Expressions of Interest - SS fermenter cones- Melb, Syd, anywhere

[Topher]

I'm sure these guys could help yob.

 

[paulhill]

hey there
whats the chances of getting that solid works file

id like to have a look at what i could build with it

 

[Tex N Oz]

Hi Paul,
Sorry mate but it's not Solidworks. I'll have a look and see if I can convert it though.

 

[husky]

I'd be in for min 2(more if quantities get up there). Also keen on a domed top if others were also. I would be rolling and welding a cylinder to the cone so would be looking to weld some form of top on it.

 

[MastersBrewery]

Tex I take it you have your muppets lined up in sydney, so might it be possible atleast for those local to do a bulk run of work through them. I have shied away from conicals purely on none locally are pressure rated at reasonable cost. I'd be keen on three setup same as you've described.

 

[Tex N Oz]

Hey Masters,

I'm my own muppet. haha

This project is more of a DIY unless the buyer has friends or family who can help them with the welding as fitting can get very expensive.
If the demand is high enough, I may build a jig to make these things and can then take on other's projects to help out. Without decent jigging it's not a fast process and would take hours to complete one unit. With some jigs and the owner doing the bulk of the laborious work (sanding/cleaning/polishing), it wouldn't take but perhaps an hour a vessel. That would be the cut, cone weld and the 2 x 38mm sanitary fittings. I might also go fancy and put 4 x 2" sanitary fittings on top as well. I'm also flirting with removing the spear fitting and fitting a 4" there. I've gotten prices on the Gamajet Nano and the Gamajet V7 and let's just say prices per unit are mid to high 4 digits so CIP is quickly becoming my fantasy and not a reality.

If anyone has a TIG and just isn't sure how to put it together, I can help there too.
The most important thing to remember when building a sanitary vessel is NO FILLER ROD.. Leave that stuff in the box. filler rod = pores = infection.
Make sure you make a clean precise cut (plasma), clean your joint very well. You'll want to run this as a closed butt weld with the following settings as a starting point.

1.6mm Lanthanum 1.5% (gold tip)
9.5mm torch cup (you can use a glass lens if you've got one)
12 cfh argon shield gas
no filler rod
63 amps (adjust as required)
150hz pulse to minimize burn through and warping.

You must also back-shield your weld which will be tricky with a closed system like this but I'm going to build a wand to perform this task. Argon is expensive and the idea of purging a 60 ltr vessel is like throwing fist-fulls of fiftie$ into the air.

Finally you'll want to pickle and passivate all of your welds. I'm also thinking electro-polishing. I'll have to get prices though.

www.picklingandpassivation.com.au

 

[mb-squared]

Hey Tex, looks like we're neighbors. I already ferment under pressure in 50L kegs (completely unmodified) and it works a charm. Cleaning is a cinch -- just put 'em on a gas burner with a little water and caustic soda inside and boil the **** out of 'em. Try that with your plastic fermenter! But they'd even be better with a cone on the bottom. I think. How many litres would you be able to drain off through the racking arm? I'm just wondering if it would increase my yield any over what I do already. I'm able to get ~45 litres of clean beer out of my 50L keg now before the line plugs with cold-crashed yeast. Would draining from the racking arm give me more yield? If so, I'll sign up too.

 

[zwitter]

Hi Tex
I am interested but probably in all the bits and preferably all welded together. Is that an option?
I have a tig welder but it does not do 150hz as far as I am aware. I have welded for years and stainless and getting better but filler rod is often my saviour. Could you use strips of the same metal as filler? I bought a 26L conical but am interested in a bigger one.

I am in sydney
James

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Tex N Oz]

Hey Tex, looks like we're neighbors. I already ferment under pressure in 50L kegs (completely unmodified) and it works a charm. Cleaning is a cinch -- just put 'em on a gas burner with a little water and caustic soda inside and boil the **** out of 'em. Try that with your plastic fermenter! But they'd even be better with a cone on the bottom. I think. How many litres would you be able to drain off through the racking arm? I'm just wondering if it would increase my yield any over what I do already. I'm able to get ~45 litres of clean beer out of my 50L keg now before the line plugs with cold-crashed yeast. Would draining from the racking arm give me more yield? If so, I'll sign up too.

Hi mb,
I've calculated 60.5 ltrs capacity. That's taking into account the loss of head space from cutting off the bottom about 25mm. I'm guestimating 53 ltrs at pitch and perhaps 50 ltrs with a couple trub dumps and conversion. The pickup tube will fit to within 100mm of the bottom of the cone and lost volume will be negligible. Maybe 300 ml.. Just enough to sample out of the dump valve if you're like me and not picky.
For me the perk is I can primary, secondary and serve to tap or my soon to be designed equal pressure bottling machine. Well, that's my plans "says the man who makes **** beer"..

We should catch up for a beer sometime. Maybe you could lesson me on the brewing side of things. haha

 

[Tex N Oz]

I have a tig welder but it does not do 150hz as far as I am aware.

Hi James.
the Hz rate only helps control heat. You don't have to have it but it help prevent burn through. If you're happy to run a couple inches at a time then it will be fine..
As for the filler rod, most butt welding is done with a small gap and filler rod. The problem with this is porosity of the backside of the weld. If you run a close butt weld with no rod then it's not a problem.
It's the way all thin gauge metal should be run anyway IMHO.
If you're not sure of your ability to run a good weld then I'd make a second pass with filler just to be sure. If you use a rod, ER308LSi is a good choice for 304.
If I have enough interest, I might invest in jigging to put these together for people who need help. Without jigging its a lot of hard work and will take more hours to complete.
I'd be happy to stop in and give you a hand if you needed though.

 

[5150]

Hi Tex,

This sounds like a fantastic project. I'd be in for 4 units if you were to go down the path of setting up a jig. Otherwise I am more than happy to come and do the laborious work that takes no skills. I'd be happy to pay for your time.

Where is that thread about no innovations going on here anymore??? I don't think you could get much more innovative than this. Well Done.

 

[Tex N Oz]

Where is that thread about no innovations going on here anymore??? I don't think you could get much more innovative than this. Well Done.

Thanks for the vote of confidence mate!! I'm drafting up the design for a jig now. I have to admit this is going a little slower than I thought it would and having doubts we'll hit the 50 at best..
Maybe if I put it together a "welded" package there will be more interest? Dunno... :unsure:

 

[welly2]

Thanks for the vote of confidence mate!! I'm drafting up the design for a jig now. I have to admit this is going a little slower than I thought it would and having doubts we'll hit the 50 at best..
Maybe if I put it together a "welded" package there will be more interest? Dunno... :unsure:

If you can build anything remotely like an SS Brewtech Chronical, put me down for at least one

 

[Mardoo]

I'm sure there would be more interest if you put together a welded package. There are far more people on here, myself included, who are far more able to do the fittings on brew equipment than doing the sort of welding you describe.

 

[5150]

Thanks for the vote of confidence mate!! I'm drafting up the design for a jig now. I have to admit this is going a little slower than I thought it would and having doubts we'll hit the 50 at best..
Maybe if I put it together a "welded" package there will be more interest? Dunno... :unsure:

I think if you put a complete package together you might find yourself in full time employment.

The offer stands that I am more than happy to come and help out with anything I could be useful for.

Ps. if you head down the beaches way give me a yell, not that this weather is encouraging and probably wait till July is over. :beerbang: :lol:

 

[dug]

I'll tentatively put my hand up for one.

 

[Tex N Oz]

Ps. if you head down the beaches way give me a yell, not that this weather is encouraging and probably wait till July is over. :beerbang: :lol:

Yeah, that would be great. I get that way once in a while.


I've got a suspicion that if I put up a "welder for hire" price list, we might get more interest in this project. I'm designing the gear as I type this and hopefully I'll have something put together soon.
While I'm definitely not looking to turn this into a career (as I'm early retired with a bit of a dicked up heart), it would keep me from playing up in the brothels. :wub:
I'm hoping we can at least hit the 50 price break.

 

[Grainer]

watching this thread.. I got a friend who weds stainless for beer apparently,..

 

[Tahoose]

Just an idea, which has started bouncing around in my brain from this and the pressure fermenting question that has popped up elsewhere.

How about a 50ltr keg, the 2inch opening can be fitted with a tri clamp fitting and end cap, then install a gas ball lock post to the 2" end cap.

Cutting the other end of the keg and welding on a 4" ferrule like this;

http://www.5stardistilling.net/4-ferrulle/

http://www.5stardistilling.net/4-x-1-2-bsp/

Keg $125 (new)
4" ferrulle and 4"plate -1/2" bsp $38
2" end cap and clamp $20
Gas ball lock post weldless $15
Seals,disconnects and other fittings $25-30?

Welding labour $?? Or beer?

Pretty sure there is a liquid ball lock connection that fits 1/2" bsp.

 

[MastersBrewery]

Just an idea, which has started bouncing around in my brain from this and the pressure fermenting question that has popped up elsewhere.

How about a 50ltr keg, the 2inch opening can be fitted with a tri clamp fitting and end cap, then install a gas ball lock post to the 2" end cap.

Cutting the other end of the keg and welding on a 4" ferrule like this;

http://www.5stardistilling.net/4-ferrulle/

http://www.5stardistilling.net/4-x-1-2-bsp/

Keg $125 (new)
4" ferrulle and 4"plate -1/2" bsp $38
2" end cap and clamp $20
Gas ball lock post weldless $15
Seals,disconnects and other fittings $25-30?

Welding labour $?? Or beer?

Pretty sure there is a liquid ball lock connection that fits 1/2" bsp.

Or do this for the top 2", and this is the cap with 1/2" and thermowell

ED: yes 1/2" ball locks are used for Mytton Rodd kegs, $20 each from the right retailer