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johnm64

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Hello to all, fantastic site with great info :super:
My first brew (Coopers Dark Ale)was started on 19/4 and was bottled on the 26th.
Followed a lot of the suggestions from this site.
Except one, I used white 1kg sugar.How will this affect final out come regarding taste.
When I bottled I used carb drops,1per 375ml stubbie.
I have a lot of Neighbours who brew and some use dextrose,some use white sugar.
Conflicting info. :unsure:

It tastes alright to me.
One quicstion is if my bottles decide to go boom,is there a time span as to when this may happen.

johnm :icon_cheers:
 
One quicstion is if my bottles decide to go boom,is there a time span as to when this may happen.

This time is directly proportional to how long it takes for you to become confident they won't go boom :p
 
Hey John white sugar (sucrose) is composed of glucose and fructose. The glucose (or dextrose) will ferment out while the fructose wont be touched by the yeast. So people claim that using too much white sugar will produce a cidery type taste to the final brew, I guess this is the fructose they are tasting.

Don't worry too much as some recipes call for white sugar and some people, as you have found, prefer to use it over dextrose (though that might be for financial reasons, dextrose is about $4.50 per kilo). I'd suggest trying dextrose in your next brew and dicide for yourself what your happy brewing with.

Better yet replace some or all of that with malt extract for a more fuller flavoured and bodied beer. The coopers brew ewnhancers sold in supermarkets are great for this if there isn't a HBS near you. In the end of the day, try different things and go with what works best for you.

Dave
 
Welcome johnm
soon youll be after a March pump, millmaster 3 x 100lt stainless vessels and the list goes on....
Enjoy your brewing and using AHB for advice, you will with time possibly be able to brew beer far nicer than most commercial beer ;)
 
Beer is made from malt, hops and yeast with a lot of water. Avoid using sugar, it thins the body of your beer and will add a flavour that is often described as cidery. Many new brewers do use sugar (and many old kit brewers do too) as that's what the back of the tin says to use. Brew lots of beers, do lots of research, try different additives for your kilo and you can decide what to use.

A very good combination is 500gms dried malt extract (DME) and 500 gms dextrose. Too much malt and your beers may become too sweet. Experienced brewers know how to counteract this, but newer kit brewers can create good beers using 50/50 malt and dextrose.

Many neighbours (and other well meaning brewers) are stuck in the rut of using sugar and aiming for the cheapest stubby of beer possible. Using better quality ingredients will increase your cost per brew, but the beer will have much better flavour and will still be much much cheaper than any commercial beer you can buy. All members on this forum will agree the extra cost is well worth while. You can draw on all the combined knowledge of the forum members rather than the often stuck in a rut sugar based brewer. Yes, you will have conflicting opinions, but the great thing about this hobby, you can listen to all sides, then try each side and decide for yourself.

To avoid bottle bombs:

Take great care with cleanliness and sanitation. Many infections will slowly chew away at the remaining long chain molecules in your beer (the bits that give malty flavours) and slowly increase carbonation, destroy the good flavours and produce nasty flavours. Eventually the bottles go bang.

Don't bottle early. Don't use the airlock as a guide to bottling. Use your hydrometer. Check that the specific gravity is stable over at least two-three days before bottling. Keep your brew at the correct temperature, if the temp drops too low, your yeast gets sluggish. Don't rush your brew, many of the kits say bottle in seven days. Your beer will be fine to leave in the fermenter for a fortnight before bottling (so long as you are not cooking it at 26 degrees on a heat mat.) Leaving your brew longer in the fermenter helps to make the beer cleaner flavoured.

Use the correct amount of priming sugar.

Also, to create a better flavoured beer, ferment at the correct range for your yeast. Generally this is 18-20 degrees for an ale. Many tin instructions say up to 26-28 which is way too high.
 
Also, to create a better flavoured beer, ferment at the correct range for your yeast. Generally this is 18-20 degrees for an ale. Many tin instructions say up to 26-28 which is way too high.

Yet again, more priceless info for us rookie brewers.

Further to the comment above, I set up and esky and frozen bottle unit and have kept my last brew between 17 - 20 degrees. Going by my hydrometer readings I'm pretty sure fermentation is almost finished, however, I have to go away for the weekend and won't be able to swap frozen bottles.
What effect will the temp rising for a day or so have on the brew?
I intend to drop a couple of frozen bottles in the esky as I walk out the door so it mite only be one day, two at the most that the temp will rise, say to 26 degrees.
Would it be better to put extra frozen bottles in to drop the temp a bit lower to extend the time taken for the temp to rebound up and then when I get home continue on as per usual?

Cheers,
TPD
 
Further to the comment above, I set up and esky and frozen bottle unit and have kept my last brew between 17 - 20 degrees. Going by my hydrometer readings I'm pretty sure fermentation is almost finished, however, I have to go away for the weekend and won't be able to swap frozen bottles.
What effect will the temp rising for a day or so have on the brew?
I intend to drop a couple of frozen bottles in the esky as I walk out the door so it mite only be one day, two at the most that the temp will rise, say to 26 degrees.
Would it be better to put extra frozen bottles in to drop the temp a bit lower to extend the time taken for the temp to rebound up and then when I get home continue on as per usual?

If you are reasonably sure that the fermentation has completed, letting the temp rise too much won't affect it any more than if it was sitting in the bottles at the same temp. People always seem to forget about temps of the brew in the bottles. High temps even in storage ie bottles, can reduce the quality & shelf life of a brew.

personaly I would go the way of dropping extra bottles into your cooler as the lower temp will only slow the yeast down and it should be sitting about right when you get home when you bottle.
 
Yeah, dropping the temp lower than what the yeast can handle may result in a halted ferment which I wouldn't recommend. I wouldn't be too worries about it warming up as long as its within a few degrees of 20'C - this will have the effect of giving the yeast a chance to finish off anything they didn't get first time around...often referred to as a 'diacytel rest' [spelling?].

If you move the fermented/esky setup to the coolest place in your house [I use my wardrobe here at uni] it should retain the cold long enough so it'll still be cool when you get back.

Cheers - boingk
 
Thanks for all the replies, stopped in at big W on the way home today.
Some how a coopers brew kit found its way into the trolley :lol:
Justified it to SWMBO by saying that I cant brew ginger beer for the kids
at the same time as brewing beer with only one fermenter :rolleyes:
Wasnt till SWMBO read the instructions , that she realised that it only takes three hours
then the kids are bottling their own home brew.
I feel another coopers dark ale with 50/50 malt/dextrose coming on.
Right alongside the tooheys special lager (2nd brew)

Thanks again for the info.
johnm64 :D
 

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