Getting very close to AG...

[Screwtop]

After your 60 min mash you re-circulate the wort a few times back into the mash until the wort runs clear. You then start draining this into your keggle to boil.

Edit. This re-circulating is called sparging.

Best re-edit to be factual!

Screwy

 

[vic45]

slc, a 19 litre big W pot lid fits that keggle perfectly.

 

[Hugh Jarse]

I purchased the same 4 burner recently and had my first brew on it the other day. Was quite impressed for the coin spent. Make sure you factor in some time to dial in the burner flame on each ring and away you go. Took me about 15 mins to get the rings where I was happy with them. Make sure you protect it from the wind though, they are very touchy with wind, a strong fart and they will blow all over the place! Having said that, I bought 25l to strike temp in 35 mins and then 28l (added another couple of litres) up to the rolling boil in another 25 mins. Whole operation I used 2.4kgs of gas.

 

[jakethesnake559]

Hi mate,
Duck up to Clark Rubber and grab a length of pinchweld seal like the pic below and run it around that sharp edge on your keggle.
It'll keep you from ripping your bag and also get you a better seal against whatever you end up using for a lid.
Go full BIAB :beerbang: .
Enjoy!!
Jake.

 

[slcmorro]

I reckon Vic45 has done a cracking job with his donated keggle. The edges are all smooth on that lip. Will be catching up with him and others tomorrow night

 

[manticle]

Edit. This re-circulating is called sparging.

No it isn't.

 

[Hammo7]

I think your first approach will work well.
mash in the esky, then drain into the kettle. I have done this a couple of times for larger batches before I built my 3v with herms.
Put about 5 litres less the required volume of water in the esky (about 5 degrees above desired strike temp), bang on the lid and leave for about 5-10 minutes. This will kind of pre-heat your esky and you will lose less temp over the mash period.
Once at strike temp, pop in the sheet, then grain, good stir, re-check temp, top up with the 5 litres hot or cold water to bring to mash temp, bang the lid on again. cover with a blanket and leave for an hour. (check it at half time if you really want to and give it a bit of a stir, but you will just lose more temp).
Once mash is finished, give it a good stir, let sit for a couple of minutes. Leave the grain in the esky with the bag and slowly drain a couple of litres out. gently pour this back in not to stir up the liquid (vorlauf). This is a full volume mash, the grain bed will not compact as well as a normal mash, it will easily stir up with the liquid you pour back in - you don't have to do this step, but it just helps for a little bit clearer wort.
Slowly drain into your kettle and start to boil. You can always pour some hot water (80-85 degree) over the drained grain to get a bit more volume into the kettle if you are short.

Looking at your kettle, I would not try to BIAB in there because when pulling the bag (or the square in your case), it will literally go pear shaped and be very hard to squeeze though the top and you will have wort running down the sides of the keg. - Been there, done that!
Hope it all makes sense.
All in all, this will be your first attempt, so don't stress, get to know your gear and change your process to suit you.
Cheers,
Hammo.

 

[Steve]

No it isn't.

There you go. You learn something new everyday. Always thought it was all the same thing. My mistake.

 

[stm]

In laymans terms, can you explain why you use the manifold?

Wort clarification

Seen as we are being pedantic, the reason you use a manifold (or false bottom or stainless steel braid) is to drain the wort more efficiently (ie faster) and to avoid channelling.

The reason you recirculate is for wort clarification.

 

[Yob]

In laymans terms, can you explain why you use the manifold?


Seen as we are being pedantic, the reason you use a manifold (or false bottom or stainless steel braid) is to drain the wort more efficiently (ie faster) and to avoid channelling.

The reason you recirculate is for wort clarification.

I recirculate through my manifold

I dont really use it to drain 'faster' as I fly sparge so liquor in = ~1lt p/m and wort out = 1lt p/m so speed doesnt really come into play at all. (For my set up)

also, just because you use a False bottom or manifold doesnt mean you cant get channelling.

 

[slcmorro]

My burner arrived today, the heavy fucker of a thing!

 

[wbosher]

My burner arrived today, the heavy fucker of a thing!

Pictures or it didn't happen

 

[slcmorro]

Your wish is my command...

 

[wbosher]

So you're pretty much set to go then?

 

[slcmorro]

Just about. Gotta get me some grain and make the hole in the keggle slightly larger so the chiller will fit, and I'll be doing my first brew next week

 

[yum beer]

I doubt you'll even turn that outer ring on.

Tossed up buying the 4 ring but went the 3....boils 35 litres no problem in a keggle.

Would have got a 4 burner if the price was good, I paid the same for mine as you got yours.

Brew hard young man.

 

[wbosher]

So after all the suggestions here, how you going to do it? Straight BIAB, or some other method?

 

[slcmorro]

I'm set on BIAB in the esky as my mash tun for now. Might look into a false bottom later on down the track

 

[slcmorro]

I figured someone might be interested to see my ghetto setup...

I now have my patented keggle stand in working order. If anyone wants one, PM me and we can arrange a price. Super high tech, you'll be mind blown when you see it...



Three bricks, and old bike rim and the 4 ring burner. I told you, this shit is as high tech as it comes. Yes, the bricks are kiln fired so they *shouldn't* go shattering/crumbling on me, sending litres of scalding wort all over the garage floor.

 

[yum beer]

Let me know when the Mark II comes out, I really want the flexibilty of adjustable bricks.
Or is there an option?