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Digital Thermostats

Discussion in 'Electronics, Hardware & Software' started by parktho, 14/1/10.

 

  1. Banshee

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    Posted 7/8/10
    I use two in my brew system.
    One is a thermostat which i use in my HLT
    Second is a thermometer which I use in my mash tun.

    The thermpmeter probe in the mash tun (kettle) is place inside my pickup pipe. I turn my pick up pipe so it is facing up and place the probe down the tube. This way when I stir the mash it does not get tangled.

    I have had them for years and no problems with em.
     
  2. Silo Ted

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    Posted 7/8/10
    Thanks Wolfy that was a concern I had too, the long term performance of plastic probe and cable. Apart from that, is the electronic device accurate under hot liquid conditions?

    Banshee - with your HLT setup do you use an after market SS probe and temp-rated insulated cable, or have you found the standard probe to be fine after repeated use? Just looking at the SS probe on Craftbrewer, but not sure if this is compatible with the cheap ebay controllers. I would be looking at only one unit that can be moved from mash day to fermentation fridge when I get one. So a probe wont be hard installed in the kettle but just dangle in there.

    http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955
     
  3. Banshee

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    Posted 7/8/10
    I use the probe that came with it. The one with the little rubber tip.
    I have compared the temp with various thermometers and it is very accurate.
    I use mine on my fermaentaion fridge as a guide as I use a liquid filled analogue thermostat in my fridges.
     
  4. raven19

    Homer is God

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    Posted 7/8/10
    I use one for my HLT, with the probe inside a beerbelly thermowell. Works a treat.
     
  5. Silo Ted

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    Posted 8/8/10
    Thanks, think I will grab myself one. Before I do, can someone explain to me what a PID controller is, and how does it differ from the the temperature controllers being discussed on this thread?
     
  6. LethalCorpse

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    Posted 8/8/10
    PID stands for Proportional, Integral and Differential. An on/off controller like most of those discussed here is very simple - when the measured temp is below the setpoint, its output is on, when it's above the setpoint, it's off (or vice-versa for one controlling a cooler rather than a heater). A PID controller has a variable output, dependant on the difference between the measured temp and the setpoint (the error). Its output is the sum of three values: P - proportional to the current error , I - proportional to the integral of the error (the sum of all previous errors - allows it to approach the correct value over time) and D - proportional to the derivative of the error, (used to overcome fast changes in error). More information here
     
  7. felon

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    Posted 8/8/10
    I would love to have one to control my HLT but I run a 3600w element 15A. I am not confident enough yet to work out how to set up a relay to switch from this unit.
    P.s My one has just arrived and I am currently wiring it to run a second fermentation/conditioning fridge.
     
  8. Banshee

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    Posted 8/8/10
    Look here they have 16amp ones which means no need for a relay.

    http://www.kegking.com.au/Downloads/Catalo...rice%20List.pdf
     
  9. LethalCorpse

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    Posted 8/8/10
    If you're not confident enough to hook it up to a relay, why the hell do you think you're fine to wire it up to run a fridge?
     
  10. felon

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    Posted 8/8/10
    I have just rewired my house and garage with the help of a sparky mate. All of my circuits are RCD protected including 32A 415V in my garage. General wiring is easy and help is just a phone call away. If I let the smoke out of a 20 year old fridge that's a great excuse to upgrade my fridge knowing that my house won't burn down.
     
  11. leonjw

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    Posted 11/10/10
    Hi Everyone

    Does anyone know what the specs are for the NTC probe that comes with the STC1000 mini temp controllers off ebay?

    I am looking at making myself a new probe for my temp controller but don't know what NTC thermistor to buy :(

    Any help would be great.

    cheers
     
  12. Defacto

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    Posted 15/11/10
    sorry to bump this thread, but raven's case looks damn good. raven where did you get your case/supporting parts from?
     
  13. Silo Ted

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    Posted 15/11/10
    Looks like the one I used, its about $6 from Jaycar.
     
  14. MeLoveBeer

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    Posted 15/11/10
    As Silo Ted said it's from Jaycar... if I remember tonight I'll post the complete jaycar part list if you're interested (just brought all the parts to wire up another one this weekend).
     
  15. MeLoveBeer

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    Posted 16/11/10
    As promised, this is the list of part numbers from Jaycar I used to wire up my stc-1000:

    1 x HB6012 Black Enclosure (197x113x63mm), $6.95 Ea
    2 x PS4094 SKT PNL Mains Aus White, $7.95 Ea
    1 x HM3204 Terminal block, $4.95 Ea
    1 x PP4009 Plg Pnl IEC320 Snap In, $4.95

    Note that the terminal block I brought is a 12way 60A, so you could go smaller if they have stock (which they didn't at my local) and I already had the wire and power cord to hook it all up.
     
  16. Defacto

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    Posted 16/11/10
    you guys are absolute legends!!!!
     
  17. raven19

    Homer is God

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    Posted 16/11/10
    Yep Jaycar was where I went to get all my goodies for the build.
     
  18. pimpsqueak

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    Posted 25/2/11
    Just finished wiring and mounting my STC1000. Tested and it works a beaut.
    Wanted to say thanks for all the handy contributions in this thread. (I was fine working off the supplied wiring diagram, but it doesn't hurt to have a peek at what others are doing.

    Now to find an appropriate fridge...
     
  19. ada

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    Posted 25/2/11
  20. rude

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    Posted 25/2/11
    Love seeing pics, whats that blue thing in you're fridge ada & do youput youre probe against the side of your'e fermenter.

    Here's a few pics of my fridge mate nothing flash but it gets the job done

    IMG_2956_1_1.JPG

    IMG_2957_2_1.JPG
     
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