"aussie" Beer

[manticle]

Well said Nick

I've long been an opponent of the orange cloudy 120 IBU substance that passes for beer. To a great extent home brewing has been hijacked by the American/German/Belgian axis where more dunkel and more trappist and more Cascade is better. Fortunately UK Bitters and milds have provided a bit of a check to this process, especially the TTL fad of late which has dragged many brewers back to the idea that 35 IBU is actually quite acceptable. However 99 percent of the World's beer is a pleasant grainy pale pilsener, nicely fragrantly hopped to around 20 IBU and just the job to slake a thirst on a hot afternoon in Greece or Manila or Bribie Island. And nothing wrong with brewing such a beer if you enjoy it, as I do and have always done.

Most German and Belgian ales aren't overhopped either Bribie. Also UK brewing is partially to blame for the excessive hopping schedules of American beers (India Pale ale particularly).

 

[Tony]

Surprised Tony has not chimed in, but his aussie ale is good, basic, but good. Ale malt, wheat malt, POR & US05. It's on the recipe DB.

Thanks mate.

Yeah i think the hallmark feature of making an AUSSIE beer it to keep it simple!

It can have flavour, aroma, all that but should be simple.

cheers

 

[Pete2501]

Most German and Belgian ales aren't overhopped either Bribie. Also UK brewing is partially to blame for the excessive hopping schedules of American beers (India Pale ale particularly).

English IPA's aren't what they used to be though. They seem to be all mid strength beers.

 

[jyo]

Trying my first "Aussie" fake lager tomorrow.

4.5kg BB galaxy ale malt
500gms boiled rice in mash

25 gms POR for 60min
25 gms POR at flameout (chill over 3 hours or overnight)
US05

I'm keeping this simple as.

I have never used POR and I WILL refrain from dry hopping, as much as know that I want to.
Cheers to Bribie for advice :icon_cheers:

 

[waggastew]

Just thought I would add to the debate about how Aussie beers stack up against the rest of the world.

About 10 years ago I was sent to the New York with 2 other Aussies to set up an office of our company. Initially we were very excited about the relatively cheap Euro lagers and American boutiques. After about 4 months however we grew weary and began to get sentimental about what we grew up on. The solution was a 30can slab of VB imported from a mob in WA for Oz day celebrations. Something like AUD $8 a can (about the same as buying a beer in a pub in the US) but worth every penny. Was nice to drink something genuinely bitter, even if it was mass produced etc. Euro/US stuff gets very sweet and bland very quickly!

Now we are all back in OZ and drinking Euro/US stuff on a Saturday night so go figure???? Maybe its the forbidden fruit/what you can't get??????

 

[manticle]

English IPA's aren't what they used to be though. They seem to be all mid strength beers.

Yes but the point is that it's Bribie's fault.

Completely.

 

[rendo]

I cant help it...I have to confess:

VB on tap = fantastic beer!!! (shoot me down....dont care)
VB in a bottle = well...if its hot and I want a beer..ok
VB in a can = I'd rather have water or nothing

its a love/hate thing.

You guys are freaking me out. I know VB is considered beer and XXXX. But.. why? :lol:

 

[pbrosnan]

Well said Nick

I've long been an opponent of the orange cloudy 120 IBU substance that passes for beer. To a great extent home brewing has been hijacked by the American/German/Belgian axis where more dunkel and more trappist and more Cascade is better. Fortunately UK Bitters and milds have provided a bit of a check to this process, especially the TTL fad of late which has dragged many brewers back to the idea that 35 IBU is actually quite acceptable. However 99 percent of the World's beer is a pleasant grainy pale pilsener, nicely fragrantly hopped to around 20 IBU and just the job to slake a thirst on a hot afternoon in Greece or Manila or Bribie Island. And nothing wrong with brewing such a beer if you enjoy it, as I do and have always done.

Yes, well probably a bit of confirmation bias creeping in there. The current dominance of US and Belgium styles is the boon of our beer drinking generation. Simply put, these two countries have rewritten (or perhaps revived) the book when it comes to beer. The watery, weak, flavourless liquid that passes for the majority of UK and German/Euro beers these days may trap the young player but if you've been at it for a while then a fancy name and label do not a good beer make. Agreed that under the right conditions the aforementioned liquid will do the job but to dismiss the fruits of the current US and Belgium brewing renaissance is to miss the point. What is better, Well's Bombardier or SNPA? Why both of course.

 

[bum]

To a great extent home brewing has been hijacked by the American/German/Belgian axis where more dunkel and more trappist and more Cascade is better...However 99 percent of the World's beer is a pleasant grainy pale pilsener, nicely fragrantly hopped to around 20 IBU

Surely the reason for the first lies in the second?

 

[Pete2501]

Yes but the point is that it's Bribie's fault.

Completely.

:lol:

I cant help it...I have to confess:

VB on tap = fantastic beer!!! (shoot me down....dont care)
VB in a bottle = well...if its hot and I want a beer..ok
VB in a can = I'd rather have water or nothing

its a love/hate thing.

I feel yah. I'll drink VB from the tap quit happily at the bowls club.

 

[goomboogo]

The solution was a 30can slab of VB imported from a mob in WA for Oz day celebrations. Something like AUD $8 a can (about the same as buying a beer in a pub in the US) but worth every penny. Was nice to drink something genuinely bitter, even if it was mass produced etc. Euro/US stuff gets very sweet and bland very quickly!

I'm surprised you would find VB genuinely bitter. Even taking into account the light body and considerable adjunct quantity, a beer in the range of 18-20 ibu isn't all that bitter. I wonder if the particular fermentation characteristic of this beer gives some people the perception of bitterness.

 

[Batz]

Trying my first "Aussie" fake lager tomorrow.

4.5kg BB galaxy ale malt
500gms boiled rice in mash

25 gms POR for 60min
25 gms POR at flameout (chill over 3 hours or overnight)
US05

I'm keeping this simple as.

I have never used POR and I WILL refrain from dry hopping, as much as know that I want to.
Cheers to Bribie for advice :icon_cheers:

You possiably have already brew this jyo, but if you want a close to Aussie lager drop the flame out addition, POR with not suit this.

Batz

 

[Bribie G]

TB once said that the yeast strains used at CUB tend to give a metallic 'twang' , which I can relate to. Also I'm not sure what the IBU of VB is, they obviously squirt a bit more isohop in than Carlton Draught or Fosters on the way to the packing line.

 

[Bribie G]

You possiably have already brew this jyo, but if you want a close to Aussie lager drop the flame out addition, POR with not suit this.

Batz

+1. However a related hop which, according to some (FourStar etc) is a good late hopper is Superpride. Higher AA so go careful, say 20g 90 mins and 15g flameout.

 

[Siborg]

I cant help it...I have to confess:

VB on tap = fantastic beer!!! (shoot me down....dont care)
VB in a bottle = well...if its hot and I want a beer..ok
VB in a can = I'd rather have water or nothing

its a love/hate thing.

VB for free = I'll drink it
VB if its hot and there's nothing else near by - I'll drink it
VB for $5 a drink... I'll pay the extra $3-4 and get something better.

 

[Siborg]

Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.75 kg BB Galaxy Pale Malt (1.5 SRM) Grain 72.82 %
1.00 kg BB Ale Malt (3.0 SRM) Grain 19.42 %
0.20 kg BB Wheat Malt (1.0 SRM) Grain 3.88 %
25.00 gm Pride of Ringwood [9.00 %] (60 min) Hops 23.3 IBU
1.22 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
0.20 kg Cane (Beet) Sugar (0.0 SRM) Sugar 3.88 %
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.054 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.013 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.005 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.34 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 0.65 %
Bitterness: 23.3 IBU Calories: 90 cal/l
Est Color: 3.3 SRM : Color

Some interesting recipes here. Would be great to try some.

Batz, do you have a partial version of the above recipe?

 

[Batz]

Some interesting recipes here. Would be great to try some.

Batz, do you have a partial version of the above recipe?

I don't but it wouldn't be hard to knock one up.

I'll use the same recipe next time but copy Tidalpetes lead and brew it as a lager using Wyeast Danish.

Batz

 

[jyo]

You possiably have already brew this jyo, but if you want a close to Aussie lager drop the flame out addition, POR with not suit this.

Batz

Mashing right now mate.
What do you think, Saaz? This is what Bribie suggested, but funds would not allow an extra bag of hops.
I have POR, Styrian, Centennial, Cascade, Simcoe, Amarillo and some home grown Chinook in the freezer....probably way off with all of these though.

 

[stevem01]

I'm a bit confused from this discussion, assuming starting with 3.5-4Kg of base malt, some are adding 500g rice (presumably to thin the beer out?) some are adding Wheat (presumably to add body?)

Which one is it? are these opposing objectives or maybe a bit of both?
or just stick to the base malt for a middle ground?

 

[jyo]

I'm a bit confused from this discussion, assuming starting with 3.5-4Kg of base malt, some are adding 500g rice (presumably to thin the beer out?) some are adding Wheat (presumably to add body?)

Which one is it? are these opposing objectives or maybe a bit of both?
or just stick to the base malt for a middle ground?

1st time I've tried rice , Steve. From what I've read, rice will give you a dry beer, whilst maintaining smoothness.
Someone with experience may chime in and give extra info.
Cheers, John.
Just took a peek at the temp in the esky, and it smells nice. :icon_cheers: