Cool Wort In Pot Or Sealed Cube?

[Logman]

Awesome, going to give that a try on my next batch, thanks manticle :icon_cheers:

 

[Robbo2234]

I was thinking about do this myself,

I am not sure how i can ferment in the same cube if i have removed all the air. there would be no room for the krausen?

am I am missing somthing can some one point me in the right direction?

Thanks

 

[chunckious]

Once filled to the right level, I squeeze out the air, tighten and leave to cool. When cooled and when my starter is ready, I undo the cap which allows air back in and the liquid level drops.

 

[Robbo2234]

FACEPALM!

Thanks

 

[Truman42]

Syphoning - suck start your syphon with $2 turkey baster from the reject shop or wherever.

(Thanks once again for the demo, very informative, even my wife said she enjoyed it.)

Mate do you think I could find one of these anywhere?? I tried reject shops, hardware stores, $2.00 shops, Coles, Woolies, looked everywhere on Sunday and couldn't find one.

Anyway I bit the bullet and fitted a tap to my pot today at work with the help of one of our workshop guys. I even have a quick release air coupling that connects and disconnects my silicone hose.

My recipe says no chill so I would rather do it that way. but my HDPE cube is 17 litres and as i just read here further back I forgot about the no air gap so will buy a 10 litre cube from Bunnings.

Anyone know where I can get that no rinse sanitiser from somewhere over in the SE burbs of Melbourne? I dont want to buy online as I need it tomorrow night.

Thanks again for the advice.

 

[pk.sax]

Go to the pharmacy and buy a bottle of Hydrogen peroxide if ur in a hurry.

Dilute 3% H2O2 1 part to ~6-10 parts or so boiled and cooled and spray as a sanitizer.

Its pretty much the same cost buying from the pharmacy in 2X50 ml bottles as buying the brewshield/copper tun branded one from the HB shop.

 

[Logman]

I even have a quick release air coupling that connects and disconnects my silicone hose.

Where did you get that?

Anyone know where these are available, Bunnings? I checked out the sponsors but can't see them. I want a quick disconnect coming out of my March pump. At this stage I have a three piece tap with a barb on it.

 

[Truman42]

Where did you get that?

Anyone know where these are available, Bunnings? I checked out the sponsors but can't see them. I want a quick disconnect coming out of my March pump. At this stage I have a three piece tap with a barb on it.

Logman, We get them from Wurth as they supply a lot of our workshop supplies. However you should be able to get them from Hydraulic fittings suppliers such as Enzed or Pirtek.

heres a couple of pics.

 

[Logman]

Thanks, my hose looks like it's going to fall off eventually and I don't want to put it on with a hose clamp.

 

[Truman42]

Go to the pharmacy and buy a bottle of Hydrogen peroxide if ur in a hurry.

Dilute 3% H2O2 1 part to ~6-10 parts or so boiled and cooled and spray as a sanitizer.

Its pretty much the same cost buying from the pharmacy in 2X50 ml bottles as buying the brewshield/copper tun branded one from the HB shop.

Ok so this is no rinse? I can just spray it on and leave it?

 

[pk.sax]

Ok so this is no rinse? I can just spray it on and leave it?

Yep. All it will leave behind is water.

 

[brewn00b]

Probably a stupid question...
Would putting the hot wort into say 2 x 10L cubes, leaving them for 15mins or so so the cubes have some contact with the high temps then chuck them in an ice bath work well? Would the smaller volume of wort to be cooled be negligible when compared to just cooling 20L in a stainless pot? Currently only use a small pot for about 10L of extract so an ice bath has worked fine, but I am getting a bigger pot and trying to decide whether to no chill/buy a chiller/just try more ice.

 

[kelbygreen]

truman you could get them fittings at any place that sells air compressors to, but maybe hydraulics are SS and air chrome I dunno, I am offsiding for a drilling company now so will be able to find all this stuff out I guess! heaps of water, hydraulics and air going on all the time

 

[Truman42]

I can squeeze most of the air out of a 20 L cube filling even to just 15 L. This is the narrow oblong type although the FWK cubes I've used similarly. Usually I fill between 18-20L. The blue willow jerrys hold about 23 L filled to the top.

Both are the same thing and you can no chill in either and ferment in either.

Once filled to the right level, I squeeze out the air, tighten and leave to cool. When cooled and when my starter is ready, I undo the cap which allows air back in and the liquid level drops. Re-tighten, shake the **** out of it, undo the lid and add the starter, retighten then back off a couple of turns. Mostly enough headspace, occassionally I get a bit of leaking krausen but that's fine. I clean it up to avoid attractin fruit flies and so on but the brew inside should be safe enough. Saves transfers and the associated contamination risks and the blue jerrys are a very convenient shape.

manticle,

So can I do this with my 8 litres of wort in a 10 litre jerry? If so I what about an airlock or don't you really need it? Could I put my aquarium heater in the wort through the top and then just cover the opening with some gladwrap and a rubber band?

 

[sim]

Logman, We get them from Wurth as they supply a lot of our workshop supplies. However you should be able to get them from Hydraulic fittings suppliers such as Enzed or Pirtek.

heres a couple of pics.

Are they "pin-locks", as in when you disconnect them they hold on to the fluid in the line?

Cheers,
sim

 

[kymba]

i know it's a bit late, but instead of a baster i use a 60ml catheter syringe, not one that takes a needle. I got it from a feed store

if you use beer line you can charge the whole line in 1 draw - all you need is a bit of a bottling wand to join the beer line & the syringe

if you use 1/2" silicon tube it takes 4 draws for about 2m of hose - just jam the silicon hose into the big end of a fermenter tap & put the same bottling wand into the small end

I took some drunken photos a while back to illustrate. thread here

 

[manticle]

manticle,

So can I do this with my 8 litres of wort in a 10 litre jerry? If so I what about an airlock or don't you really need it? Could I put my aquarium heater in the wort through the top and then just cover the opening with some gladwrap and a rubber band?

8 L in a 10 L cube will be fine.

No idea about the heater as I've never used one - I think the cube in a sink/bath of water with the heater in that would be easier though. The main point of fermenting in the no chill cube is avoiding contamination issues from transfer and whatever else. Keep it simple. Transfer hot wort, let cool, add yeast, ferment.

No need for an airlock. Just back the lid off being tight and the gas will escape. If you notice the cube ballooning, you have the lid too tight.

 

[pips78]

Hey there
Im reading this thread as I about to do a BIAB and just working out the best way of chilling as i dont have a heat exchange. Is there any reason you cant put it in a fridge and get it to pitching temp straight after the boil (nothing in fridge) ??? Is this too hot for the fridge? Also would it be worth purging the head space in the cube with Co2 to avoid infection?
Cheers

 

[manticle]

Depending on the batch size, putting a sealed cube of hot wort in the fridge will cool the wort quicker than leaving it out. It won't be at pitching temp straight after the boil though - it will still take several hours. If you are going to wait several hours to chill, you may as well wait overnight and pitch the next day.

No chill or chill to my mind. Not partial chill or no chill almost a bit. The benefits of either method get lost with most compromises and both methods are tried, tested and stand on their own.

 

[Truman42]

8 L in a 10 L cube will be fine.

No idea about the heater as I've never used one - I think the cube in a sink/bath of water with the heater in that would be easier though. The main point of fermenting in the no chill cube is avoiding contamination issues from transfer and whatever else. Keep it simple. Transfer hot wort, let cool, add yeast, ferment.

No need for an airlock. Just back the lid off being tight and the gas will escape. If you notice the cube ballooning, you have the lid too tight.

Thanks mate, so am I right to assume that an airlock isn't needed because the pressure created during fermentation stops bad air getting in? And once fermentation slows down e.g. day five when I open up to add my dry hops, the jobs basically done so it doesn't matter if air gets in?
I agree with you about putting the heater in a bucket and wil do that.

One more question should I use two packets of the us 05 yeast I'm going to use in this recipe? Or will one packet do with eight liters.