Electric Hlt Set Up

[ntboozer]

I managed to grab two elements for my SS HLT today (courtesy of Belle kettles)
and was wondering if those that are using these have covered the cord/plug area somehow (jiffy box from Jaycar???). I'm not a sparkie and am after suggestions for making the 'live' part of this set up safe.
Cheers
nt
:beer:

 

[T.D.]

I just figured you'd keep the existing kettle plug assemply (the computer power cord-type thing) and just plug it in that way. Is there a reason why this is not a good idea? Or are you just trying to hook both elements up to the same power cord?

 

[Sparky]

I can't make out the connections or plugs in your pic ntboozer, however whatever method you settle with you should consider using a RCD (Residual Current Device) also called an ELCB (Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker) on the lead, if there's not already one on the power circuit.

These units pick up the slightest leakage to earth & disconnect the power before you receive a severe electric shock.

Cheers

WayneO

 

[ntboozer]

Sorry guys,
May have been a little vauge with the original post.
Here a some more images

My concern was with covering the area where the plug fits into the socket (basically the whole plastic part) so there was no dramas with wayward slashes of water, boil overs etc.
Hope this makes sense from a non-electric guru frame of mind.
nt
:beer:

 

[ntboozer]

& number 2


So basically is there a need to enclose the whole black plastic part or is it ok to just cut the hole in the keg - o (oops) SS container)), screw the element and socket part together, plug in the power cord, and fire up via an ELCB equiped power board.
nt
(possible future crispy critter )
:beer:

 

[vlbaby]

i just fitted a jiffy box from dick smith. I should note that this setup is not water proof and as such i use a RCD cord with this.
Probably the screws should also be plastic but i havent got around to finding some yet.


vlbaby.

 

[ntboozer]

vlbaby,
Exactly what I was thinking. Might drop into tricky dickies or jaycar and see what I can come up with.
nt

 

[Charlie]

Hi NTBoozer,

I am looking at doing something similar in the new year and I was wondering where did you get the elements from and how much they cost you ...

cheers

 

[Charlie]

I'd also be interested to find out how fast they get to the boil (when you have gotten it setup and working) ...


cheers

 

[jagerbrau]

Bloody excelent idea, what sort of watts are they and do they heat very quickly, but a simple elegant solution.. cheers for that

 

[jagerbrau]

Bloody excelent idea, what sort of watts are they and do they heat very quickly, but a simple elegant solution.. cheers for that

 

[T.D.]

What are the red wires for? Do you need them?

 

[Joel]

I've got exactly the same type of setup. "Belle" kettle elements in a 60L plastic vessel. My elements are 2200W and 2000W, both together will get 30L of about 60C wort to the boil in just under 30min, then I cycle the 2000W one manually to keep a good strong vigorous boil.

The red (or white sometimes) wires are for the little indicator light. A good way of telling whether the element is on and working.

I haven't got around to covering them with jiffy boxes yet, but in the last 3 uses of my plastic electric boiler I have yet to get any kind of liquid near them, even during the clean up. I will be doing it in the future.

 

[ntboozer]

These are the babies.

Cost a whole $9 something each from BigW. Just bust the kettle apart and remove the element (2200watt).
I got 2 jiffy boxes from Jaycar today - $7 each - so I'll start cutting and and modifying this weekend.
nt
:beer:

 

[Charlie]

I'll have to pop into BigW to grab a couple ...

I'm also interested in the container they will be going into ... I was planning on buying a 80L aluminium stock pot (yeah yeah .. please don't some one start on the aluminium/stainless steel thing) from a mob in sydney (euroquip, I think) for around $130, but it looks like you guys are going to use a plastic containers instead ...

Where do you get them from and how much are they and do they come in different sizes (I want to start doing double batches soon - spending 6 hours to make 23 L of beer just ain't worth it - plus the missus grumbles too much)?

cheers

Charlie

 

[Justin]

I have no issues with Alu, they are a good choice.

Plastic containers can be a good choice if you can find them big enough for your needs. I know some people have used their old plastic fermenters (30L) but you can also use those 20L white HPDE buckets-the ones with the thicker walls are better.

The hardest part of using plastic vessels is getting them big enough as they tend to max out around the 20L mark (I'm guessing for safety issues with lifting much more than that)-however I guess you could use 2 buckets with an element in each. Really depends how big the batches you want to brew are (yes you said you wanted to brew double batches).

There are big 40L buckets to be found though, I think maybe pool chlorine may come in a big bucket from some sources. I have seen ~40L white buckets but they aren't common. I guess you could use a 40-50L esky and either mount an element in it or use an immersion/over the side type one.

If you've got the funds the alu pot would be a good choice, which could also be used for your kettle.

 

[T.D.]

I have looked around heaps for a boil-proof plastic container that is bigger than 25L, with no success. I just use a 25L Rheem pail at the moment for a hlt and boiler. I have actually had a 50L stainless boiler made up (will be using it for the first time this weekend hopefully! ) so I can boil a double batch volume (I use an immersion element so boil-overs are not an issue, only problem is whether the element will actually boil 45+ litres!). But of course, 25L will not be enough for a hlt is doing a double batch so I will either get another stainless vat made up or buy a 40L ali pot. The s/s may be the way to go - it will be double the cost (~$200) to get made up but it will have an outlet welded on and is a better shape for my element.

Anyway, to (sort of) answer your question, I don't know of any genuine boil-proof plastic containers over 25L. People do use 30 and 60L carboys but I have been told that they are not really suitable for boiling wort. Some would evidently beg to differ though!

 

[Wortgames]

The problem with plastic is that it tends to get really soft when it gets warm. I've used plastic fermenters and a couple of different plastic bins for HLTs, they've all done a passable job for a few months but none of them have been great.

The most successful one I used was a square white plastic swing-top kitchen bin. The (almost) flat sides made it easy to attach the element, and the swing top made it easy to get the hose in to fill it but protected it from crap dropping in. It slowly lost its shape and got closer and closer to failing, but I got a lot of brews out of it.

If you hunt around you can find kettle elements that use a threaded plastic collar to mount them in place, no need for silicon or jiffy boxes. You may need to pay a bit more, but remember that jiffy boxes and silicon all cost money.

I now use a converted stainless steel vessel (somewhat reminiscent of a beer keg) which is the only 'permanent' solution IMO (although a chopped down hot-water service would probably do a great job too).

:beer:

 

[Joel]

I use a 60L plastic fermenter for my kettle. Got it from a mob called "Silverlock Packaging" here in Adelaide. Cost around $25 to $30 from memory (you'll pay around $80 in a brewshop for these). I only do single batch size brews BTW.

Yes it does get a bit softer after a 90min boil, but those fermenters have fairly thick walls for plastic vessels.

Got pictures of my cheapass brew setup here:

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...6572&hl=plastic electric

you'll see the inside of the kettle empty and when it's reached a boil. I've since insulated the outside of my kettle and thats made it better.

 

[Wortgames]

I'm no plastics wizard, but I'd want to do some serious research about the type of plastic used if I'm actually boiling my wort in it. Mash-temperature water is one thing, but 90 minutes of boiling wort is something else.