Brewstand Top?

[kelbygreen]

Ok one more thing for my brew stand.

I have not welded before so I have built it out of timber, I have the tools to do it and dont have to learn to weld and waste metal doing so lol. Any way I was thinking of putting a sheet of steel ontop about 1-2mm thick (I can always add braces where needed). But after thinking about it, its going to cost more for the top then the stand cost to build (unless that sheet at work doesnt get used this week and I flog it) lol.

So my other brain snap was to put tongue and groove flooring ontop and then fibro. I did consider ply wood and chipboard but after further procrastination I thought chip board will swell and the glue holding both may let go under heat. Then the reality hit that a solid bit of timber will be best. Underneath was going to be decking or flooring any way.

I would consider plywood if some one else has used it with heat and its been good. I am building this stand to be permanent so I dont want to replace stuff after 6 months. The frame has been glued, nailed and coach bolted together so its not going anywhere. I should have room (I hope) underneath to add a HERMS later and will be room for pump and gas bottle/s.

I guess all I need is confirmation or other ideas. I have used a fibro sheet as a wind shield and it was brittle after 1 use but it did get full flames touching it. Also as I use a esky I will prob have to use it as a heat shield there to. last brew I was recirculating and the lid was close to the pot now it has bubbles in the plastic <_< .

Cheers
Kelby

 

[Spork]

If you're a sloppy bugger like me I'd go a sheet of stainless, or aluminium over a timber structure. Will be so much easier to clean.

 

[kelbygreen]

yeah but I dont want to spend heaps on it. As I say I might be able to get some at work but will have to wait and see.

 

[kymba]

yeah but I dont want to spend heaps on it. As I say I might be able to get some at work but will have to wait and see.

use 2 sheets of mdf glued and screwed on top of each other, about 12mm thick. made a workbench like this and it was indestructable. finish with a few coats of mdf primer and few coats of glossy enamel

yeah it has the potential to go all warped and swell up n shit, but you state that you need to use timber so you are going to need to finish the stand with something to stop the ingress of liquids anyway

or finish it off with thin stainless, say 0.6 - 0.8mm thick

 

[hsb]

I just have bricks laid flat on the spaced decking or whatever you would call it on top of my wooden brewstand.

On top of them sits an Italian Spiral burner with no problems, an old Dvd player case is a windshield round the burner stand.

I made mine pretty solid, but bricks seem like better/cheaper insulation than metal?

I just used decking oil stuff given for free by the timber yard to waterproof it all.

 

[kelbygreen]

yeah but my 3 ring burner will sit straight onto the top. Well I am thinking of making a frame for it. I did think timber would be ok if the flames not touching but would like that added security, would hate to come out and the whole sheds alight lol I think I got a sheet of fiber cement laying around anyway so wont take much. vila board would prob be even better but see what I have around first.

Still not to sure on the mdf I hate the stuff lol apart from that its really bad for you and I hate wearing a dust mask

 

[davewaldo]

I used a large 600x600 porcelain tile for the top of my brewstand. Very hard wearing, tolerates heat and super easy to clean. Looks great too. As I only needed one tile I got it as a free sample! But a few tiles would be cheap as!

 

[wakkatoo]

My brewstand has the fibro cement sheeting. 2 years old and no probs at all. At some stage I will get round to changing it's boring grey colour! Easy to fit, just cut to size and fixed with self-tappers.

 

[kelbygreen]

yeah I got tiles laying around, Again I was not sure how they will tolerate heat as I brew on my bbq lid and at the end of the boil it is way to hot to touch even for a second. I guess in your situation dave it is alright but it will get a fair bit of heat on my end. I guess they are baked in a oven at some stage so they may hold up.

 

[TidalPete]

I used waterproof ply stained & estapolled & attached to my RHS brewframe with ss self-tappers. Don't even consider MDF because sooner or later it IS going to swell & disintegrate from water damage even if estapolled/painted. My first choice was ss or ally sheet but because of budgetary restraints I chose the cheaper option. 5 years old & counting with no problems yet.
Can post a pic if you're interested?

TP

 

[kelbygreen]

yeah pics would be good pete. do you have a burner sitting ontop of it?? Thats my main problem I can see.

I would never used mdf in my house its banned to even come near. Although the existing skirting boards will stay untill I replace all the old horse hair plaster. I was considering form work ply or some red tongue, But again the heat issue.

I do have enough ceramic tiles to build about 5 of them but I will still need a base and might be worth putting fibro or tile underlay under it and thinking of using flexible tile glue and heat resistant silicone instead of grout so they can move if they do swell from the heat. They may crack but I cannot see them exploding.

 

[Yob]

I do have enough ceramic tiles to build about 5 of them but I will still need a base and might be worth putting fibro or tile underlay under it and thinking of using flexible tile glue and heat resistant silicone instead of grout so they can move if they do swell from the heat. They may crack but I cannot see them exploding.

KG, Im having to make a benchtop for the swap day... and well I guess for me too.. ha!.. I was planning on having 2 layers of cement sheet, separated by a bunch of washers.. so kind of making a snadwich panel with an air gap in the middle.. top layer gets brittle, just unscrew and put a new one in.. I havnt fitted the second layer in the piccie but i think you'll get the idea im going for... maybe im going down the wrong road but hay it's cool to give it a go.. if it fails I will re-think...

though for my general purpose I dont think I need it as it's for an elec. HLT but want to build it so if it does need a burner there it can handle it.

 

[pk.sax]

You could do 3 layers of pavers if the brewstand can handle it and have:

Layer 1: sealed between pavers.
Layer 2: pavers arranged in pattern allowing drainage in between.
Layer 3: pavers on top layer, arranged tight but with little gaps between them to allow spills to drain and the tiles to expand.

Cement the layers together and you have a benchtop that can be washed down as required, will take heat. And if you happen to crack a paver, just remove and replace that one.

Be pretty heavy though. Maybe use terra-cotta tiles instead of pavers for top layer (3).

 

[kelbygreen]

yeah sounds HD practical maybe overkill?? Well I think I will go with a timber top and then cement sheeting I will put tiles on but I think I may just lay them loose for first say 3 brews to see how they hold up so if they break I can just remove them easy. Not like the tiles will cost me anything so a trial would be good. I may look for heavier tiles at bunnings this arvo as well, Also see they have steel sheeting not massive but may fit under 1 burner. I think last time I looked at them for a heat sheild they where expensive.

 

[TidalPete]

yeah pics would be good pete. do you have a burner sitting ontop of it?? Thats my main problem I can see.

I would never used mdf in my house its banned to even come near. Although the existing skirting boards will stay untill I replace all the old horse hair plaster. I was considering form work ply or some red tongue, But again the heat issue.

I do have enough ceramic tiles to build about 5 of them but I will still need a base and might be worth putting fibro or tile underlay under it and thinking of using flexible tile glue and heat resistant silicone instead of grout so they can move if they do swell from the heat. They may crack but I cannot see them exploding.

KG,

If you can't weld then consider using Dexion shelving to make your brewframe? Dexion is slotted angle (far stronger than the Bunnings stuff) & is usually available new & second-hand from shelving companies. Very adjustable & easy to use.
Here's that pic as promised.


TP

 

[pk.sax]

yeah sounds HD practical maybe overkill?? Well I think I will go with a timber top and then cement sheeting I will put tiles on but I think I may just lay them loose for first say 3 brews to see how they hold up so if they break I can just remove them easy. Not like the tiles will cost me anything so a trial would be good. I may look for heavier tiles at bunnings this arvo as well, Also see they have steel sheeting not massive but may fit under 1 burner. I think last time I looked at them for a heat sheild they where expensive.

Hehe. If I ever own a place and put down an outside oven/baking area, that's what mean to do for ease of cleaning and longevity defo overkill. Did give you images of rustic grandeur for a few sec tho

 

[kelbygreen]

Ok well I am almost finished. I went with yellow tongue as the timber at bunnings isnt worth buying so that was the right size to give me 2 shelfs and about 40mm left over. I got some 6mm tile underlay as its thicker then the fibro so should be better. I will put the tiles I have under the burners and see how they go before I glue and silicone them in.

I put temporary wheels on it so I can move it around, As I said in another thread I am going to put adjustable feet and castors on later on as my garage is way out of level.

Any way here is a picture. Ignore the state of the shed I am a messy worker and the reason for making this is to get alot of crap sorted off the floor and rearrange everything to be neat again (for a week or so )

 

[user 10246]

Nice work Kelb, coming along nicely. I used some tiles & they work pretty well under my pot with a 3 ringer.

 

[kelbygreen]

Yeah I got a 3 ring burner to go onto the HTL (keggle) which will be on the other opposite end. Just threw them up there to test the pump out. I took some measurements and will get a stand made for the 3 ring burner. I will have to put a splitter on the gas bottle and for the pump I am thinking of a plug on the inside of the top rail as the lead fits perfect to there and rig up a switch on the outside so I can turn it on and off on the fly without running to the power point or unplugging it.

Like anything when you get building it starts to grow . I would like to hard plumb the pipe in but ATM changing a few hoses isnt the end of the world they just use standard garden hose fittings. I got 2 more 3 piece ball valves on there way to get rid of them old crappy ones that are falling apart and leak air threw the seals lol.

Yeah I will try the tiles and see how they go I cant see any problems but best to be sure before its all glued in place.

 

[adryargument]

i picked up a 2m piece of iron fence from the local scrapyard, turn it on its side and drill some legs - perfect top you can 'hang' a burner under.

fencing @ $10
4 x 4" steel legs @ $20