Ghetto immersion chiller.

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An I don't something wrong here? I usually cool then whirlpool, should I be doing it the other way around? Is the whirlpool even necessary? Might save time in new day if not.
 
I guess it depends on your chiller method and trub cone formation.

I cool then whirpool due to having to agitate the chiller to improve it's efficiency. However, using a keggle, I never get a good trub cone and tend to drain a fair bit of crap anyway. I used to have a whirlpool attachment on my chiller like Jamil's, running off a LBP and this had the benefit of improving heat exchange and concentrating the trub in the centre of the keggle. I'd start recircing 10mins before the end of boil to sterilise, then cover and chill. I'd then switch the pump off when down to temp and give it 10 mins to settle, then drain. This meant I could keep the kettle covered for the whole chilling process. I'm planning on using this method on my 4V but by using a whirlpool inlet in the keggle wall.

I'd be keen to hear if anyone uses a whirlpool port on their kettle and what height, direction etc to place it?
 
Back to the OP and in light of the current chillin thread:

  • How many metres of annealed copper would be reasonable - does it come in a standard range of lengths?
  • What diameter?
  • How much from Bunnings all up including the fittings on each end of the tube?
  • How did you attach the fittings, do you need a special tool or soldering, or are there "snap on" fittings available?

If not too exxie I might give chilling a go as the water supply is a lot cooler here in Mexico than it was North of the Border, and we have no water restrictions ATM thanks to the mighty Barrington Tops. Can always sell the unit if I end up going back to NC.

Edit, yes I DAS and would this be what I'm looking for?
 
That coil will be enough for a FSM chiller.

Standard garden hose will slip over the end. Use hose clamps and garden hose fittings. If your worried about cost then cut 6 inches off each end of your neaighbours hose. You will only go to jail if you cut more than 8".

Dont be scared Bribie. Even you can make one.
 
Has anyone considered collecting the water for the next brew.
I was planning on using some of the hot water for cleaning and reusing left overs via pond pump next time just adding back what was used for cleaning.

Rich
 
When I was on tank water I would feed the output back into the tank.

If you have some where to store it, do it.
 
Right, just hose and clamps. Thanks for that DBS - I might even go better homes and gardens and get them with wingnuts :)

Would the annealed pipe bend ok (thinking of birdnest) without filling with sand?
 
Has anyone considered collecting the water for the next brew.
Yep! Used to do it all the time. I filtered the chilling water on it's way to the IC & diverted the output to the HLT, or MLT. A bit of heat & it's ready for the next dough-in. If you continue to do this, each successive AG brew ends-up only taking an average of 3 hours, rather than the usual 5-8. I used the final IC output for cleaning-up.

It makes for a bitch of a brew-day (ie. LONG!), but if you're organized, it's well worth the effort.
 
When ever I see anyone cutting 150mm off a garden hose, they usually also have an empty coke bottle in their hand.
 
Glot said:
When ever I see anyone cutting 150mm off a garden hose, they usually also have an empty coke bottle in their hand.
You should hit them up for the the hose fittings
 
Bribie G said:
Would the annealed pipe bend ok (thinking of birdnest) without filling with sand?
I bent mine around an old pulley for the tighter bends.

Rich
 

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