Braumeister - Tips & Tricks

[dicko]

Matt,

My apologies mate, I just re read your post and you have a 50 litre model so I can not comment on the exact volume of water that will be required, however you may be safe in sticking with my first calculation of reducing the volume by the absorption amount over the recommended standard volume.
As long as the wort covers the elements and the wort does not overflow the malt pipe is a good start.

cheers

 

[MattSR]

No worries at all, I'm still getting used to driving this thing and I reckon this next brew should be better than the last one by a mile.

Heck, I might even have my processes down pat enough to remember to measure the O.G. Next time! Maybe I might get to nail the volumes too...


Thanks again for the pointers!

Cheers,
Matt

 

[lukec]

Hey all,
Heres a quick video of the whirlpool/chiller set up im rolling with in my 20l. This was the 1st try and seems to work well
https://youtu.be/HLjORntCHmQ

 

[BJB]

Hey all,
Heres a quick video of the whirlpool/chiller set up im rolling with in my 20l. This was the 1st try and seems to work well
https://youtu.be/HLjORntCHmQ

Looks good, now get a Hop Rocket in there as well.

 

[Dan Pratt]

What's going on with all the hop debris????

 

[lukec]

Boil over,

What's going on with all the hop debris????

 

[wobbly]

My little Sunday morning effort to make a bit of brewing equipment is achieved more easily when most of the brewing community is in church h34r: :lol:

I decided that a Duda Diesel hop spider was out of the question with cost for my BM so this is what I have done to achieve the same result.

First up I bought one of these

http://kegking.com.au/hop-spider.html

Then I went to the local boat chandlary shop and bought a half inch s/steel skin fitting.

Hop Spider 001.jpg

Hop Spider 002.jpg

Hop Spider 003.jpg



The extra hole is because I miscalculated the centre of the bracket once it was bent but it works just the same anyway.

I will use it in anger on my next brew

Hi Dicko re your above post

With your modified Keg king Hop Spider can you detail your hop schedule in particular

• Do you leave the spider in the wort through cooling and until you drain the BM
• If you remove it at the end of the boil how do you stop hop material draining out through the skin fitting hole - or don't you worry about what drains out into the wort/BM
• If you leave the spider and all the hops in the wort/BM through chilling and until you drain the BM how do you calculate/compensate for the additional IBU's post boil

Cheers

Wobbly

 

[dicko]

Hi Wobbly,

I do leave the spider in the kettle until the wort is chilled unless I "no chill" and rhen I lift the spider at flame out.

When I lift the spider I hold it on the centre spigot for a minute or so until the majority of the liquid drains into the wort and then I lift the spider and discard the hop material into the sink.
A small amount of hop material does run out of the centre spigot but I dont worry about it.

Leaving the spider in during chilling is no different to just throwing the hop pellets into the boiler so for all intents and purposes I dont change any calculations for the hops in the spider.

Hope this helps

 

[Wolfman]

Anyone have any problems with over shooting the mash temp?

 

[razz]

By how much Wolfman? I watched mine get to .5 degree above set point and then it drops back to set point.

 

[dicko]

Do you have the new model BM Wolfman?

I have the older model and never had a problem but there has been a bit of discussion on it here...https://forum.braumeisters.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=903&p=8647&hilit=Overshooting+temperatures#p8647

Apparently if you are using the smaller malt pipe it can overshoot.
One pf the posts in that link include a reply from Speidel re the small pipe.

 

[Spiesy]

Anyone have any problems with over shooting the mash temp?

Not according to the Brau temp display.

 

[Wolfman]

I have the older model. Full volume 50L. I noticed it with the last batch. I did have 12.7kg of malt in the pipe. Was the second time I have used the jacket as well. Was mashing at 68 and it was at 70. Checked with a thermometer and at the top it was 65.

This batch is not attenuating very well. Started at 1.070 and dropped quickly to 1.030.

 

[Crusty]

I have the older interface & using the standard malt pipe or the shorter pipe for my 20lt batches it has never given me any overshoot, not once. I'm quite impressed with its accuracy.

 

[Black n Tan]

I have never noticed a temperature over-shoot on my 1st generation 50L BM even with the short malt-pipe.

 

[Wolfman]

I wonder if having the jacket on pushes the temp up? I've only noticed it since having the jacket.

 

[Black n Tan]

I use a jacket also, so don't think that is the reason. Could one of the pumps be blocked?

 

[Batz]

I have an older 50lt, I always use the jacket and have never had a problem.

Batz

 

[Crusty]

Like the boys above, I always use the jacket & no overshoot.

 

[crhall41]

Hi I added a can of amber LME late boil to my last big brew but realized I could not take a valid pre-boil gravity reading which is requested in Beersmith for determining mash efficiency. I did add the LME as an ingredient but I am unclear if Beersmith takes into account the fact that I had not yet added the LME. This made me think about adding the LME during the mash rather than at the end of the boil. Has anyone tried this with their BM or can you think of a reason why this would not be a good idea?

Thx, Chris