Ale At Low Temperature

[growold]

Word is that ale brewed at the top of a yeast's recommended temperature range will develop estery flavours.



But what can I expect from a long fermentation at the bottom of the range?



Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale (13-24 C)

I have transferred it to the secondary fermentation container after an 80 percent drop to my expected FG.

It has held a consistent 14 degrees C throughout the primary and to now, nearing the end of the secondary.



The Larger I brewed at these temperatures the other week using S-23, as expected has turned out good.

I chose the Wyeast 1728 because my insulated fermentation box is holding a temperature within the Wyeast's tolerances.

 

[samhighley]

As you hypothesise, i'd expect it to be pretty clean.

Scotland is generally pretty cold, so I gather this yeast performs pretty well at the lower end of the temperature scale.

 

[Fatgodzilla]

As you hypothesise, i'd expect it to be pretty clean.

Scotland is generally pretty cold, so I gather this yeast performs pretty well at the lower end of the temperature scale.

+1

You'll love the brew that much you'll put on a kilt and perform a fling ! Normally if the yeasts get too cold, the yeast merely goes to sleep.

 

[Stuster]

You should get a nice clean beer. This yeast is such a strong fermenter, even down to 11C ambient. I used this in the depths of winter and while the 1007 German ale near it went to sleep, a reasonable slurry of this yeast was down to FG in three days! Definitely re-use the slurry if you've still got some.

One point, it's really better to hold of transferring to secondary (if you have to) until fermentation is finished.

 

[altone]

Interesting you are using a Scottish ale yeast.
Since I converted all the neighbours old fridges into my lager setup, which runs at around 12deg
I've always brewed my scottish ales in the same setup.

After fermentation is complete, I even store them at zero deg for a week too before gradually
raising them back to ambient.

I find them to be crisp and clean with none of those estery flavours that don't belong in
my scottish ales.

 

[buttersd70]

One point, it's really better to hold of transferring to secondary (if you have to) until fermentation is finished.

I would have to disagree with this. The whole point of secondary fermentation is to finish fermentation in the secondary vessel. Hence the term secondary fermentation.

 

[3G]

I would have to disagree with this. The whole point of secondary fermentation is to finish fermentation in the secondary vessel. Hence the term secondary fermentation.

Yes, it is definatly beneficial to have some fermentation left, it will help produce co2 and keep the wort safe from spoilage.

 

[Duff]

I would have to disagree with this. The whole point of secondary fermentation is to finish fermentation in the secondary vessel. Hence the term secondary fermentation.

If we're going to get pedantic, I'd say Stuster merely just missed the word 'primary'.

BTW, the Scottish is a great yeast.

 

[growold]

Definitely re-use the slurry if you've still got some.

Have done so, on an "Imperial" Porter, after that I will do a Russian Imperial Stout.
Though for the third beer i will take a spoonfull make a yeast starter to give the fermenter a good clean and sanitise.
If that goes well an Imperial IPA will follow.
(I think I like this yeast)

...store them at zero deg for a week too before gradually raising them back to ambient.

...and does it start up again or do you pitch in a fresh generation?

 

[Duff]

If that goes well an Imperial IPA will follow.

I thought later about one of my enjoyable AIPA's was fermented with this yeast.

05-25 Imperial IPA

A ProMash Recipe Report

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (L): 20.00
Total Grain (kg): 5.92
Anticipated OG: 1.069 Plato: 16.84
Anticipated SRM: 8.3
Anticipated IBU: 60.6
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75 %
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
79.3 4.70 kg. JWM Export Pilsner Australia 1.037 2
13.6 0.80 kg. JWM Wheat Malt Australia 1.040 2
3.3 0.20 kg. TF Crystal UK 1.034 74
2.3 0.13 kg. Melanoidin Malt 1.033 35
1.5 0.09 kg. JWM Dark Munich Australia 1.039 13

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
10.00 g. Hallertau Northern Brewer Pellet 10.50 13.0 60 min.
5.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.90 5.5 60 min.
5.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.00 3.7 60 min.
5.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.90 5.2 50 min.
5.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.00 3.5 50 min.
5.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.90 4.8 40 min.
5.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.00 3.2 40 min.
5.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.90 4.2 30 min.
5.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.00 2.8 30 min.
5.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.90 3.3 20 min.
5.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.00 2.2 20 min.
5.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.90 2.0 10 min.
5.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.00 1.3 10 min.
5.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.90 1.1 5 min.
5.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.00 0.7 5 min.
5.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.90 0.9 4 min.
5.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.00 0.6 4 min.
5.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.90 0.7 3 min.
5.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.00 0.5 3 min.
5.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.90 0.5 2 min.
5.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.00 0.3 2 min.
5.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.90 0.2 1 min.
5.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.00 0.2 1 min.
10.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.90 0.0 0 min.
10.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.00 0.0 0 min.


Yeast
-----

WYeast 1728

 

[Stuster]

after that I will do a Russian Imperial Stout.
Though for the third beer i will take a spoonfull make a yeast starter to give the fermenter a good clean and sanitise.

I'd suggest it's better to use the slurry for that one. You'll need all the yeast you can get for a big beer like a RIS.