ICB - tight shorts and poor attitude. **** yeah!
- Reaction score
Kev, its probably not just flour, but a combination of a little flour and some protien buildup on the element. It gets hot, break material forms on the surface, and if there is much suspended crap in the liquid, it gets trapped in with the break material. All adds up to a nice insulating layer. I get it on my rims element (its really too high a heat density to be ideal)Did your brewhouse efficiency change from the mill adjustment?
I've only done 2 brews so far on my new 3V with an internal RIMS, both have suffered from the flour getting stuck to the heating element.
View attachment 52879
As soon as it gets like this the elements boil dry protection is continuously cutting it out, making mashouts above 72 virtually impossible.
I always commence the recirc for a minute before switching on the RIMS controller, and I can run the March Pump at full flow without getting a stuck mash, so plenty of flow. I'm using about 3.5L/kg so plenty of water in there. I'm currently crushing at 0.889mm so thinking of trying 1mm to see if it reduces the flour on the element.
Solution for me was - recirculate for a while before turing on the element. It clears the wort up and that significantly reduces the problem.
So what i do is:
Drop in water frfom the HLT at "close" to my target stirke water temp, get it perfect with the rims.
Rims element off, pump off - mash in to a 55 P rest.
Begin re-circulation, get the recirc settled and flow rate more or less where I want it. That takes about 5 minutes, which is as long as I want my P rest anyway and is also long enough for the recirculation to have started to clear the wort up nicely.
Element on and begin ramp to first conversion rest. proceed with mash.
Mash out - unless you have a pretty low density element (which neither you or I do) then to get wort up to a full MO temp is going to mean the element surface gets pretty warm, more than warm enough to start to form break on the surface in decent amounts. If I am not careful at the start, then at the end, I'll get a bit of burning at the element surface and can struggle to get to full MO temps (you will get the overheat cut-out thing). But if I am careful at the start of the mash and the element is nice and clean before I start to get into the higher temps - I manage OK. The element always has a light layer of goo on it at the end of the mash, but it just wipes away.
I know that you are already recirculating for a minute before turning on the element - make that 5ish minutes to get visibly clear return wort & I think it will help.