Dedicated Rims Guide, Problems & Solution Thread

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The Gas Man

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Where would be the best spot to measure / control the mash temp?
 

Cocko

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The hottest point is where your conversion will be happening, so in essence - In your RIMS tube, out let makes the easiest and most sense.

DO NOT run your temp controller from your grain bed and ignore the HX - in any system.

Again, you want your hottest point to be you monitor, this is where conversions will happen, so at the outlet of the HX is best.

Cheers
 

verysupple

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I have one that I think is the same (but with threaded connections) and when I walked in to the LHBS and said,

"... and I also want to get one of those brown 12 V pumps."

they said,

"No, you don't"

"Why? Are they that bad?"

"Well..."

Then I explained that I only wanted it to recirc cold water through my immersion chiller and they said it was fine for that. But it sounded like anything requiring a bit more grunt or higher temps wasn't a great idea.

I've also read other threads where people have tried to use them for recirculating mash systems and they upgraded pretty quickly to either a Kaixin or March pump. If you search here I'm sure you'll find plenty of reports of their suitability for different tasks. If it's the pump I think it is then it's commonly known as a "Little Brown Pump" of LBP.
 

JDW81

I make wort, the yeast make it beer.
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I've been running a RIMS for the last few brews now, and process wise its all sweet. I'm getting good efficiency, no scorching, good ramp times and no leaks (now I've replaced the shitty QDs with camlocks).

I've been wondering what others do with the residual wort in their system? Do you count it is MLT dead space and write it off or return it to the mash?

This is what my system currently looks like (I'm still waiting on for finances to allow a tiered stand with casters).

IMG_2022.JPG

Cheers,

JD

Edit: Sorry about the sideways picture, haven't got the time this morning to solve that problem.
 

MastersBrewery

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JDW81 said:
I've been running a RIMS for the last few brews now, and process wise its all sweet. I'm getting good efficiency, no scorching, good ramp times and no leaks (now I've replaced the shitty QDs with camlocks).

I've been wondering what others do with the residual wort in their system? Do you count it is MLT dead space and write it off or return it to the mash?

This is what my system currently looks like (I'm still waiting on for finances to allow a tiered stand with casters).

IMG_2022.JPG

Cheers,

JD

Edit: Sorry about the sideways picture, haven't got the time this morning to solve that problem.
when changing hoses use a small stainless jug to drain hoses into and add to the kettle. The simple things are sometimes the easiest to overlook.
 

fraser_john

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JDW81 said:
I've been running a RIMS for the last few brews now, and process wise its all sweet. I'm getting good efficiency, no scorching, good ramp times and no leaks (now I've replaced the shitty QDs with camlocks).

I've been wondering what others do with the residual wort in their system? Do you count it is MLT dead space and write it off or return it to the mash?

This is what my system currently looks like (I'm still waiting on for finances to allow a tiered stand with casters).

IMG_2022.JPG

Cheers,

JD

Edit: Sorry about the sideways picture, haven't got the time this morning to solve that problem.
Dump it. Towards the end of sparging into kettle, my system tends to let small particles through as the wort drains through the false bottom, once I start to see this I tend to stop the sparge and dump about 2 litres of wort.

I just account for it in the calculations.
 

seamad

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I have a ball valve on the rims tube entry, close it off and then connect sparge water. When finished a 5l jug under to drain out.
 

mfeighan

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i fly sparge and just connect my hlt hose to where my mlt hose was so the leftovers in the tube etc are just water by the end of it so i dont care and just empty it
 

JDW81

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Cheers Lads. I don't like to waste wort so I think I'll go with the collect and return method for the time being.

JD
 

DJ_L3ThAL

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Cocko said:
The hottest point is where your conversion will be happening, so in essence - In your RIMS tube, out let makes the easiest and most sense.

DO NOT run your temp controller from your grain bed and ignore the HX - in any system.

Again, you want your hottest point to be you monitor, this is where conversions will happen, so at the outlet of the HX is best.

Cheers
Necro here... I am being patient for 5-10mins of slow recircing after mashing in to let the grain bed settle and turning the RIMS element on, but the temperature inside the mash tun drops a couple degrees lower than the desired mash temp. To counter this and ensure the centre of the mash is at the actual mash temp I crank my STC temp slightly above the desired temp to get a faster ramp of the mash tun back to desired temp. Does this mean for that period the conversion is happening at the higher temp of my RIMS outlet??? Might be in for some more fuller bodied beers than expected from my first few batches on the new rig.

I would have thought the sheer bulk temp of the mash tun in the centre would govern what temp conversion is occurring at more so, because also the short distance of the RIMS tube return to the top of the mash would equalise as it mixes back in to the main mash only slightly higher as it ramps up to temp?

Would the best way be a dual temp control method where the mash tun and RIMS tube outlet are measured and controlled so that the RIMS knows to ramp, within reason so as to not overheat, but also keeps going until the mash tun step temp is reached? As I find with an STC measuring the RIMS outlet temp it would take way too long to do a mash step leaving the STC set to the actual desired mash temp. The lowish flow rate takes a while to completely exchanged the entire mash volume through the RIMS tube. I will measure the flow next brew day.

Finally I have similar return setup to the Blichmann auto sparge (just without the float valve), which stirs the top of the mash. I appear to need to keep this return flow low as well to stop channelling as a higher flow tends to dig out the top of the mash directly below where the return comes in. Or is this not actually "channeling" per say and just an uneven top mash surface? No measured efficiency issues so perhaps it is a non-issue??
 

Adr_0

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Essentially all of what's in your mash will move over the RIMS element and temp sensor, so all of the liquor will be exposed to that temp.

Your drop in temp in the mash is likely because you have cold spots, and you just need to mix/wait for everything to come up to temperature. The best way to tells this is where your PID output (%sent to the element) goes to a steady 1-5%, ie the temp going into the tube is equal to the set point.

A temp probe in the middle of the mash can helps with this too.

I think your answer is in flowrates (increase) rather than bumping the temp up. I think a degree or two would be fine (won't notice difference in body) but more than this you might.
 

DJ_L3ThAL

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Thanks for the detailed response. I did have a battle with my mill setting first two brews when I went 3V. Blindly reduced the gap setting to credit card thickness and that resulted in stuck recirc mash/piss poor flow and worried me about scorching my wort trying to step temps. Next brew will try nearing on full flow and see how that goes. Got an insulated mash tun and 10A RIMS element so there is no real reason I shouldn't be able to easily maintain temps and step at a reasonable speed.

Anyone got comment on the mash return "digging" into the top of the mash? Should I bother worrying about it if there doesn't seem to be any loss of efficiency? Thinking a higher flow rate will exacerbate the issue. Photo of what I'm referring to attached.
 

adzr

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Some fantastic ideas and information here. I have an idea in an attempt to eliminate the need to fabricate or buy a RIMS tube (the one at Keg King is over $200), but wanted some feedback to see whether this is likely to cause scorching of the wort.

Basically instead of having the heating element within the circulation pipe/hose, have it at the bottom of the mashtun under the false bottom. The temperature controller can either be in line within the hose/pipe, or just hanging over the side of the mashtun (this would be even easier and cheaper). The grains are contained within a grain bag to aid clean up and to keep them away from the heating element.

Note this is a diagram only. It is not to scale and things aren't in the exact place they would be normally (eg. pump needs to be lower than the mashtun if it's not self priming).

My key concern is if the flow of wort over the element is quick enough to ensure any loose grain particles that have escaped out of the bag don't get burnt. Any feedback on this concept would be greatly appreciated!

mashtun idea.png
 

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