Fridgemate Temp Controller

[ironxmortlock]

I just received my Fridgemate from Mashmaster and got straight into getting it assembled.

However, the directions that came with the unit don't match with the number of connection on the unit itself. On the unit there is an extra connection.

Here are some photos:

Here's the instructions

Here's the unit (note the extra connection point).

Any ideas on how to wire this up? Does closed point (number 3 on the unit) just mean I put nothing in there and close it off

Thanks,

M :beer:

 

[Screwtop]

I just received my Fridgemate from Mashmaster and got straight into getting it assembled.

However, the directions that came with the unit don't match with the number of connection on the unit itself. On the unit there is an extra connection.

Here are some photos:

Here's the instructions

Here's the unit (note the extra connection point).

Any ideas on how to wire this up? Does closed point (number 3 on the unit) just mean I put nothing in there and close it off

Thanks,

M :beer:

To me it looks like there has been another relay contact added (normally closed) so just add 1 to the connection point numbers 3,4,5,6 of the instruction sheet diagram. The new relay is single pole with two contacts one normally open and one normally closed. If you wanted to switch a load OFF according to a set temp then you would use contacts 2 & 3 as per the usit diag, to switch the load on contacts 1 & 2. The designation of contact No.2 is Co Point or Common, this is where you connect the wire which you want switched to the load (either switched on C1 or Off C3).

In a nutshell connect the Active and Neutral to terminals 6 & 7 and the probe to terminals 4 & 5 then connect the neutral of the load cable (cable with socket to plug fridge into) to the same terminal (6 or 7) as you have connected the neutral of the power cable (cable with plug to plug into power point) to. Next run a jumper (short length of wire use active colour code) from the terminal where the Active wire from the power (cable with plug to plug into power point) cable is connected (6 or 7) to the Co Point. Connect the Active wire of the load cable (cable with socket to plug fridge into) to the switched terminal 1. Common the Earth wire of the power cable to the Earth wire of the Load cable.

Hope this makes graphical sense in literal terms for you.


Disclaimer: This work should only be performed by a licensed electrician

 

[ironxmortlock]

To me it looks like there has been another relay contact added (normally closed) so just add 1 to the connection point numbers 3,4,5,6 of the instruction sheet diagram. The new relay is single pole with two contacts one normally open and one normally closed. If you wanted to switch a load OFF according to a set temp then you would use contacts 2 & 3 as per the usit diag, to switch the load on contacts 1 & 2. The designation of contact No.2 is Co Point or Common, this is where you connect the wire which you want switched to the load (either switched on C1 or Off C3).

In a nutshell connect the Active and Neutral to terminals 6 & 7 and the probe to terminals 4 & 5 then connect the neutral of the load cable (cable with socket to plug fridge into) to the same terminal (6 or 7) as you have connected the neutral of the power cable (cable with plug to plug into power point) to. Next run a jumper (short length of wire use active colour code) from the terminal where the Active wire from the power (cable with plug to plug into power point) cable is connected (6 or 7) to the Co Point. Connect the Active wire of the load cable (cable with socket to plug fridge into) to the switched terminal 1. Common the Earth wire of the power cable to the Earth wire of the Load cable.

Hope this makes graphical sense in literal terms for you.
Disclaimer: This work should only be performed by a licensed electrician

Thanks for that!

So just to confirm. I don't plug anything into terminal 3.

I plug the brown wire from the power to terminal 6 and 2.

I plug the brown wire from the plug to terminal 1.

Right?

 

[sama]

Thanks for that!

So just to confirm. I don't plug anything into terminal 3.

I plug the brown wire from the power to terminal 6 and 2.

I plug the brown wire from the plug to terminal 1.

Right?

very dodgy of them sending 2 different drawings ,they should get there asses kicked for that...

 

[BrissyBrew]

I do apologise these changes were made at the factor and I was not notified. I will update the printed instructions to reflect terminals 1 and 3 instead of 1 and 2 for these new models.

Frank.

 

[sama]

I do apologise these changes were made at the factor and I was not notified. I will update the printed instructions to reflect terminals 1 and 3 instead of 1 and 2 for these new models.

Frank.

good stuff frank :icon_cheers:

 

[edoeven]

I got one of these a couple of days ago, same deal, I ignored pin3 (assumed it would switch "off" when fridgemate said "on"), tested before plugging into fridge and all worked without probs

 

[InCider]

And they are bloody tough! I managed to knock mine from the top of the fridge onto the concrete floor. It didn't skip a beat.

 

[Screwtop]

Thanks for that!

So just to confirm. I don't plug anything into terminal 3.

I plug the brown wire from the power to terminal 6 and 2.

I plug the brown wire from the plug to terminal 1.

Right?

YES!

Disclaimer: The following should only be performed buy a licensed electrician. I have a ticket which allows me to play with Megavolts, but not with 240V. You should have an electrician perform this work.

If the Brown Wire is the Active: Brown wire from PLUG to terminal 6, use a short length of Brown wire as a jumper between terminal 6 and terminal 2. Brown wire from SOCKET to terminal 1.

If the Blue Wire is the Neutral: Blue wire from PLUG and Blue Wire from SOCKET to terminal 7

Earth wires from both PLUG and SOCKET connected using a terminal connector

Have a look at the circuit, terminals 1 & 2 are the normally open contacts, really does not matter which way round the Brown Jumper and Brown wire from the SOCKET are connected to these terminals. I simply used pin 2 for the Active (Brown) jumper out of convention given the giagram.

Disclaimer: Wiring of this nature should only be performed buy a licensed electrician.

 

[InCider]

YES!

I have a ticket which allows me to play with Megavolts

I don't so I had stood on a milkcrate from afar when it went live :huh: after quadruple checking the diagrams!

We're tough in Landsborough Mansborough. :lol:

In my mind, and being no more electrically inclined than most laymen, it would be OK for most of us up this kit, but there are some who just don't have the savvy to get this kind of thing correct. Get it checked by someone who knows what they're doing or someone who can do CPR! (after they have terminated the current!)

InCider.

 

[ironxmortlock]

YES!

If the Brown Wire is the Active: Brown wire from PLUG to terminal 6, use a short length of Brown wire as a jumper between terminal 6 and terminal 2. Brown wire from SOCKET to terminal 1.

If the Blue Wire is the Neutral: Blue wire from PLUG and Blue Wire from SOCKET to terminal 7

Earth wires from both PLUG and SOCKET connected using a terminal connector

Have a look at the circuit, terminals 1 & 2 are the normally open contacts, really does not matter which way round the Brown Jumper and Brown wire from the SOCKET are connected to these terminals. I simply used pin 2 for the Active (Brown) jumper out of convention given the giagram.

Sorry for the delay, I went away for the weekend.

I see your point.

However I now have two contradictory methods of connecting this up. There's the way you explained it to me and Frank's method. I understand your method, Frank however has told me that I should replace the number 2 in the diagram with number 3.

I do apologise these changes were made at the factor and I was not notified. I will update the printed instructions to reflect terminals 1 and 3 instead of 1 and 2 for these new models. Frank.

That would mean I have the active wire from the power going to terminals 1 and 6 and the active wire from the plug going to terminal 3. If I did that, wouldn't mean that the switch depicted in the circuit diagram on the unit would never make a circuit?

I'm confused. :huh:

 

[troydo]

just wired mine up like screwtop said to today, seems to be working fine....

 

[Screwtop]

If I did that, wouldn't mean that the switch depicted in the circuit diagram on the unit would never make a circuit?

Proves you understand the circuit diagram provided!

 

[ironxmortlock]

Thanks for your help Screwtop!

It's working fine. Sorry about all the questioning, as I'm dealing with 240V I just wanted to make absolutely sure.

M

 

[Andyd]

I agree with Screwtop - the work should be done by a licensed sparky...

If you are going to do it yourself, make sure you have no copper "peeking" out of the unit (i.e. cut the copper short enough that you can get the insulation into the unit's "vents".

Also make sure you do connect the active line to the relay, and not neutral - that little beauty has caught people out in the past! (yes, there is a difference, even for AC!)

Andy

 

[BrissyBrew]

updated diagram.

View attachment FridgeMateColour.pdf

 

[Lady B]

updated diagram.

I just had a look at Mashmaster.com as I was thinking of buying one of these and looked at the wiring diagram on that site. It's still showing the "old" diagram. See this link:
http://mashmaster.com.au/p/365439/fridgema...roller-kit.html and then click where it says to 'click here to download the instructions'.

Shame they're out of stock.

 

[pokolbinguy]

Shame they're out of stock.

Ross at Craftbrewer has them.

Pok

 

[InCider]

buy buy buy buy buy buy buy buy buy buy buy buy buy buy buy buy buy buy

it'll change your brewing life.

 

[joecast]

it'll change your brewing life.

wow, knew they were good but??? mine'll be here this week. woo-hoo!