Can You Make Commerical Quality Beer With Kits?

[np1962]

Thansk for the info, the way they write it out i assumed 1.7kg = 340 IBU or 1kg = 200IBU <_< Do you have any idea why the details on the can are equal to per Kg? seems strange.

Not sure what's on the can, got an old one in the shed and will look tomorrow.
The following is an excerpt from the Coopers website Homebrew FAQ
"
The quoted Home Brew bitterness and colour figures seem very high!
The figures we quote for colour and bitterness are specified for the product inside the can at the time of packaging. Of course, the product is concentrated, hence the seemingly high figures. The figures become more realistic once they are plugged into a formula for estimating the colour and bitterness of the reconstituted and fermented brew.

To calculate the bitterness of the brew: multiply the quoted product bitterness by the weight of the product (1.7kg)^* and divide by the total brew volume (normally 23 litres).
^* We use the weight because our quoted colour/bitterness figures are base on a weight/volume dilution.

Product Bitterness x 1.7 / Brew Volume = Total Bitterness before fermentation

As an example, if a brew is made with Mexican Cerveza up to a volume of 23 litres:

270 x 1.7 / 23 = 20 IBU (International Bitterness Units)
This figure represents the brew bitterness prior to fermentation. Generally, fermentation reduces colour and bitterness by between 10 to 30%. So final bitterness of the fermented brew may be anything from 14 to 18 IBU.

Colour may be calculated in the same way. Ensure to add the colour contribution of all ingredients together. Colour figures are quoted for liquid extract are at the time of packaging as these products will darken with time. The darkening process is accelerated by exposure to elevated temperature."

Hope that helps
Nige

 

[Dave86]

Apparently there has been a bit of confusion about the coopers specs in the past. I sent this to coopers last july:

Hi was just wondering whether the method listed in the FAQs on your site is correct for calculating IBUs? (and ebc) On the Aussiehomebrewer.com forums here: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...mp;#entry337915 in post 13, a purported email from someone at coopers suggests an alternative method of calculating IBUs from your kits. I was going to brew a dark ale kit this weekend and was just curious which method should be used as there is a diffence of about 10 IBU between the two methods.

Recieved this:

Yes, the method on the FAQs is correct. I was the one who gave the incorrect formula by email because I thought the values given to us from the Brewhouse were in vol/vol.



Regards,



Frank Akers

Home Brew Advisor

Coopers Brewery

Adelaide, SA

Hopefully the info is right now

Dave

 

[caleb]

My uncle does... stickler for cleanliness (wash everything twice was his advice) and ages everything for at least three months.

 

[Fourstar]

Hope that helps
Nige

Cheers Nige, Not that i will probabaly use the info anytime soon but i will commit it to memory!

 

[np1962]

Cheers Nige, Not that i will probabaly use the info anytime soon but i will commit it to memory!

Fourstar
I brew AG now but nice to know when asked a question by those less furtunate B)

 

[chappo1970]

That's not a hard and fast rule, even for AG brewing. Sugar should be used with purpose. ie, you should know why you are using plain sugar and how much, not just "upping the fermentables".

+1
My Aussie lager with sugaz gives Fosters a good name.... h34r: