Fitting Camlocks To Plate Chiller

[mintsauce]

As far as we've found the pressure of the cooling water straight from tap and the restriction provided by the output hose it sufficient, we tend to rotate the chiller around a bit at the start of use to allow all the air out (the wort flows for the final 10 minutes of the boil and has been rorated sufficiently to allow air out, when the cooling water is turned on we rotate further, the speed which the output temp drops is amazing tho).

We don't have an issue once it's flowing (the cooling water) with air - the flow is sufficient yet slow (and the water is nice and hot, kept for cleaning).

Regarding the cleaning: each to his own, the barbs were apparently welded in as it's more sanitary - but then as said a small amount of wort gets in between.
I far prefer the screwed in fittings - each time they have been dismantled (every 6 brews or so) there's been nothing to speak of, we use plenty thread tape and it's tight enough without being too tight.

p.s: I showed a local brewer how to dismantle his fermenter taps as he didn't know they came apart!

Cool, thanks for the explanation.
I could see that you wort went in bottom, out top. I was thinking of air in the cooling water side if in top, out bottom. That air could reduce effective surface area covered by water. That is where I was thinking a tap on the cooling water outlet to restrict it to keep it full of cooling water. With the garden tap set at a higher pressure than that let out by the chiller plate tap, it should stay full of cooling water. At least that is what I ws thinking. I often get told I think too much.

 

[Malted]

As far as we've found the pressure of the cooling water straight from tap and the restriction provided by the output hose it sufficient, we tend to rotate the chiller around a bit at the start of use to allow all the air out (the wort flows for the final 10 minutes of the boil and has been rorated sufficiently to allow air out, when the cooling water is turned on we rotate further, the speed which the output temp drops is amazing tho).

We don't have an issue once it's flowing (the cooling water) with air - the flow is sufficient yet slow (and the water is nice and hot, kept for cleaning).

Regarding the cleaning: each to his own, the barbs were apparently welded in as it's more sanitary - but then as said a small amount of wort gets in between.
I far prefer the screwed in fittings - each time they have been dismantled (every 6 brews or so) there's been nothing to speak of, we use plenty thread tape and it's tight enough without being too tight.

p.s: I showed a local brewer how to dismantle his fermenter taps as he didn't know they came apart!

Thank you for the explanation. It's good to hear from someone who knows the tricks.

 

[adryargument]

My mistake, I forgot threaded fittings were the best sanitary option <_<

Moving forward... threaded or nipple fitting aside, you are going to have to clean it after each use. The chillout were ,as I understand, changed FROM threaded TO nipple to reduce the risk of infection.

Hmm,

I don't even bother cleaning my chiller unit.
Last 10 minutes of boil i turn it up a bit and recirculate the wort through the chiller side to kill any nasties.

However once i'm done i do always give it a rinse out.