mb-squared
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I have written previously about my brew rig here and that post generated some questions about the BCS-460 that I use to control everything and, specifically, how I've wired it up. So a short post about that. The last pic in that post shows my "control panel", which is just a $10 toolbox from Bunnings. Inside the toolbox is an SSR and the 24VAC transformer that comes with the Honeywell valve.
Before I get started, I am not an electrician nor do I claim to know what I'm doing. Electricity is a dangerous thing and you should not take this post as giving you license to connect some wires up and plug them in. You might die.
OK, with that aside, we can begin. Basically, the BCS closes the circuit on the DC side of the SSR when the temperature probe says the wort temp is too low. Closing the circuit on the DC side serves to close the circuit on the AC side, which powers the gas valve. Here is a diagram of how I wired it all together.
You'll see that I have a 24V indicator light wired into the mix. I highly recommend including this. The light comes on when the valve is open (i.e. burner on) and it is off when the valve is closed. If that light is on and your burner isn't, then something is wrong and you'd be smart to get it sorted sooner rather than later. This happens occasionally and (so far) it just means that the pilot has gone out. (As I mentioned in the previous post, the Honeywell has a thermocouple on the pilot, which makes sure that the valve won't open if the pilot has gone out.) But having the light there adds a layer of safety that I highly recommend.
I almost always run the rig with the BCS controlling things, but I've wired it up to run in manual mode too. Sometimes you just want to heat up some water without having to program the BCS.
For those who are not familiar with the BCS, here is a screenshot of mine.
As you can see, I have wired in 3 different temp probes (you can have up to 4 on the BCS-460 and 8 on the BCS-462). I use two of the probes to control my fermenters ("windy banks" and "sliding top") and the third one controls the gas valve on brew day.
OK, hope that is helpful to those who are considering going down the BCS path -- which I recommend! For those who are in the know with regards to wiring diagrams, constructive criticism would be beneficial to those who haven't yet wired theirs up yet.
matto
Before I get started, I am not an electrician nor do I claim to know what I'm doing. Electricity is a dangerous thing and you should not take this post as giving you license to connect some wires up and plug them in. You might die.
OK, with that aside, we can begin. Basically, the BCS closes the circuit on the DC side of the SSR when the temperature probe says the wort temp is too low. Closing the circuit on the DC side serves to close the circuit on the AC side, which powers the gas valve. Here is a diagram of how I wired it all together.
You'll see that I have a 24V indicator light wired into the mix. I highly recommend including this. The light comes on when the valve is open (i.e. burner on) and it is off when the valve is closed. If that light is on and your burner isn't, then something is wrong and you'd be smart to get it sorted sooner rather than later. This happens occasionally and (so far) it just means that the pilot has gone out. (As I mentioned in the previous post, the Honeywell has a thermocouple on the pilot, which makes sure that the valve won't open if the pilot has gone out.) But having the light there adds a layer of safety that I highly recommend.
I almost always run the rig with the BCS controlling things, but I've wired it up to run in manual mode too. Sometimes you just want to heat up some water without having to program the BCS.
For those who are not familiar with the BCS, here is a screenshot of mine.
As you can see, I have wired in 3 different temp probes (you can have up to 4 on the BCS-460 and 8 on the BCS-462). I use two of the probes to control my fermenters ("windy banks" and "sliding top") and the third one controls the gas valve on brew day.
OK, hope that is helpful to those who are considering going down the BCS path -- which I recommend! For those who are in the know with regards to wiring diagrams, constructive criticism would be beneficial to those who haven't yet wired theirs up yet.
matto