WILLIE SIMPSON
"Crown Loses Shine"
It pains me to write this but if I had ordered the bottle of Crown Ambassador 2010 sitting in front of me in a landmark Melbourne restaurant, I'd be sending it straight back.
As my host is the man responsible for it - the head brewer for Carlton & United Breweries, John Cozens - I let good manners prevail. Besides, we've just enjoyed a leisurely bottle of '09 Crown Ambassador over several courses of tasty tucker.
This brew has mellowed nicely during the past 12 months and developed some pleasant flavour nuances, particularly as it warms.
But the 2010 vintage - $90 in bottle shops - is something else, I'm afraid. The first whiff is rank and confronting, while a quick swallow confirms a certain unwanted presence. I wait for my host's reaction.
"It does have a hint of sulphur," Cozens says. "Which I think is due to this year's hops. It's a bit pongy at first but it does flash off quickly. It does have the potential to be a better beer in a year's time."
Beer tasting is highly subjective. Where Cozens detected a whiff of sulphur, I reckon it's chock-full of feral yeast flavours and the telltale presence of wet horse blanket. Brettanomyces, to be precise, a wild yeast character known as brett, favoured by Belgian lambic beer producers and some English farmhouse cider makers but feared by most winemakers and brewers.
How on earth did it find its way into this third vintage of Crown Ambassador?
Cozens puts the flavour variation down to the Galaxy hops and the different conditions they experienced while harvesting them at the Myrtleford hop garden in mid-March.
"Last year it was sunny, I was wearing a hat and there wasn't much water in the river," Cozens says.
"This year we picked in the rain, we got rather damp and the hops were noticeably greener and bigger."
While Crown Ambassador is bittered with regular Pride of Ringwood hops, the fresh, unkilned Galaxy hops are added later in the brewing process for flavour and aroma.
"I think we'll get more of a vintage variation this year," he says. "We used pretty much the same formula as last year but added a small amount of '09 Ambassador, which had been in French oak for 12 months."
The wood-aged beer accounted for about 7 per cent of the 2010 vintage, comprising some 7000 numbered long-neck bottles. The wood-aged portion was added to the current batch immediately before bottling.
Could it be that one of those wooden barrels, which previously held Penfolds white wine, was infected with brett, I ask? "We had them all thoroughly tested and they were fine," he says. "There may be a slight bottle-to-bottle variation."
Cozens wants Crown Ambassador to be taken seriously but my tasting of the 2010 vintage suggests it will have a lot of ground to make up on that score.
Crown Ambassador Reserve 2010, 750ml, $90.
Crown Ambassador 2009 (10.2 per cent)
Murky copper-amber. Aroma: toffee, faint spice and winey notes. Palate: sweetish toffee/caramel notes upfront; some ripe tropical fruit mid-palate; caramel-laden finish with hints of dried peaches and cream and some hot alcohol notes as the beer warms up. Overall: mellow in character with some appealing dried-fruit notes.
Crown Ambassador 2010 (10.2 per cent)
Hazy copper-amber. Aroma: twang of wet horse blanket mixed with strong barnyard characters. Palate: harsh horsey flavour notes give way to sweet caramel, ripe fruit and a substantial, resinous bitterness, with a jangling, unbalanced finish. Overall: keep your money in your pocket.