Fermenting Stoped 1014

[winman]

ok after reading some books and checking out my local brew shop (still 40kms away <_< ) i found out that their are 2 main strains of yeast, ale and larger. ale is more suited to summer and brews in 18-24degress, larger is more suited to winter and brews in 8-16 degress. so once i get my bottle collection secure i will be brewing again (tootheys dry brew)

 

[Shed101]

Goodonya winman

i found out that their are 2 main strains of yeast, ale and larger. ale

... and remember, larger yeast is a lot bigger

 

[Hatchy]

ok after reading some books and checking out my local brew shop (still 40kms away <_< ) i found out that their are 2 main strains of yeast, ale and larger. ale is more suited to summer and brews in 18-24degress, larger is more suited to winter and brews in 8-16 degress. so once i get my bottle collection secure i will be brewing again (tootheys dry brew)

What books were you reading? I'd cross reference those.

Sorry dude, typos all sh!t me but that one more than others.

 

[winman]

ive got to check the title of the book, but ive cross referenced it with websites, info pages from brew shop and the advice for the brew shop owner. it seems to be true that larger yeast is well suited to winter, the recipy i brought from the brew shop (country brewer) is tootheys dry, basicly for 28 bucks you get the 1.7k concentrate of dry larger, 1kg bag of brew boster (has 3 different types of sugar (non are white sugar and ill check after the types of sugar) and a bag of hops which are placed in poiling water first like a teabag to seap out their flavour then added to the brew. i know everyones been saying not to but im gonna chuck the old brew as im sure its going to taste horrible and never get drunk, plus i need the bottles. once i start brewing this weekend ill keep posted how its brewing.

 

[hsb]

Good luck mate. Maybe don't toss it? IMHO you got to drink what you make, it's part of the learning curve, if it tastes like ****, you learn faster

 

[felten]

The word is lager, not larger.

Lager is a German word meaning to store, its also the name of a beer. Larger means bigger.

Being subtle didn't work ^_^

 

[bum]

I assure you that it never does.

 

[flano]

I have just done a pilsener that stopped at 1014 -ish.
Those hyrdometersw are bloody useless ...they get stuck to the tube...blah blah.

anyway ...I am not worried it started at 1048 and I used S-23 saflager.
It was on around 14 -12 degrees for the most part.

tastes pretty good flat and at room temp.

 

[outbreak]

I have just done a pilsener that stopped at 1014 -ish.
Those hyrdometersw are bloody useless ...they get stuck to the tube...blah blah.

anyway ...I am not worried it started at 1048 and I used S-23 saflager.
It was on around 14 -12 degrees for the most part.

tastes pretty good flat and at room temp.

Spin the hydrometer and you will find it wont stuck. I know this is may sound stupid but are you calibrating it in water before each use?

 

[Hatchy]

I assure you that it never does.

How would you know?

 

[bum]

Fromexperience in dealing with thick bastards. My resume is pretty complete but thanks for trying to help out.

 

[rendo]

The hyrometer is your best friend Norks, believe me (well hydrometers and patience/time are ur best friends) If the tube aint working for ya then get a new one. Goto the $2 shop and find a tall skinny single flower glass vase, looks like a tall skinny lab beaker cost me $1 and works SO perfectly. Airlocks, bubbling etc...they arent your friend...but hydrometers tell you exactly if fermentation has ceased or not. Plus you get to drink the hydrometer samples and avoid bottle bombs...ask acasta about them

rendo

I have just done a pilsener that stopped at 1014 -ish.
Those hyrdometersw are bloody useless ...they get stuck to the tube...blah blah.

anyway ...I am not worried it started at 1048 and I used S-23 saflager.
It was on around 14 -12 degrees for the most part.

tastes pretty good flat and at room temp.

 

[flano]

The hyrometer is your best friend Norks, believe me (well hydrometers and patience/time are ur best friends) If the tube aint working for ya then get a new one. Goto the $2 shop and find a tall skinny single flower glass vase, looks like a tall skinny lab beaker cost me $1 and works SO perfectly. Airlocks, bubbling etc...they arent your friend...but hydrometers tell you exactly if fermentation has ceased or not. Plus you get to drink the hydrometer samples and avoid bottle bombs...ask acasta about them

rendo

Cheers ...I will defintely do that.

I do do the spin thing but it hardly ever seems to float perfectly in the middle of those plastic tubes.
This is the 2nd Hydrometer I have used in the last couple of months.
Dropped one...and still finding ball bearings everywhere.

Dunno what the calibrating in water is about..but I have just done it and it is on exactly 0% or 1.000.
so I assume it is working .

I reckon the glass tube will solve the sticking to the side of the tube problem.

 

[winman]

i noticed with my hydrometer that if i had bubbles on the top of the sample it would not work, to solve this you can fill it up to the extent that when you put in the hydrometer the beer over flows n flushes the bubbles out, or just wait.
its been almost 24 hours since i added the yeast, i haven't seen the airlock bubble but i have been out for the past 24 hours, but ive noticed the the water has moved in it, in other words it should have started, ive got the temp chilling at a cool 15, you would believe how much of a pain it was to get the temp down so that i could add the yeast.

 

[outbreak]

If its at 1.000 in water that means it calibrated. The paper in the hydrometers have a habit of slipping, well mine anyway. I have to minus .009 of all my readings.

 

[Pennywise]

Just to add to the above, if it reads 1.000 in water at 15-16 degrees it's calibrated. Also apparently it should be distilled water, but mine reads 1.000 in plain tap water at 16 so dunno bout that info

 

[bum]

To add further to that point, mine calibrates to 20C. Have a squiz and it should say on it what temp you should be working to.

 

[winman]

ive read on my the temperature calibration to be 20, but i can only imagine the difference between reading that that level to be very small, mines 1001 in chilled fridge water (10-14C)