers

Sorry re-the pic rotation not real savy posting here yet. Anyway it's about 30cm long and high still kicking with a 12 month warranty. :ph34r: Click on pic for more detail, now back to the footy............

P6270020.JPG

PS Go Bronco's
 
Back
Top