Beer snob, new to brewing.

[manticle]

I have the probe taped to the outside of the fermenting cube with a piece of zotefoam covering it for insulation. As suggested, I measure the temp of my hydrometer samples immediately when drawing from the fermenter.

For fermentation, I usually pitch well below and allow to rise, then allow to raise further during fermentation if the style warrants it.

 

[anthonyUK]

For fermentation, I usually pitch well below and allow to rise, then allow to raise further during fermentation if the style warrants it.

Various sources suggest to pitch high on the downslope whilst cooling to ferment temp and then raise towards end of ferment but this is not possible for everyone I know.
I'm struggling through the Yeast book by White and Zahnisheff but finding it useful in parts even with my limited knowledge.

 

[Bribie G]

I believe that's what Fullers do - can't argue with that

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

One thing most people forget is the fermenting beer produces heat. About 2-3*c above ambient

 

[Handsome Jake]

Alrighty guys, it's been 15 days since I started. That seems like a fair bit to me for a coopers kit (though I could be wrong.) it's taken that long to reach a consistent gravity reading of 1016 over 48 hours, down from 1036 OG. That seems off, though, as I'm pretty sure it's meant to read a lot closer to 1008.

What do you guys think?

 

[anthonyUK]

I would say something is wrong. That would only give you 2.7% ABV. What additional fermentables did you add with the tin?
Your hydrometer could be lying to you so have you tasted it?

 

[Handsome Jake]

Added the maltodextrin "Brew Enhancer" that came with the kit. I've tasted it. It's not brilliant, but it tastes like beer.

 

[anthonyUK]

If you're not likely to drink it chuck it and put it down to experience.
In the future, if you are making a one can kit with 'enhancer' always brew it short e.g. 19-20l instead of 23l to make up for the loss of body from using a simple sugar.
Try a 'toucan' (two-can) so maybe two cans of Coopers APA which works well and would result in something resembling an IPA.

As a self-confessed beer snob, once you have the brewing basics straight you should be looking at using malt extract only kits, extract with grain/hop additions and BIAB or 3 vessel all grain and concentrate on getting the basics right such as sanitation, ingredients, yeast health and temperature control where small gains in all of those areas (usually) results in excellent beer.

Personally I would go straight to BIAB if I was starting again as it is pretty simple, forgiving and yeilds superior results compared to kits. Some of the 'ghetto' equipment as the name implies can cost very little and be as effective as your skills allow.

 

[manticle]

Yes but the number of people who are BIABing and don't know what an ester is or what good pitching temperature should be seems to be getting a little overwhelming. While the process is super easy, understanding the fundamentals really is.........................well fundamental.

Jake - maltodextrin will leave a higher FG but don't worry about 48 hours. Consistent readings over two days is such a crappy rule of thumb to follow. Yeast can do all sorts of things, including go to sleep, only to wake up again in a bottle and blow the whole thing up.

Give it another few days. If it is finished, it will benefit from some extra time on the yeast.

 

[bum]

Yes but the number of people who are BIABing and don't know what an ester is or what good pitching temperature should be seems to be getting a little overwhelming. While the process is super easy, understanding the fundamentals really is.........................well fundamental.

A-*******-men.

 

[BambisBrewingBeer]

Haha, I don't have anything to contribute to this conversation other than: I think it's funny you called yourself Handsome Jake. That's pretty awesome, man.

 

[pk.sax]

For future reference, search for the 'fast ferment test'. Do this from now on. Good explanation on this topic on braukaiser.com