Dry Hopping Advice

[muckanic]

Seems to make sense that you'll more aroma with the hop tea rather than just thowing cold hops into a cold wort...

Except that you are then attempting to extract a number of poorly water-soluble compounds into water rather than alcohol.

As an alternative to an external filter in the syphon line, I fit an internal cotton swab into the back of the fermenter outlet.

 

[debineko]

Except that you are then attempting to extract a number of poorly water-soluble compounds into water rather than alcohol.

Say what? :huh: In layman's terms please.

Poorly water-soluble compounds being the hops, I guess.

Are you referring to the fact that they don't dissolve completely away or simply to the fact that won't absorb (cold) water quickly (if so then steeping surely improves absorption)? How does their being poorly water-soluble relate to extracting (or not) flavour/aroma?

Are you saying that hop pellets are more soluble or at least more open to extraction of the good stuff in alcohol/wort? Would that be even truer for hot wort (@ flameout, for instance) or just as true for cold wort?

Kinda figuring it out in my head as I type, but not quite...

As an alternative to an external filter in the syphon line, I fit an internal cotton swab into the back of the fermenter outlet.

So you're saying throw them in loose and cold and worry about filtering later?

Might give the cotton swab a go sometime soon.

Cheers.

 

[Stuster]

So, the hop oils will dissolve better in alcohol than in water.

Two things about what you've been doing. First, teabags of hops are often not that fresh so this might be part of the issue. Second, dry hopping works better (or at least faster) at room temperature. If you're dry hopping with the beer cold, it'll take longer, though it should get there in the end.

I usually just throw them in the fermenter. They settle to the bottom and if you're careful you shouldn't really get much/any in the bottles/keg. Or even better, dry hop with some hop plugs or whole cones. :super:

 

[mikem108]

to keep the hops out when racking rig up some kind of filter set up. A stainless steel scrubby can be good for this

 

[debineko]

So, the hop oils will dissolve better in alcohol than in water.

Two things about what you've been doing. First, teabags of hops are often not that fresh so this might be part of the issue. Second, dry hopping works better (or at least faster) at room temperature. If you're dry hopping with the beer cold, it'll take longer, though it should get there in the end.

I usually just throw them in the fermenter. They settle to the bottom and if you're careful you shouldn't really get much/any in the bottles/keg. Or even better, dry hop with some hop plugs or whole cones. :super:

Of course, the oils. It's always the oils. Makes sense.

I ended up making a 300ml hop tea (for what it's worth = nothing apparently) with a second 15g (not 12g) teabag of amarillo and added that, but was surprised by the lack of aroma from the tea, so could well be a freshness issue, as you say. Plus I'm getting rid of old stock from my first outing to the LHBS so definately not all that fresh.

For the golden ale I used pellets and things were noticeable better than the teabags, but I'll get my hands on some plugs and give them a go. The cones I'll try on their own

By cold wort I meant room temp. (17-20C) or at least not chilled, but I take your point.

Thanks for setting me straight on the fine art of dry hopping :beer:

 

[Hutch]

I ended up making a 300ml hop tea (for what it's worth = nothing apparently) with a second 15g (not 12g) teabag of amarillo and added that, but was surprised by the lack of aroma from the tea, so could well be a freshness issue, as you say. Plus I'm getting rid of old stock from my first outing to the LHBS so definately not all that fresh.

You've hit on an important point here - old/stale/oxidised hops are not suited to aroma or dry-hopping (in fact not much good for anything!).

You really want to be using the freshest hops you can get for dry-hopping (above sponsors are a good source). Some unreputable LHBS have hops sitting on the shelf, for god know's how long, and not refridgerated as they should.

The tell-tale sign of old hops is a pale brown discolouration. Fresh hops are usually nice and green, with some variation depending on variety. Pellets should crumble between your fingers, and have a strong aroma. Stale hops tend to have a more cheesey musty character.
Storing them in air-tight bags (or better vacuum sealed) in the freezer is the best way to prolong their shelf-life.

...Ah, if only Craftbrewer were around 10 years ago!

 

[muckanic]

A stainless steel scrubby can be good for this

For something that is reputedly so inert, I find these scrubbies to have a surprising amount of odour. Enquiring minds start to wonder what would happen after a week or two's contact time in an acidic solution ...

 

[drsmurto]

This was 28gms of Styrian Golding flowers the pellets will sink to the bottom when the fermentation finished


Pumpy

Have a Deuchars IPA i want to dry hop with some styrian golding plugs and wondered whether people break up the plugs and drop them in or toss them in whole. And whether or not they sink or swim?

Funny thing is i havent dry hopped in secondary for ages - i tend to dry hop in the keg with a teaball.

Muckanic - funny that. I use acid to dissolve metal at work in a lab (solid gold in aqua regia) but happily throw a metal tea ball in to my keg and wonder why it corrodes......

 

[newguy]

Have a Deuchars IPA i want to dry hop with some styrian golding plugs and wondered whether people break up the plugs and drop them in or toss them in whole. And whether or not they sink or swim?

I haven't used plugs for a very long time, but when I did I just threw them in whole. They naturally break in very short order once they hit the beer.

 

[drsmurto]

Cool. How many plugs is too many?

 

[newguy]

One more than you have.

 

[scrumpy]

has anybody tryed dry hopping in the bottle....dropping a couple of pellets in before capping.

Is this a stupid idea? I know there would be a few floaties in the bottle, but if your not worried about that would it be benificial to the brew???? :beerbang:

 

[flattop]

Too strong i would think, dry hopping is around 10-15gms per say 20 liters.... 10gms is probably about 15-20 pellets all different size and shape

 

[manticle]

I'm about to dry hop a LCPA clone tomorrow, using 12g Chinook into my secondary fermenter.

I know the wiki article says "use a hop bag or sock", but can I just chuck the pellets straight into the fermenter and let it all settle into the trub over the week?

Also, will I need to slosh it around a bit to get the aroma through all the beer, rather than just the bottom of the fermenter where the pellets have settled?

Cheers.

I know you said pros and I'd like to reiterate that I am not one. However I have dry hopped a few times and I usually (read always) just throw pellets or flowers straight in, leave for a few days, let sink then rack or bottle (depending on stage of ferment).

Most sinks to the bottom. I've had very occasional hop floaties but they are minimal and inoffensive and being a homebrewer rather than a brewery and not entering comps, I don't care. Homebrew = homemade.

Throw in, let settle, you should be fine.

 

[scott_penno]

has anybody tryed dry hopping in the bottle....dropping a couple of pellets in before capping.

Is this a stupid idea? I know there would be a few floaties in the bottle, but if your not worried about that would it be benificial to the brew???? :beerbang:

Not a stupid idea at all. I've occassionally thought about buying a slab of Melbourne or Victoria Bitter (something quite plain) and dropping one or two pellets of a large number of different varieties into each bottle to get a feel for the difference between each hop variety...

sap.

 

[chappo1970]

Not a stupid idea at all. I've occassionally thought about buying a slab of Melbourne or Victoria Bitter (something quite plain) and dropping one or two pellets of a large number of different varieties into each bottle to get a feel for the difference between each hop variety...

sap.

Guys tried it with very mixed success, yeah? Either it was a gusher or it was dead flat. Dry hop at fermentation after high kraussen or in the keg for the best results in my very humble opinion.

Cheers

Chappo

 

[matti]

I tried hopping every way you can think of and it all comes down to desired /aquired taste.

Dry hopping into bottle is a bit of waste of hops IMHO.
I found it didn't do much to the beer. It was an APA and I didn't fancy having hops in the bottle when pooring.
I tried a hop pellets in a glass and it added to aroma but didn't last the whole drink.

If you want to the best results of dry hopping for either keg or bottle dry hopping into secondary fermenter is always the best.
Bottles tend to keep aroma a little longer stored correctly but kegs don't last long enough to loose aroma in my house.

Cherio

 

[manticle]

I know you said pros and I'd like to reiterate that I am not one. However I have dry hopped a few times and I usually (read always) just throw pellets or flowers straight in, leave for a few days, let sink then rack or bottle (depending on stage of ferment).

Most sinks to the bottom. I've had very occasional hop floaties but they are minimal and inoffensive and being a homebrewer rather than a brewery and not entering comps, I don't care. Homebrew = homemade.

Throw in, let settle, you should be fine.

November 2008 says warmbeer may not care what you think anymore manticle you very dumb, dumb man.

As to pellets in bottles - if you're a fan of that grassy randled taste then maybe. Could always try it in half the bottled brew and compare.