A Premium Lager.

[dicko]

And not to be satisfied until I get this "house beer" as I want it I have put another brew down to see how the beer performs with Nottingham yeast and a slight hop change and an addition of invert sugar.

I just luv "all grain" brewing.

Cheers

View attachment 26_Apr_2006_House_Ale.txt

 

[dicko]

Dicko, I just looked at both recipes. That evaporation rate in the kettle is massive. How big is the kettle and what r u using for a burner ? :unsure:

[post="123212"][/post]​

Hi Razz.
The kettle is 90 litres and the average pre boil size is about 66 litres.
Don't let this put you off as it just means you sparge more water. It means nothing to the final result.
I use a "nasa" burner with a HP regulator and I only have it set on a low to medium setting.
Let your software programme work it out for you! ( PROMASH )
Some brewers put a lid on the kettle to prevent the evaporation. This is up to the individual brewer. It doesn't worry me.
Let the evaporation happen.
Cheers

 

[razz]

Dicko, i'm not put off, just impressed by that amount of boil off. This sunday I think I'll turn up the reg on my nasa and go for it ! I don't mind how much boils off, I just top up to the required level from the hlt. :beerbang:

 

[dicko]

Dicko, i'm not put off, just impressed by that amount of boil off. This sunday I think I'll turn up the reg on my nasa and go for it ! I don't mind how much boils off, I just top up to the required level from the hlt. :beerbang:

[post="123215"][/post]​

Hi Razz,
If I may advise, what I did was put a kettle full of water(60 litres) in the kettle and then measured how much was boiled off in a 60 min boil ( read 30 min x 2).
Factor this figure into your Promash / Beersmith figures and then go from there.
Basically you are correct that if you boil too much you may easily top up the kettle to meet the desired Gravity and Volume but you must consider the scorching effect of your wort as it may change the flavour profile of your beer by having too much heat on the bottom of your kettle.
When I used to use a converted 50 litre keg I had a 60 min evaporation of 8 litres with a flat out 4 ring burner. It has a lot to do with the diameter of the kettle as well as the heat of the burner.
I am sure other brewers will offer all of there evaporation results, but what it matters is - "what you get from your system"
Brewing has many variables,
Cheers

 

[dicko]

So here we are 4 weeks later.
Whats the results,I'm curious?

[post="123194"][/post]​

Hi Bl,
I guess I must have known that someone will ask how this brew is going as I put 1 bottle in the fridge this morning to try tonite.
Well, after two weeks just enough carbonation to be drinkable.
I would say the beer has a bit of a hops / yeast aroma on initial tasting. - probably that this beer is very young.
It is a tad sweet if you are comparing it to lagers that have been hopped to the same level and it has a definate chill haze.
This beer needs to mature in the bottle and then be re assessed.
I would suggest that if the whole brew was bottled then it needs a reasonable maturing time.
The recipe and details are as follows

[post="123205"][/post]​

I do need to add that this brew was also done with the "no Chill" method.
Is this why it has a chill haze???????
Cheers

 

[Weizguy]

I do need to add that this brew was also done with the "no Chill" method.
Is this why it has a chill haze???????
Cheers

[post="123229"][/post]​

Good question dicko,

I just asked the same thing in the no-chiller thread, if U wanna follow up there.

Seth

 

[dicko]

I do need to add that this brew was also done with the "no Chill" method.
Is this why it has a chill haze???????
Cheers

[post="123229"][/post]​

Good question dicko,

I just asked the same thing in the no-chiller thread, if U wanna follow up there.

Seth

[post="123276"][/post]​

Hi Wg,
I dont know wether to post on this topic or the other one.
I'll stick it here as the other thread is "huge".
A micro brewer in Adelaide told me that Marris Otter produces a cloudy beer generally, so we need some info from someone who has used say, JW malt,
with the "no chill" method before any conclusions are sought.
Cheers

 

[Trent]

Gday Dicko and Weizguy
I pretty much use Maris Otter in all my beers, and (knock on wood) I rarely get chill haze in mine. Gough was mentioning the same problem to me, but I havent found it to be much of an issue, but I havent checked my paler beers I dont think since I started using a counterflow chiller, so maybe it has something to do with the cold break being in the primary? Actually, no, cause you siphon off the cold break before pitching, right? I will try one of my more recent pales tonight and see if it has chill haze.
All the best
Trent

 

[Gough]

Unless I use PVPP I tend to get some chill haze in Maris Otter based beers when they are chilled below about 8 degrees. Above that temp it disappears completely. That said, I've never 'lagered' a Maris Otter beer for any length of time that I can remember. I don't really have the same problem with other malts including Weyermann Munich etc...

Shawn.

 

[dicko]

Gday Dicko and Weizguy
I pretty much use Maris Otter in all my beers, and (knock on wood) I rarely get chill haze in mine. Gough was mentioning the same problem to me, but I havent found it to be much of an issue, but I havent checked my paler beers I dont think since I started using a counterflow chiller, so maybe it has something to do with the cold break being in the primary? Actually, no, cause you siphon off the cold break before pitching, right? I will try one of my more recent pales tonight and see if it has chill haze.
All the best
Trent

[post="123308"][/post]​

Hi Trent,
In my case if I had syphoned the beer off the break I would have lost a lot of wort.
I just tipped it in to the fermenter and pitched the yeast.
I figured that this would be no different to me using my CFWC as the cold break still ends up in the beer.
Tony, on another post topic said that he strains his wort through a filter type bag which sounds like a good idea, but no real gain if the MO is what is causing the haze.

Hi Gough,
I'll warm a glass of the beer tomorrow if I get time and see what it looks like.
Apart from the chill haze I would say that it's not a bad beer for a "hybrid".
The guy with the micro uses MO in one of his beers and he tells me it is allways a little cloudy.
I wonder if the MO would benefit from a protien rest?
Cheers

 

[Gough]

Hi Gough,
I'll warm a glass of the beer tomorrow if I get time and see what it looks like.
Apart from the chill haze I would say that it's not a bad beer for a "hybrid".
The guy with the micro uses MO in one of his beers and he tells me it is allways a little cloudy.
I wonder if the MO would benefit from a protien rest?
Cheers

[post="123325"][/post]​

Funny you should mention that Dicko...

After reading this month's BYO I'm definitely going to give a 45-50 degree/20 minuteish rest a go before stepping to sacc temp in future MO mashes. There is an article citing two US micro's brewers, including the brewer from Stone's, and they use an acid or a protein rest regardless of the malt used to aid clarity. I'd been thinking about it for a while given I use MO a lot, and the articles basically pushed me over the edge I guess... I'll report my results

FWIW I love the MO malt and the chill haze is just a bit of an annoyance. The PVPP (thanks for the suggestion Mark) does work, but I'd rather 'brew my way out' of the problem than rely on additives if you know what I mean

Shawn.

 

[dicko]

Well Gough,
I think I will give it a go myself next brew, so we could compare notes.
I'll give it a twenty minute rest at 50 deg and see how it goes.
I'll let you know but i wont be brewing for about 12 days or so at this stage.
Cheers

 

[Gough]

Sounds like a plan

Shawn.

 

[Tony]

I have used 50 KG's of MO so far and all have had a small amount of chill haze except one that got a 30 min rest at 50 deg and then a decoction up to 67.

It was as clear as a bell @ 2 deg c.

will be doing this in future when brewing a pale beer with it.

I dont drink my ales real cold mostly so it doesnt wory me.

cheers

 

[Gough]

Sounds like we are on the right track with it then Dicko.

I don't have a major stress with it - like you say Tony I tend to try and drink my Pommy Ales a bit warmer than most, but it is frustrating nonetheless to pull a bottle from the fridge and have it hazy.

Shawn.

 

[dicko]

I have used 50 KG's of MO so far and all have had a small amount of chill haze except one that got a 30 min rest at 50 deg and then a decoction up to 67.

It was as clear as a bell @ 2 deg c.

will be doing this in future when brewing a pale beer with it.

I dont drink my ales real cold mostly so it doesnt wory me.

cheers

[post="123356"][/post]​

Thanks for that info Tony, I have only ever used MO in dark beers before this.
As I said originally I am trying to get a good beer that will be my "house beer" so I would like to serve it fairly chilled.
It looses a bit of the "wow" factor if it is a bit cloudy when you serve it.
Yes Gough it will definately get a protien rest in the next one.
Cheers

 

[Pumpy]

Filter it Dicko

The way to go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pumpy

 

[Ross]

I use MO in nearly all my brews & this haze issue has been well discussed before. The Bairds MO is very variable (if you buy from a good sack go back & buy the rest). The malt varies from clear to mud. Several Brisbane brewers have had exactly the same results from the same sacks. I tried twice using a protien rest on the worst sacks of MO & it didn't clear it, it might work on MO with less of a problem, but I gave it away. As Gough says Polyclar clears it 100% & is far less hassle than doing a protien rest.

cheers Ross

 

[Ross]

Filter it Dicko

[post="123386"][/post]​

Pumpy, your filter won't remove chill haze

cheers Ross

 

[Darren]

Hey guys,
I reckon the haze is caused by too high initial strike temp. You will get better results if you aim for 63-64 then raise to 68-70 within 10 or so minutes.

cheers

Darren