Home Grown Hop Recipe

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

MarkBastard

Well-Known Member
Joined
19/5/08
Messages
3,857
Reaction score
49
I have picked some of my home grown Chinook and want to do a brew this weekend using the hops. I would like some feedback on my recipe.

Batch Size: 20.00 L
Efficiency: 69.0

Ingredients
Amount Item Type % or IBU
3500.00 gm Pale Malt, Ale (Barrett Burston) Grain 74.5 %
1200.00 gm Munich Malt II Grain 25.5 %
20.00 gm Chinook [13.00%] (60 min) Hops 31.4 IBU
20.00 gm Chinook [8.00%] (10 min) Hops 7.0 IBU
20.00 gm Chinook [8.00%] (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1 Pkgs American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) Yeast-Ale

Questions in particular.
1 - Thoughts on the malt profile? I want something more interesting than just pale ale malt. I wanted a sort of soft IPA malt profile. It needs to not be too basic but not be too complex either as this is all about the hops. Calculated at 5% ABV.
2 - I can bitter with Chinook, Columbus, Amarillo, Cascade, Willamette or EKG. I decided with Chinook to keep it 'all chinook' but if you think another hop would be more suited for the bittering, perhaps being more neutral, then I can do that. Only from the above list though. Thoughts on the IBU of the bittering addition?
3 - I am planning on wet hopping with whatever is on the bine this Saturday and ripe, and using the already picked / dried / frozen flowers as well. Would you use the dried ones first as a flavour addition or leave them to last? My assumption is the fresher hops should go in last.
4 - Can you 'dry hop' with 'wet hops' and if so is this recommended or would you think due to chances of infection it's better to dry hop with the already dried and frozen flowers, as the fact they've been in the freezer for two weeks should at least kill some bugs?
 
Looks yummy. Why is there an AA difference between 60min and 10min addition? I'd also put a 20min in too, to give it a little more rounded out flavour. Yum!

Cheers - Mike
 
Looks yummy. Why is there an AA difference between 60min and 10min addition? I'd also put a 20min in too, to give it a little more rounded out flavour. Yum!

Cheers - Mike

I put an AA difference in to differentiate between the US T90 pellet Chinook and my home grown flowers. I imagine my flowers will be much less AA.

Also for late additions I just chucked in a 10 and 0 for now, realistically it'll depend on how much I harvest. I would say the above is an absolute minimum. As I'll be using wet hops there will be no real way to know the dry weight or the AA content.
 
One of the brewing challenges last year for the Adelaide Mash Brewers was a single hop challenge.

Several brewers picked a different hop and we all brewed using the same grist and late hop additions. Same yeast, same OG, same mash temp.

Its what i will be doing this year to try out my homegrown hops although i did use chinook last year in an APA/IPA that got some very positive feedback (it used vienna instead of munich and had a dash of amber as well)

Anyway, single hop challenge rules were -

80% Ale malt
15% Munich 1
5% Caramunich

WY 1056 or USO5 (dry or liquid)

x g @ 60 mins
1g/L @ 20 mins
1.5g/L @ 0 mins

OG 1.050
IBU 35

Single infusion mash 66C.

One of the standouts in this comp (for me anyway) was BigHoltys POR. Fresh season POR flowers as opposed to pellets - really opened my eyes to the possibility of POR as a late addition hop and i will be doing this with my home-grown POR.

Hope that helps.
DrSmurto
 
Doc, I was thinking of using a bit of caramunich. Was 50/50. What would you recommend? I based my grain bill on what James Squire IPA supposedly has. I wanted to go for that similar malt profile.
 
If you are after the JSIPA malt profile then according to Screwy its just ale malt and munich - Linky

So no need for any caramunich.

I add crystal to my APAs but not my IPAs.

But..... you said you were aiming for 5% so you are in APA territory and if you want that profile you will need to add some crystal IMO.

Confused? :huh:
 
I'm currently Ale 75% Munich 25%.

Would you recommend Ale 75%, Munich 20%, Crystal 5%?
 
Cheers big ears.

So I'll go with...

3500gm Pale Malt, Ale (BB) (74.5%)
1000gm Munich (21.3%)
200gm Caramunich (4.3%)

It may seem like I'm rounding the weights too much but I did only want a touch under 5% caramunich.
 
I think that looks great Mark. Though I would up the hops. But that is my answer to everything.

That is similar to my IPA grists, I usually just add a dash of caraaroma for my crystal plus a dash of wheat.

If you are going to keg, I say add wet-hops post ferment for a few days. It is a very interesting flavour you get from them, very different, not for everyone, but I like it. If you smash a hop into your glass of beer and stir it around, that is pretty similar to what you will get (just in case you didn't know).
 
I think that looks great Mark. Though I would up the hops. But that is my answer to everything.

That is similar to my IPA grists, I usually just add a dash of caraaroma for my crystal plus a dash of wheat.

If you are going to keg, I say add wet-hops post ferment for a few days. It is a very interesting flavour you get from them, very different, not for everyone, but I like it. If you smash a hop into your glass of beer and stir it around, that is pretty similar to what you will get (just in case you didn't know).

Would you up the bittering hops though? The late hops I've put in are just place holders, in reality I am getting to be putting all of my hops in there probably, well all the ones that are ripe on the day. Should be at least the equiv of 40g dry for late additions.

When you say post ferment you mean dry hop in the keg yeah?
 
Not really suggesting up the bittering hops of known IBU. 31-ish IBU is a decent starting place for a wet hop IPA to give you room if there is more (maybe up a touch). I meant to up the flavour/aroma hops so you get a good blast of your homegrown goodness.

I did not mean hop in the keg, just mentioned it as in 'kegs vs bottles' re: the infection thing. It should be great if you get it cold and all drank up in a decently short period.

If you can be bothered, I suggest crash chill, rack and dry hop warm for maybe 5 days and perhaps consider using a large mesh bag. Whole hops can make transferring from vessel to vessel a nightmare. At least that is my experience. I brewed a wet hop beer easter weekend and it added literally hours just to get it into my fermenters. I was not a happy brewer at all that evening.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top