Adding additional hoppy goodness (no chill)

[Colo]

Howdy all,

I've been brewing an American Pale Ale for a while now (up to about version 15). It incorporates two of my favourite hops Galaxy and Mosaic. My pallet has somewhat changed over the past year and it now desires additional hop flavour in my beers which unfortunately my current hop schedules are falling short of.

Because I no chill and both of these hops have a decent AA my hop schedule looks like this.

60 min boil
40 min 8g Magnum
10 min 45g Galaxy (in the cube)
10 min 45g Mosaic (in the cube)

DH 15g Galaxy
DH 15g Mosaic

This gave me roughly 37 IBU's, but not enough hop flavour to make me a happy brewer. So I was thinking while transferring wort from the cube into my fermentor that maybe I should do a hop steep to add additional hop flavour.

I haven't had to do this before so I'm looking for advice from others who do this often and how to get the best results. The process I was going to follow-

-Boil 1Lt of water and remove from heat before adding hops
-Add 50g Mosaic and 50g Galaxy and stir for 5 mins
-Pour the whole lot into the fermentor for additional hoppy goodness?

This may take me up to about 44 IBU's which should still be acceptable.

Cheers

 

[barls]

id look at water treatment first. it made a huge difference in my hoppy beers

 

[BKBrews]

why don't you just ditch the 40min addition and add more into the cube? I've never no-chilled before, but often do only whirlpool additions. I don't know what batch size you make, but 30g dry hop also seems very light. Assuming you do standard 23L batches, that's only 1.3g/L. Try 3g/L as a start and see if that gets you where you want, then up it to 5g/L if you're still not satisfied.

 

[Bribie G]

Nowadays I cube hop most of my brews as you do and just use a bittering addition in the kettle. However what I do notice is that the late hops are far more pronounced since I started doing an oxygen free transfer into a keg that's been completely flushed with CO2.

 

[Colo]

I do treat my water, I bring the PH down to around 5.4 (so hard to get this exact) and add about 6g of Gypsum.

So I was always of the impression that dry hopping is for aroma (on the nose) rather than actually adding additional flavour to the beer?

 

[BKBrews]

I do treat my water, I bring the PH down to around 5.4 (so hard to get this exact) and add about 6g of Gypsum.

So I was always of the impression that dry hopping is for aroma (on the nose) rather than actually adding additional flavour to the beer?

The best way that this was explained to me, is this:

pour yourself two glasses of water and add a couple of hop pellets to one of them. let it sit for a few minutes and then taste both. The one with pellets will have a) a certain amount of flavor and b) bitterness. Also, if you read a few studies, a lot of our sense of taste comes from smell - so it works both ways.

 

[Lionman]

I do treat my water, I bring the PH down to around 5.4 (so hard to get this exact) and add about 6g of Gypsum.

So I was always of the impression that dry hopping is for aroma (on the nose) rather than actually adding additional flavour to the beer?

Dry hopping can completely transform a beer's taste. If you want a lot of hoppiness, a big dry hop will definitely help in getting there. I find keg hopping is even better than just dry hopping in the FV too.

 

[Colo]

I still bottle, so unless I put one hop pellet per bottle...ha ha.

Ok, point taken on the dry hopping will ramp this up to may be 45g/45g Galaxy/Mosaic.

 

[malt junkie]

Known as the argon method, DSFFS is going to be reasonably fruitless. The method involves taking part of the wort and boiling for late hop additions.
So say 4-5L boil for 20min adding hops at 15, 10 and 0 (or what ever is in your recipe), cool and add to fermenter on the day you start ferment.

Big advantages, if your brewing big batches, say like Husky's 2BBL you could run a basic pale with bittering only, then as you like change out flavour and aroma additions to suit style and yeast choices for each of the ten cubes.