Fat Yak K&k Clone

[The Giant]

timy the clone i make is pretty much spot on to urs except i use Coopers IPA as my base not the real ale and use Cooper liquid LDM can to

Happy to say mine was pretty much spot on to Fat Yak except maybe a touch more bitterness. Might try upping the hops late or just use a real ale kit like u have done to see the difference

 

[timryan]

do you think it would be worth dry hopping while cold conditioning giant?

 

[jamespfoster]

Hey guys this is how im rolling currently.. could i grab some opinion please..

Ingredients:
1.7kg Coopers Pale Ale Kit
1kg LDME
45g Cascade Hops Pellets
45g Nelson Sauvin Hops Pellets
US05 Yeast
150g Wheat Malt Extract - Steep
250g Dextrose

Recipe:
-Dissolve 750g Light Dry Malt Extract
-Add 1 x Coopers Pale Ale Kit
- Add Boil.
- Top up to 23L.
- Pitch with US05 Yeast Re Hydrated.

Boil:
- Bring 2L of water to boil.
- Dissolved 250g Light Dry Malt Extract.
15g Cascade hops @10min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops – @10min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops – @0min
15g Cascade hops - @0min
- Hop additions as per above.
- Allow to cool than added to fermenter.

Dry Hop:
15g Cascade hops dry hop
15g Nelson Sauvin dry hop

Racked Off
Racked Off 19.10.2011
Cold Conditioning Started

Hey Guys,

I used this recipe today - except for the 150g wheat malt - and I thought everything went pretty well (my second brew). However the OG is only 1030 - I would have expected much more. Thought it was dodgy hyrdometer - but used a spare I have and it reads the same. What could cause such a low reading? Is my beer stuffed?
Thanks for any advice or help!!!

 

[kymba]

what temp was the wort when you took the measurement?

hydrometers are calibrated to a certain temp, say 20 degrees, and you will need to punch your gravity x degrees to get the proper reading

i use a refractometer so i don't get this problem, and don't know where the correction tables are...try the googles

 

[yum beer]

Hey Guys,

I used this recipe today - except for the 150g wheat malt - and I thought everything went pretty well (my second brew). However the OG is only 1030 - I would have expected much more. Thought it was dodgy hyrdometer - but used a spare I have and it reads the same. What could cause such a low reading? Is my beer stuffed?
Thanks for any advice or help!!!

You should be around 1040-1042, maybe you havent dissolved all your goo...

 

[jamespfoster]

You should be around 1040-1042, maybe you havent dissolved all your goo...

That's what I thought it should have been. All the goo was definitely dissolved (as was the dex and DME). Would it be possible if the wort wasn't stirred enough that I could possibly get a part of the wort with a lower SG?
And the temperature of the wort was about 26 when I took the reading, so it wouldn't explain too much of a variation.... Even if there was a 'hot spot' this wouldn't make up the missing 10 SG....

Really have no idea what the hell happened :unsure:

 

[The Giant]

do you think it would be worth dry hopping while cold conditioning giant?

Sorry timryan, didnt see this until then.

Dry hopping was good, but if doing so when cold conditioning I find u need to leave it 2-3 weeks in the keg to condition further prior to drinking
if not u get a bit of a herbal kind of taste

I'm thinking for my next one just upping the hops at flame out instead of dry hopping

 

[boingk]

AusJF - if you put in all the ingredients and topped with water to the right level (21~22L not 25L for example) then you should be fine to ferment away. Most likely theres still some goo etc still at the bottom. The yeast will ferment this out easily, I wouldn't worry. So long as you havent left anything out you should be fine.

For what its worth, I haven't use d a hydrometer in over 50 brews and I'm doing fine. it can be useful for determening when ferments stop, but for the most part I simply look at brew activity and yeast sediment to determine when a ferment is over. Clean top, dark-looking fermenter and compact sediment means brew over. Generally this will be around the 5 to 10 day mark for most basic beers.

Cheers - boingk

 

[jamespfoster]

AusJF - if you put in all the ingredients and topped with water to the right level (21~22L not 25L for example) then you should be fine to ferment away. Most likely theres still some goo etc still at the bottom. The yeast will ferment this out easily, I wouldn't worry. So long as you havent left anything out you should be fine.

For what its worth, I haven't use d a hydrometer in over 50 brews and I'm doing fine. it can be useful for determening when ferments stop, but for the most part I simply look at brew activity and yeast sediment to determine when a ferment is over. Clean top, dark-looking fermenter and compact sediment means brew over. Generally this will be around the 5 to 10 day mark for most basic beers.

Cheers - boingk

Thanks boingk - will keep going and see how it turns out! Definitely good to have the advice of you guys on this forum.

 

[boingk]

No worries mate, I remember what it was like starting out in all this.

As for OG/FG, I stopped because I figured the only reason I wanted to know was to calculate the alcohol percentage. The only reason I'd care about that was to know if I could still drive - and myself and mates generally have a rule that if you've had more than one you don't drive anyway... so it was all a bit useless!

If you are doing allgrain then OG/FG becomes a lot more important as you need to know the efficiency of your brewing. You might get 50% efficiency and have a midstrength stout, or you might get 90% and end up with a full strength 'midstrength'! For largely extract based brewing its not anywhere near that crucial - you put ingredients in and the yest ferments them

Cheers - boingk

 

[MartsHomeBrew]

I just discovered a packet of Nelson Hops at the back of my fridge, would like to give this recipe a try for fat yak. What would happen if I replaced the Pale Ale tin with a lager tin? (Which i have several of in the cupboard). Is it possible to replace the ale tin with dry malt extract if not lager tin, as i also have tons of that in stock? Forgive my ignorance

 

[carniebrew]

I just discovered a packet of Nelson Hops at the back of my fridge, would like to give this recipe a try for fat yak. What would happen if I replaced the Pale Ale tin with a lager tin? (Which i have several of in the cupboard). Is it possible to replace the ale tin with dry malt extract if not lager tin, as i also have tons of that in stock? Forgive my ignorance

You could replace the Coopers Pale Ale tin with their Lager, the IBU's are pretty close...strangely enough the Lager tin has a few more units. However, if you're replacing the Pale Ale tin with DME, you'll need to make up the 18.5 IBU's you've just lost by adding more hops to the boil, and doing a 60 minute boil to extract the amount of bitterness you need. e.g. 15 grams of 11.5%AA Nelson Sauvin boiled for 60 minutes will give you around 19 IBU.

 

[MartsHomeBrew]

You could replace the Coopers Pale Ale tin with their Lager, the IBU's are pretty close...strangely enough the Lager tin has a few more units. However, if you're replacing the Pale Ale tin with DME, you'll need to make up the 18.5 IBU's you've just lost by adding more hops to the boil, and doing a 60 minute boil to extract the amount of bitterness you need. e.g. 15 grams of 11.5%AA Nelson Sauvin boiled for 60 minutes will give you around 19 IBU.

Thanks for that, Carnie. Going through the thread I noticed someone else used a lager tin so will go with that based on your advice, its the Ibu concept I have not yet paid attention to in the past so I must get onto that. Also do not have any Cascade hops or similar but I do have Hersbrucker, Fuggles & Tettnager. Perhaps might just add a little extra Nelson, I have an 80gm pack. Can't decide for the possible wheat dme addition with everyone's assorted variations on this recipe. If it mellows reduces the mentioned possibility of excessive bitterness, I'd likely add it. Looking forward to this cook up....

 

[_HOME_BREW_WALLACE_]

try some Munich with a coopers Australian Pale Ale kit and some cascade and nelson sauvin hops. ferment with us05.

cheers

 

[carniebrew]

Thanks for that, Carnie. Going through the thread I noticed someone else used a lager tin so will go with that based on your advice, its the Ibu concept I have not yet paid attention to in the past so I must get onto that. Also do not have any Cascade hops or similar but I do have Hersbrucker, Fuggles & Tettnager. Perhaps might just add a little extra Nelson, I have an 80gm pack. Can't decide for the possible wheat dme addition with everyone's assorted variations on this recipe. If it mellows reduces the mentioned possibility of excessive bitterness, I'd likely add it. Looking forward to this cook up....

Yeah sorry I haven't read through the whole 5 pages of this thread, just the last couple. If you don't know about IBU's you're best sticking to pre-hopped beer kit tins, such as Coopers:

- Pale Ale (18 IBU's)
- Draught (23)
- IPA (38)
- Euro Lager (18)
- Real Ale (30)

etc etc. Obviously the higher the number above, the more hop bitterness will be in the end beer. Boiling hops for 60 minutes given you bitterness, adding them towards the end of a boil, or dry hopping, adds mostly just flavour and aroma. So you could take a Pale Ale above and throw 15 grams of Fuggles into the fermenter to make it taste/smell a bit more British...

Your Hersbrucker, Fuggles & Tettnager are all quite low alpha acid hops, better used for late addition/dry hopping for that hoppy aroma. Get your hands on something like Warrior hops (16% AA) to use for 60 minute bittering additions, that way you can use a lot less of them. For example 10 grams of Warrior @ 60 minutes would give you a similar IBU (~18) as using 40 grams of Fuggles @ 60 minutes. Nelson Sauvin is also pretty good for bittering (~13%).

 

[capt_pug_wash]

After the 10 minute addition of hops and then more at flame out should i leave it cool for about 30 min or put the wort into some cold water.

 

[carniebrew]

Either way is fine, depends on the volume of water you boiled...the more you boiled, the more sense it makes to cool it in a water bath to speed up the process. If you only boiled a couple of litres it may not matter much....but obviously a water bath is still gonna be quick and easy.

 

[cavey]

Just Popped one of these into the fermenter today......love my fat yak, so see how it turns out. Thanks again for all the input you can get fom this site......thanks guys!

 

[cavey]

I notice a lot of people in this thread dry hopping at day 4-5. I am now at day 6, OG was 1043, now 1013, with a target fg of 1010ish. Would I be right to drop in the 15g cascade and Nelson now? Just don't want to go too early and lose flavour with the co2?

Also, how long do you guys normally dry hop for before bottling?

Cheers

 

[ash2]

All Fat Yak recipes I have come across have Cascade & Nelson Sauvin hops,have Cascade but no Nelson,any ideas what I could try instead of Nelson Sauvin. :chug: