First BIAB

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meathead

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Location
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Below is a recipe I found to do my first BIAB 38L pot
Only problem was i the lhbs didnt have vienna
They suggested i use munich

2 questions
is that ok? And do i need to change any of the ingredients to compensate?

Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: Nottingham
Yeast Starter: Nope
Additional Yeast or Yeast Starter: Nope
Batch Size (Gallons): 5.5 & 11
Original Gravity: 1.039
Final Gravity: 1.008
IBU: 21.6
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60-75
Color: 3.9
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 4 days at 68 Degrees
Additional Fermentation: Kegged, chilled and Carb'd for one week
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 5 Days at 68 Degrees


****5 Gallon Batch****

Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 6.57 gal
Estimated OG: 1.040 SG
Estimated Color: 3.9 SRM
Estimated IBU: 21.5 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.0 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount
7.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
0.75 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM)
0.50 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM)
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (55 min)
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (35 min)
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (20 min)
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (5 min)
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) (Hydrated)


Mash at 150 degrees for 60 minutes.
 
Munich (17.7 EBC) is a darker malt than vienna (6.9 EBC) and will impart a little more of a malty flavour to your beer but given 1/2 a pound is equal to 226g it isn't going to make a massive difference.

Subbing vienna for munich will be fine IMO. It also won't change how you need to brew it. Blaze away young man, and enjoy your first AG. Welcome to the very slippery slope.

JD
 
Blaze away could be the operative word. Just tested the new burner I got on eBay and nearly scorched the garage ceiling
Thanks for the feedback
 
Hi MH, are you in the USA?
I'd recommend getting Brewmate software (free) as you can publish your recipe in Metric / Imperial so it's readable by all audiences :)
 
Our sister site :D - Do you have much crystal? A touch of crystal will add some complexity, say around 150-200 of a medium crystal.
 
Sorry, missed that :blink: - What I was thinking was if you don't have Munich you could slightly up the base malt and add some extra crystal.
 
1 more question
How much water do I put in the pot and for future brews how do I work this out?
 
Get brewmate for free or purchase beersmith, set up an equipment profile and start working it out....will take you at least 4 brews to get it down, took me about 7 before I nailed it

cheers
 
the extra 1L for your mash won't matter at all (if that's what you were worried about). brewmate calculates your boil off volumes and your trub volumes and the 4% cooling loss also, so keep that in mind.

when you're brewing your first few batches, start with the brewmate default settings but make sure you write down your volumes and gravity readings at different parts of the day so you can eventually work out your efficiencies. then you input that into brewmate, so you know what to expect a LOT better than when you start out. after about 5 or 6 brews you'll start to hit your figures spot on :)
 
Well it's finished and it wasnt pretty

Strike temp too high 71 didn't come down after adding grain still at 69

Took preboil gravity after 90 min mash

1022!

Panicked

Added a kilo of lme hardly any difference
Added a kilo of ldme hydrometer floated

Boiled for an hour, added hops, put lid on at end to sanitize head space, covered with cling wrap and lid

Will taste tomorrow afternoon and if it resembles beer will ferment if not.....lawn food

Any tips other than take your time would be appreciated
 
You're fine with a hydrometer, take half a mug full from your pot after you pull the bag.
Cool it down to 20C and take the reading.
 
jakethesnake559 said:
You're fine with a hydrometer, take half a mug full from your pot after you pull the bag.
Cool it down to 20C and take the reading.
Or simply use the tools tab in BrewMate.

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Meathead, you've added approximately 30 gravity points of extract. You'll probably want to take this into account when pitching yeast. A beer of 1070 sg will (ideally) require a much bigger yeast pitch than a beer with a sg of 1040.
 

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