Bottle Conditioning Temp

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Matplat

Well-Known Member
Joined
15/1/15
Messages
1,233
Reaction score
451
Hi all,

Well for the first time i have searched for an answer and not found it!

There is alot of info about fermenting temp, but i cant find anything about conditioning temp. Perhaps thats because it isnt as important??

The coopers diy guide says anything above 18degC is ok, and perhaps it is for their kits, but what about the rest?

I've just put down my first brew, so im abit anxious about having to condition at the ambient of 25-30 out here in Dalby.

Whaddyafink?

Cheers, Matt
 
Its not as important as ferment temp, that is true. Fermenting gives you the flavour, esters etc, and therefore it is locked in, but conditioning temp is simply for the remaining yeast to consume the bottling sugars. Zero to minimal flavours imparted at this stage. My guess is Coopers say 18, simply so it will carb up in an acceptable amount of time.
That said, dont let it get too hot. Conditioning is going to take longer at lower temps, and faster at higher temps. Best to find a spot where a stable temp, close to ferment temp can be found.
 
I'm not claiming this as gospel, but I've had a couple of beers develop an acetaldehyde flavour after bottling. This wasn't in the beer to start with, and really if it were it should disappear in bottle conditioning. The only thing I could put it down to was the 30+ degrees during bottle conditioning.

So maybe aim for something around 20-25 if you can? Under the house in foam boxes?
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but I go for warmish to carb up and then cellar temp to condition.

Easy for me to say as I'm in Scotland and easy to cellar beers! Lol

Time is important and you get to know by feel( if using PET) when your beers are ready.

I had a stout though that was left for a while after bottling and kind if want through a secondary secondary fermentation and went really fizzy. Kind of fucked it up and went nasty so beware of your styles and how long you leave them. Not sure if this is more important than temp.
 
I wonder if there is an issue with temperatures after bottling. How much beer etc is carted around this country in extreme temperatures, not only bottles but cans. Do breweries store there bottles/cans in cool rooms until delivered, I don't think they do. I just bottle, crate and store in a room until needed.
Cheers
 
Yeah i dont have an under the house option, evaporative cooling keeps the house 5-8 deg below ambient (depending on humidity) which would be fine but im running out of room in our 3 bed house with 2 kids! My garage is usually 10deg above ambient (no insulation!) Which at the moment is what im left with :(
 
grott said:
I wonder if there is an issue with temperatures after bottling. How much beer etc is carted around this country in extreme temperatures, not only bottles but cans. Do breweries store there bottles/cans in cool rooms until delivered, I don't think they do. I just bottle, crate and store in a room until needed.
Cheers
Yeah thats the other thought in my mind, i wouldnt think twice about storing commercial beer in the garage... just hear the horror stories about homebrew going pop!
 
Matplat said:
Yeah i dont have an under the house option, evaporative cooling keeps the house 5-8 deg below ambient (depending on humidity) which would be fine but im running out of room in our 3 bed house with 2 kids! My garage is usually 10deg above ambient (no insulation!) Which at the moment is what im left with :(
I strongly recommend you keep your homebrew out of a shed in Dalby. Maybe keg?
 
Matplat said:
just hear the horror stories about homebrew going pop!
If fermentation is complete, the correct amount of sugar is used for carbonation and the bottle is capped correctly then there should be no problem.( The number of times I've seen bottles and cans sitting outside bottle shops and drive-throughs in 40 degree heat). Do the best you can with storage and keep out of direct sun is my tip.
Cheers
 
I'm starting to think some stuff in the house may need to be relegated to garage status to make way... now, how to convince SWMBO kids clothes are in the way of my beer.....
 
Matplat said:
I'm starting to think some stuff in the house may need to be relegated to garage status to make way... now, how to convince SWMBO kids clothes are in the way of my beer.....
Now some bribery is in order here plus a bit of a win win. I crate my bottles so they stack, thus less space and SWMBO uses the crates to drape the washing on when its foul outside. Just remember, don't put the id label on top of the crates, the ink will run. :) Bribery?-dinner, dress?????
 
Commercial breweries pasteurize their beer when packaging so perhaps that is why they can tolerate the harsh handling. Anyway, do you have an IKEA near by? I'm sure they would have something with a funny name that would transform your crates of brew into a hip and attractive Nordic feature for your home!
 
Any chance of scoring an old fridge, even a dead one? A dead fridge with a couple of ice bricks in it should keep it at a decent temp.
 
dblunn said:
Commercial breweries pasteurize their beer when packaging so perhaps that is why they can tolerate the harsh handling
My understanding is that "bottle condition" beers are not pasteurised as they are "alive" so to speak. Therefore I would say as examples, Coopers Pale Ale and Sparkling Ale are not pasteurised.
Cheers
 
mosto said:
Any chance of scoring an old fridge, even a dead one? A dead fridge with a couple of ice bricks in it should keep it at a decent temp.
I've actually scored a free bar fridge from one of the guys on here, picking it up on monday.... but that will be for brewing. The esky that the fermentor is in at the moment is struggling to maintain 22-24 even with 3.5l of ice!
 
This bottle storage and temperature issue has me concerned still. It could well be the nail in the coffin for my bottling days and push me into kegging.
Still can't find any definitive answers on it. Though commonsense tells me my shed which has an inside Summer temp probably peaking around 30 - 40odd degrees can't be ideal.
Is keg conditioning equal to bottle conditioning given the right amount of time?
 
Matplat said:
I've actually scored a free bar fridge from one of the guys on here, picking it up on monday.... but that will be for brewing. The esky that the fermentor is in at the moment is struggling to maintain 22-24 even with 3.5l of ice!
Yep I used to use an isulated foam box/esky , but it didn't hold temp too well (too much air to cool), so I moved to one of those soft esky bags. There is less air to warm up and when I get home from work (10 hours or so) the ice bricks are still cold and partly frozen.

Something like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/COLEMAN-SOFT-COOLER-BAG-ESKY-30-CAN-CAPACITY-/172377476844?hash=item28227f8eec:g:37cAAOSwHoFXsWB-

The one I've got even has a pull up handle and wheels to move it about with.
 
What I do, and it is what I have read, is when bottled keep it at the temperature that the beer was fermented at, all the beers I make I ferment at 19 C and keep the bottles at that temp, I generally cask my beers, with just a few bottles,but since starting to brew again I am content with the novelty of bottling.
No doubt it will wear off, or I will run out of bottles.
 
Once carbed, the cooler, the better. Same for bottles, kegs or casks (storage).
Serving temp is a different story - warm to preferred serving temp if you don't like freezing fizzy wee wee.
 
Back
Top