Biab Method. Infection

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stowaway

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Im still trying to narrow down this taste i have. Im leaning towards infection.

A few things worth mentioning about my process.

I dont sanatise anything before the boil as i assume that boiling for 60mins will sanatise everything.
I do clean the kettle tho.

I dont transfer the wort into a cube/fermetner for no chill. I seal the lid with Glade wrap and the pot's lid and let sit for 24 hours (This may be a cause). My theory here was everything inside the kettle was sanatised due to 60mins of boil, so if nothing gets in it shouldnt get infected.

I Havent yet used starters.

Has anyone been sucesful doing it this way?
 
ps - Im ruling everything out this weekend! im just gonna keep trying to i get it right.

If someone could please post me a sucesfull Pale Ale Receipe they have done with BIAB's so i can use it that would be helpful.

thanks

pss- If you do a 60min boil. Add hops in at 60mins. and then more hops in at 0min boil (flame off) and use a no chill method, the boil will still be hot for quiet a while. so wont the 0min hop addition turn to a bittering addition due to this?

psss- The Changes im making this saturday to my method:
1] Making a starter tonight (its thursday night. is that not long enough?)
2] Using PH 5.2 in the mash to even the PH level out to 5.2
3] Santising everything like a mo-fo, even if it's before the boil. Ill probably evne sanatise the kettle.
4] I wont chill in kettle, i will transfer everything from kettle to a cube for 24hour no-chill.
 
I (clearly) do not know what is causing your taste issue, but I can find a fault in your process.

If you leave your wort in the kettle with all the hot break and hop yurck overnight, I can (almost) guarantee that you will get an undesirable flavour in the resulting beer.

The idea is to get the wort away from all that trub as soon as you can. Perhaps if you syphoned the wort into your fermenter instead?

With regard to infection, etc: I clean my kettle before and after brewing. Although you are going to boil the wort in it and kill off anything that might introduce nasty flavours, it will have been doing its thing during the entire mash process, so you may still get spoilage if the wrong critters are in there at the start of the mash.
 
If you leave your wort in the kettle with all the hot break and hop yurck overnight, I can (almost) guarantee that you will get an undesirable flavour in the resulting beer.

This may be one of the reasons.
I also bought alot of the crap from the kettle into the fermetners for the first 2, it just all settled down at the bottom. for my most recent brew I was sure to leave 2 litres at the bottom and not bring much (if any) of the crap with it.
 
Hi Mate,

What recipe are you going to do next? Your previous recipes were very high in bitterness, 60 IBUs, so before ruling out anything else, i'd suggest making sure you have a nice clean simple recipe.
 
Hi Mate,

What recipe are you going to do next? Your previous recipes were very high in bitterness, 60 IBUs, so before ruling out anything else, i'd suggest making sure you have a nice clean simple recipe.


thats a plan. I plan to use someone elses sucesfull receipe with BIAB.
 
Nice one, always best to have every controlable aspect controlled IMHO before embarking on a problem solving mission.
 
I myself chill overnight in the kettle and I know a few other guys do too, without noticeable detriment, can you describe the flavour you are trying to eliminate?
 
I myself chill overnight in the kettle and I know a few other guys do too, without noticeable detriment, can you describe the flavour you are trying to eliminate?


im not very good a describing tastes. But it was digusting, real real strong smell. almost a woody taste.
 
- The Anaconda up your way has cheap-ish cubes, if you need more of them :)

- A wyeast activator pack should be just enough yeast cells for a single batch brew. If you're doing a strong beer, or lager, you'll need a real starter. A properly prepared, healthy starter is never a bad thing.

- If you're using dried yeast, pitching it directly will work, but will increase lag time. I always re-hydrate dried yeast before pitching, and have found it reduces lag time. Wort is most prone to infection before the healthy yeast has taken hold.

I would also recommend making a tried and true recipe. Something from the db that has a high rating.

Cheers
 
- The Anaconda up your way has cheap-ish cubes, if you need more of them :)

- A wyeast activator pack should be just enough yeast cells for a single batch brew. If you're doing a strong beer, or lager, you'll need a real starter. A properly prepared, healthy starter is never a bad thing.

- If you're using dried yeast, pitching it directly will work, but will increase lag time. I always re-hydrate dried yeast before pitching, and have found it reduces lag time. Wort is most prone to infection before the healthy yeast has taken hold.

I would also recommend making a tried and true recipe. Something from the db that has a high rating.

Cheers

Trevc- can u give me one of ur tried recipes please. (anything pale)
 
I would say that the two most important considerations in making a good beer are santitation and yeast. If you get an infection, your beer will not turn out well, no matter what you do. Likewise, if you don't pitch enough yeast and ferment at an appropriate temperature, there is a good chance you will get off flavours.

Make a good yeast starter (2 L for a 20L batch), clean everything really thoroughly, and you should be fine.
 
DrSmurto's Golden Ale

I've changed this one a bit for my own tastes, though. I scaled the grainbill slightly, added 200g dextrose, more aroma hops too. :)
 
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