Considering grainfather purchase?

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Bribie G said:
Remember, the GF, the BM and the urn don't make beer. They produce wort which is just one, important of course, stage in the journey of barley to brain.
How true

And I wont mention that there are "other" systems that/can will control the all important fermentation, clarification, carbonation, chilling and serving all in the same vessel in an oxygen free environment else I run the risk of well being told to take my head out of somewhere!!

Wobbly
 
Killer Brew said:
I believe i read it can take up to 9kg although im yet to do it. That would get fairly close wouldn't it? Could always cheat and throw in some DME at start of boil.
You could always do two mashes and boil them down to one batch of ris.
 
Coodgee said:
Grain father can handle up to 30 litres. If you're anywhere near brisbane id be happy to give you a demo.
Thanks for the offer, but I am on the south coast of NSW, would love to see one in action.
 
I have seen the BM in action. Nice bit of kit and has great repeat ability. GF is pretty much the same sort of thing. Turn key with set and forget. If you can afford one then they are great bits of gear.

Personally I wouldn't own either of them as I could make one for far less and I do like to make my own gear ( and go thru endless hrs of fixing, fine tuning and swearing lots ) and like that feeling of accomplishment of making my own beer from gear scratch built form whatever I could get my hands on.

Thats not to say they are not worth it or you shouldnt get one. If your new to AG they are a great investment if you dont have the ability ( or just couldnt be bothered ) to make your own AG setup
 
Reedy said:
I'm also looking at getting a Grainfather so I can move up to AG brewing.
The only issue for me at this stage is some of comments/reviews I have read say that it can't handle higher ABV beers such as RIS or IIPA's (both of which I love & really want to try my hand at) due to the size of the grain bill required for a 20l recipe vs the capacity of the unit (up to 9kg I believe).
Would love to hear from anyone who uses a Grainfather who has done a RIS or similar ABV beer & how it stacks up.
I have done several brews with a 9kg grain bill on the Gf.Efficiency takes a bit of a hit but I can still achieve a preboil gravity of 1065.I modified the recirc hose into the top of the malt pipe by using a short length of half inch hose with a 90 degree elbow on it.
 
Coodgee said:
You could always do two mashes and boil them down to one batch of ris.
I did this on the Braumeister and picked up 3rd in the NSW comp with the RIS. it can be done on these systems, just requires a little effort.
 
My next brew in MY GF will be my 40th,My biggest grain bill is 8.5kg no problems, works well when adding rice hulls into grain to aid recirculation, I would highly recommend getting one, you won't be disappointed, comes with good instruction manual and easy to set up, use and keep clean.
 
Sorry to hijack the original thread but I'm in a similar situation and didn't want to start another new Grainfather thread. I've got two questions that I was hoping someone might be able to help me with.

My first question is this, I know the "standard" batch size from the instruction manual is 23L with a 28L boil, I would prefer to get something closer to 19L in the fermenter with maybe an ~24L boil (wont know for sure until I figure out the boil off rate, but I'm assuming about 5L an hour from the instructions). Depending on my efficiency, this could mean that my grain bill is smaller than 4.5kg. Is anyone else consistently doing batches with grain bills this size and does it work as well as it does for larger sizes? I know there are instructions in the manual that just say add more mash water and subtract from the sparge water later, but I was wondering if people have found any issues with having a high water to grain ratio?

My second question is about the 18L sparge water heater. Is it worth spending the extra money given that I have a 15L stockpot and could probably just heat the water on my stove, although it won't be as easy to be accurate with the temperature, and my stovetop is terrible. It only just gets 10L to the boil, so I'm assuming I could get ~14L to 75C (haven't tested though). My other concern is running a 2000W grainfather and a 2000W sparge water heater on the same circuit in my kitchen, too much?

PS, I've never brewed all grain before so apologies if some of these questions seem obvious. I'm not really considering buying a grainfather so much as I've already decided to buy one, but just hoping to get as much info as possible so I can start off on the right foot.
 
High water to grain ratio doesn't have any adverse effects, the Germans have been doing it for years by using hot water additions to do step mashing in most modern breweries over there.

On the power thing, I'd be wary of running 4000w on one circuit, even in a modern house or premises I've been at brew days where we have had a couple of systems going and tripped the circuits. For example we even tripped out Bacchus Brewing at a system wars brew day with an urn, a Braumeister and a couple of other things such as fans happening :blink:
 
Hi Btrots87.
I did my first GF brew last sat. Used a 40l birko urn with STC 1000 temp and GF with brauduino controller all on one circuit with no issues. I just heated the sparge water while mashing and then kept it at the correct temp to needed. ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1449453339.268361.jpg
 
I heat sparge water in a 19L Big W pot on my kitchen stovetop. I use a hand-held thermometer to check the temp.
 
btrots87 said:
Sorry to hijack the original thread but I'm in a similar situation and didn't want to start another new Grainfather thread. I've got two questions that I was hoping someone might be able to help me with.

My first question is this, I know the "standard" batch size from the instruction manual is 23L with a 28L boil, I would prefer to get something closer to 19L in the fermenter with maybe an ~24L boil (wont know for sure until I figure out the boil off rate, but I'm assuming about 5L an hour from the instructions). Depending on my efficiency, this could mean that my grain bill is smaller than 4.5kg. Is anyone else consistently doing batches with grain bills this size and does it work as well as it does for larger sizes? I know there are instructions in the manual that just say add more mash water and subtract from the sparge water later, but I was wondering if people have found any issues with having a high water to grain ratio?

My second question is about the 18L sparge water heater. Is it worth spending the extra money given that I have a 15L stockpot and could probably just heat the water on my stove, although it won't be as easy to be accurate with the temperature, and my stovetop is terrible. It only just gets 10L to the boil, so I'm assuming I could get ~14L to 75C (haven't tested though). My other concern is running a 2000W grainfather and a 2000W sparge water heater on the same circuit in my kitchen, too much?

PS, I've never brewed all grain before so apologies if some of these questions seem obvious. I'm not really considering buying a grainfather so much as I've already decided to buy one, but just hoping to get as much info as possible so I can start off on the right foot.
Running the grainfather and a sparge water heater is a bit less of an issue because when you're mashing, you're mashing with the 500w element not the 2000w element. Although I could be completely wrong about power usage but I assume this is why I've never run into problems running my crown urn and my Grainfather (while mashing) on the same circuit.

I haven't done smaller batches with my Grainfather but I see no reason why it wouldn't work. There's instructions in the manual which talks about brewing smaller batches and the slight adjustments to the water quantity that needs doing.

I think my Grainfather is a cracking piece of kit. While I've got a reasonable amount of space, it's far less pissing around with than a 3v system (for me) and I'm getting basically the best beer I've ever made from it. It's definitely not an automated system that will do everything for you - in fact, the steps you take to brew with the Grainfather are exactly the same as with a 3v system, it's just that its all contained in one main vessel plus your sparge water vessel, so in reality it's a 2v system. Keeping mash temperature consistent and easy sparging is what I like most about it.
 
I would recommend the urn it makes things a bit more luxurious. Just turn the urn on after you mash in and it's ready to go for the sparge. The surge protector on my power board will trip of i connect the grain father and urn at the same time but separate power points is fine
 
I use the pot on the stove method for the sparge water, couldn't justify the extra spend on top. Be aware that you will probably need to hit at least 80 degrees for your sparge water as you need it to be hitting 75 degrees as it runs through the wort.
 
I picked up a RoboBrew for my brother last week as he was keen to leap in at the deep end doing full mashes. Its hard to go past for the price. No doubt the Grainfather is better, but the different price points make them virtually incomparable. Like tossing up between a Great Wall and a Prado.

If it were me I would probably get a RoboBrew and a pump for recirc. I always was a bit of a tight ass though!
 
Bridges said:
I know this post goes back a fortnight or so, but I really do like Bridges' comment. Did one a while ago but I wasn't game to go the whole hog just in case, so I did a *******ised "1.5" reiterated mash just to do a prrof of concept sort of thing. Admittedly it was not on a 1V system, but it worked absolutely flawlessly.

When I get back to the batcave, I'm happy to do a proper reiterated mash (though, on the second mash I think I'll put in some rice hulls just in case seeing I've got a kilo of them left). Haven't finally decided what to brew, but winter is coming quickly, and I do love a good stout, so a RIS may be on the cards.

Happy to go one step at a time, so a 20% brew will have to wait!

Thanks Bridges.
 
btrots87 said:
My second question is about the 18L sparge water heater. Is it worth spending the extra money given that I have a 15L stockpot and could probably just heat the water on my stove, although it won't be as easy to be accurate with the temperature, and my stovetop is terrible. It only just gets 10L to the boil, so I'm assuming I could get ~14L to 75C (haven't tested though). My other concern is running a 2000W grainfather and a 2000W sparge water heater on the same circuit in my kitchen, too much?
You can always sparge with water straight out of the tap. Saw QldKev do it in a vid and thought, why not? Still got 80% mash efficiency without the hassle of heating sparge water. I think there's still quite a lot of residual heat in the grain that it probably doesn't matter that much.
 
Bribie G said:
High water to grain ratio doesn't have any adverse effects, the Germans have been doing it for years by using hot water additions to do step mashing in most modern breweries over there.
Thanks Bribie, that makes me feel better about the smaller batch brews.

Does anyone know if the temperature setting on the urns works by applying full power to the element and then turning off when its at temp, or by supplying a constant amount of lower power to the element? I suspect its the first one but was just wondering.

I've had a look at my fuse box and can only see one circuit breaker labelled 'power'. Even with the grainfather set to mash and the urn turned on that's already ~2500w (~10.5 amps) split across 2 powerpoints. That should be fine on its own I think but if there's only one circuit wouldn't the rest of the stuff in my house potentially add up to an overload and trip the circuit? It's a small rental place and judging by the amount of light switches that aren't connected to anything I have my concerns about the wiring already. That said I'm definitely not an electrician and I could be missing something here (or just overthinking it).
 
The urn is either on at full power or off. I wouldn't worry about the power man it's all within the capability of most domestic supplys.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top