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Fat Yak K&k Clone

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My understanding is that the wheat malt extract is steeped, then the LDME/dextrose is added with water and boiled until hot break is reached (maybe not? Or just go straight to adding hops once it's boiling?). Add 15g Cascade/15g NS, boil 10 mins, add 15g NS, turn off heat. Add 1.7kg Coopers can, stir in, strain into fermenter, add dry hop and extra water to temperature, pitch yeast and away we go.

I haven't done any dry hopping yet by from what I've read on here you dry hop after a few days of fermemting has taken place.
Like maybe day 4 or 5 ? (Not 100% sure if someone else can confirm)
 
Yes. After four or five days take the lid off the fermenter and throw the hops in. Don't worry about oxygen getting in and ruining your beer because after 4 or 5 days of fermentation there should be a thick layer of CO2 that will act like a blanket (because CO2 is heavier than oxygen). They don't need to be in a hop bag - they can just be loose pellets.
Don't leave the lid off for ages but a few seconds should be fine.
 
Well Mines ready to bottle. It's tasting awesome!

Might get the bottles ready tonight, and do it tomorrow evening!
 
Well Mines ready to bottle. It's tasting awesome!

Might get the bottles ready tonight, and do it tomorrow evening!
only just now got a chance to sample a bottle. It's mighty tasty.

I'm really looking for a hop aroma kick in the teeth though, so if I were to increase the hop additions, but a half, or even double, any educated guesses as to what this would do to the brew?
 
Fat Yak.
1.7kg Black Rock IPA
1.0kg DME
15g Cascade hops @15min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops @15min
15g Cascade hops @5min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops @5min
US-05 Yeast

Fermented for 14 days at 18 degrees then filtered into a Keg.

Drinking the above right now. Only 3 weeks since I put it in the fermenter and already very nice. In fact I've been drinking it for the last week! The hops are starting to fade now, and they were so nice. Will add more hops next time perhaps and dry hop.
 
Hey Tim

I just got all the ingredients to brew the top receipe over the weekend.

Looking forward to the end result.

Cheers Matt
 
Good luck matt I've got the ingredients too just need to bottle a Amarillo ale that's been cold conditioning since late July.. Just dry hopped yesterday with another 25grams of Amarillo which brings it too a total of 85grams.. Love the hop flavours.. Good luck matt
 
Thanks Tim I'll let you know how I go. The Amarillo sounds hopped to the max!!

Good luck matt I've got the ingredients too just need to bottle a Amarillo ale that's been cold conditioning since late July.. Just dry hopped yesterday with another 25grams of Amarillo which brings it too a total of 85grams.. Love the hop flavours.. Good luck matt
 
Yer 40gms of it has been dry hopped.. Some of the hop flavor will disappear so I've compenstated for it.. Haha.. It's good mate get on it..
 
Hey Guys with this recipe how much water are you boiling?
I'd like to give this a try and see how it turns out thanks

Bisho
 
Just put this one down but upped the hops a little added an extra 15g of cascade at flameout and I'll dry hop with 15g of both Instead of just cascade just to increase the flavor...
 
Im over in NZ and have heard many people talking about Fat Yak and that it was a pretty good Pale Ale (which is my drinking style of choice) and plenty of people were posting recipes etc for this particular drop.

So it was to my suprise to find it available at a local Food Store yesterday. I quickly snapped up a 6pk and didnt even bother buying food. Went home and gave it a whirl.

I must say, I was completely disappointed with it actually. Found it to be lacking in bitterness, flavour and aroma, of which out of the bottle there was barely none. Stock wasnt that old.

In anycase, this post is about a Fat Yak clone. So I am going to keep a bottle of the commercial product and make a clone for a comparison, as Im sure with fresh ingredients, I can make it much better.

Havent decided yet if I will go full extract or K&B....may even try a mini BIAB that I have just started doing.

Anyways, thats my 2c on the actual commercial product and thoughts about making a clone.

Cheers all and happy brewing!
 
I made a brew recently tasted quite similar to fat yak prob better. I was drinking it with a mate who had a 6er of fat yak.The taste was very similar its gunna be my staple now!
It was a cascade pale ale with 25g of cascade hops just dropped into wort with brew enhancer.Im gunna try this again next brew day and put it in recipe D/B if it turns out the samecoz it was damn tasty
 
Would I be right in concluding it is predominantly the inclusion of Nelson Sauvin hops that give the characteristic floral citrusy taste to Fat yak, Little creatures and a few others I have tasted at WA micro brewries?
 
did a side by side with my Yak clone and the real thing.

Mines on the right...

apart from mine being a bit darker - flavour and aroma was pretty close.

Must say I am pretty proud of this one.


Heres the recipe I used

1 can Tooheys Classic Dry Lager (I use any old can of goo for a base)
750g Dried Light Malt
120g light Crystal Malt
120g Dark Crystal Malt
1kg Honey
10g Nelson Sauvin Hops @ 15mins
15g Nelson Sauvin Hops @ 5mins
10g Nelson Sauvin Hops @ 0mins
US05 yeast

(edited to add the recipe)
 
I must say that this is a real nice drop and i will be making it again i too am proud of this one best one so far. Tasted it's best after a week in the keg.

bisho
 
Hey guys this is how im rolling currently.. could i grab some opinion please..

Ingredients:
1.7kg Coopers Pale Ale Kit
1kg LDME
45g Cascade Hops Pellets
45g Nelson Sauvin Hops Pellets
US05 Yeast
150g Wheat Malt Extract - Steep
250g Dextrose

Recipe:
-Dissolve 750g Light Dry Malt Extract
-Add 1 x Coopers Pale Ale Kit
- Add Boil.
- Top up to 23L.
- Pitch with US05 Yeast Re Hydrated.

Boil:
- Bring 2L of water to boil.
- Dissolved 250g Light Dry Malt Extract.
15g Cascade hops @10min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops @10min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops @0min
15g Cascade hops - @0min
- Hop additions as per above.
- Allow to cool than added to fermenter.

Dry Hop:
15g Cascade hops dry hop
15g Nelson Sauvin dry hop

Racked Off
Racked Off 19.10.2011
Cold Conditioning Started
 
timy the clone i make is pretty much spot on to urs except i use Coopers IPA as my base not the real ale and use Cooper liquid LDM can to

Happy to say mine was pretty much spot on to Fat Yak except maybe a touch more bitterness. Might try upping the hops late or just use a real ale kit like u have done to see the difference
 
do you think it would be worth dry hopping while cold conditioning giant?
 
Hey guys this is how im rolling currently.. could i grab some opinion please..

Ingredients:
1.7kg Coopers Pale Ale Kit
1kg LDME
45g Cascade Hops Pellets
45g Nelson Sauvin Hops Pellets
US05 Yeast
150g Wheat Malt Extract - Steep
250g Dextrose

Recipe:
-Dissolve 750g Light Dry Malt Extract
-Add 1 x Coopers Pale Ale Kit
- Add Boil.
- Top up to 23L.
- Pitch with US05 Yeast Re Hydrated.

Boil:
- Bring 2L of water to boil.
- Dissolved 250g Light Dry Malt Extract.
15g Cascade hops @10min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops – @10min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops – @0min
15g Cascade hops - @0min
- Hop additions as per above.
- Allow to cool than added to fermenter.

Dry Hop:
15g Cascade hops dry hop
15g Nelson Sauvin dry hop

Racked Off
Racked Off 19.10.2011
Cold Conditioning Started

Hey Guys,

I used this recipe today - except for the 150g wheat malt - and I thought everything went pretty well (my second brew). However the OG is only 1030 - I would have expected much more. Thought it was dodgy hyrdometer - but used a spare I have and it reads the same. What could cause such a low reading? Is my beer stuffed?
Thanks for any advice or help!!!
 
what temp was the wort when you took the measurement?

hydrometers are calibrated to a certain temp, say 20 degrees, and you will need to punch your gravity x degrees to get the proper reading

i use a refractometer so i don't get this problem, and don't know where the correction tables are...try the googles
 
Hey Guys,

I used this recipe today - except for the 150g wheat malt - and I thought everything went pretty well (my second brew). However the OG is only 1030 - I would have expected much more. Thought it was dodgy hyrdometer - but used a spare I have and it reads the same. What could cause such a low reading? Is my beer stuffed?
Thanks for any advice or help!!!


You should be around 1040-1042, maybe you havent dissolved all your goo...
 
You should be around 1040-1042, maybe you havent dissolved all your goo...

That's what I thought it should have been. All the goo was definitely dissolved (as was the dex and DME). Would it be possible if the wort wasn't stirred enough that I could possibly get a part of the wort with a lower SG?
And the temperature of the wort was about 26 when I took the reading, so it wouldn't explain too much of a variation.... Even if there was a 'hot spot' this wouldn't make up the missing 10 SG....

Really have no idea what the hell happened :unsure:
 
do you think it would be worth dry hopping while cold conditioning giant?

Sorry timryan, didnt see this until then.

Dry hopping was good, but if doing so when cold conditioning I find u need to leave it 2-3 weeks in the keg to condition further prior to drinking
if not u get a bit of a herbal kind of taste

I'm thinking for my next one just upping the hops at flame out instead of dry hopping
 
AusJF - if you put in all the ingredients and topped with water to the right level (21~22L not 25L for example) then you should be fine to ferment away. Most likely theres still some goo etc still at the bottom. The yeast will ferment this out easily, I wouldn't worry. So long as you havent left anything out you should be fine.

For what its worth, I haven't use d a hydrometer in over 50 brews and I'm doing fine. it can be useful for determening when ferments stop, but for the most part I simply look at brew activity and yeast sediment to determine when a ferment is over. Clean top, dark-looking fermenter and compact sediment means brew over. Generally this will be around the 5 to 10 day mark for most basic beers.

Cheers - boingk
 
AusJF - if you put in all the ingredients and topped with water to the right level (21~22L not 25L for example) then you should be fine to ferment away. Most likely theres still some goo etc still at the bottom. The yeast will ferment this out easily, I wouldn't worry. So long as you havent left anything out you should be fine.

For what its worth, I haven't use d a hydrometer in over 50 brews and I'm doing fine. it can be useful for determening when ferments stop, but for the most part I simply look at brew activity and yeast sediment to determine when a ferment is over. Clean top, dark-looking fermenter and compact sediment means brew over. Generally this will be around the 5 to 10 day mark for most basic beers.

Cheers - boingk

Thanks boingk - will keep going and see how it turns out! Definitely good to have the advice of you guys on this forum.
 
No worries mate, I remember what it was like starting out in all this.

As for OG/FG, I stopped because I figured the only reason I wanted to know was to calculate the alcohol percentage. The only reason I'd care about that was to know if I could still drive - and myself and mates generally have a rule that if you've had more than one you don't drive anyway... so it was all a bit useless!

If you are doing allgrain then OG/FG becomes a lot more important as you need to know the efficiency of your brewing. You might get 50% efficiency and have a midstrength stout, or you might get 90% and end up with a full strength 'midstrength'! For largely extract based brewing its not anywhere near that crucial - you put ingredients in and the yest ferments them :)

Cheers - boingk
 
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