A Guide To All-grain Brewing In A Bag

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I can't remember what's in the original guide, but this is the one I'm talking about. Not trying to criticise anyone here, this is just my opinion :) People could be using them without a noticeable problem, but I didn't like the look of them in Bunnings.


yeah I agree with you on that one... that is not the one Im talking about. The one we use and also PP. Has a still end and silcone bottom.
 
It does beg the question though. What's the max. weight of grain you could BIAB in let's say a 40 litre urn for the sake of discussion. There's got to be a point when exctraction efficiency is going to be shocking, and a waste of extra grain for very little extra OG yeild.

From memory, the biggest amount of grain I have used in my 40 litre urn was a tad over 7kg, and I had to add the grain and then top up with water after it had been given a good stir for 10 minutes so it went right up to the top of the urn. If you wanted to go bigger, you probably could using a thicker mash ratio, but then you would need to do something of a hybrid sparge in order to not mess up your efficiency too much.

I have thought about this in the past but not actually done so, but it might be not too hard to use your bag with 10kg of grain, and an esky to mash in instead of the urn. Mash for the appropriate time at the right temperature (and amount of water for a thick mash), then hoist the bag, dump the first runnings into another container like a sanitised 25l bucket, and then sparge the grain in the esky with water that you had heated up in the urn. This should be able to avoid any issues with a stuck sparge, and will allow you to make a decent amount of a big beer. Sure you will not have the simplicity of doing it all in one vessel, but it also keeps much of the benefits of BIAB, such as no stuck sparges and easy cleanup.

Crundle
 
What ever way you want to word it.. in a 40 litre with 10 kilo of grain is what WE would call a double batch.

Hands up how many people are doing double batches in a 40litre urn?




Where's the tumbleweed icon?

Your posts are confusing, to say the least.
 
Hands up how many people are doing double batches in a 40litre urn?




Where's the tumbleweed icon?

Your posts are confusing, to say the least.


Ok Smartie pants how much water are you going to be putting in your 40 litre urn with 10 kilos of grain? Who the f(ck would do that?

I brew and not just talk about it. Really who needs to be told what kind of $20.00 pot to buy... (and you have be told twice) you leave me alone and I keep away from you.
 
Ok Smartie pants how much water are you going to be putting in your 40 litre urn with 10 kilos of grain? Who the f(ck would do that?

I brew and not just talk about it. Really who needs to be told what kind of $20.00 pot to buy... (and you have be told twice) you leave me alone and I keep away from you.

Please show some contraint and try to stay on topic. This is a great thread with some seriously good information, and there is no place here for personal attacks.
 
Anyway, back on topic...

Im just inspecting the exposed element at the bottom of my urn... Im thinking of getting a stainless steel colander from the supermarket like this one to pop over the top.

ssricecollanderwithssh.jpg


Is this the right way to go?
 
Anyway, back on topic...

Im just inspecting the exposed element at the bottom of my urn... Im thinking of getting a stainless steel colander from the supermarket like this one to pop over the top.

ssricecollanderwithssh.jpg


Is this the right way to go?

I actually didnt go off topic I was just told that I did go off topic anyhow....


I think that would work, pretty sure that is what Pollux puts over his element.
 
About a month ago, I posted [post="486529"]here[/post] asking whether it was worthwhile in attempting a BIAB in a 19L pot, wanting to try a Roger's Amber Ale clone. I finally got organised & have just got the fermentor sealed up. Being a first attempt at an AG beer, I don't have all the numbers & I don't know if it will be anything close to a Roger's but I can't wait to find out how it tastes.

Ok, the numbers I do have;

Recipe :

2100g Pale Malt
60g Bairds Dark Crystal
50g Bairds Medium Crystal
30g Bairds Pale Chocolate

22g East Kent Goldings [4.8%] (60 min)
24g Cascade [6.3] (1 min)

25ml Proculture Pro-10 Sierra Nevada yeast
0.25 Whirlfloc Tablet
0.25tsp Yeast Nutrient

Strike Water : 15L (68C)

Mash : 90 min (68C)
Boil : 80 min


Pre-Boil Gravity : 1.043 (volume unknown)
Post Boil Gravity : 1.052 (volume into fermentor 8.5L)

OG : 1.042 (after dilution to 10.5L)

Fermenting at 20C

I'd like to thank PistolPatch, Crundle & Thirsty Boy for providing a start point for getting into AG.

Cheers,

Ben
 
About a month ago, I posted [post="486529"]here[/post] asking whether it was worthwhile in attempting a BIAB in a 19L pot, wanting to try a Roger's Amber Ale clone. I finally got organised & have just got the fermentor sealed up. Being a first attempt at an AG beer, I don't have all the numbers & I don't know if it will be anything close to a Roger's but I can't wait to find out how it tastes.

Ok, the numbers I do have;

Recipe :

2100g Pale Malt
60g Bairds Dark Crystal
50g Bairds Medium Crystal
30g Bairds Pale Chocolate

22g East Kent Goldings [4.8%] (60 min)
24g Cascade [6.3] (1 min)

25ml Proculture Pro-10 Sierra Nevada yeast
0.25 Whirlfloc Tablet
0.25tsp Yeast Nutrient

Strike Water : 15L (68C)

Mash : 90 min (68C)
Boil : 80 min


Pre-Boil Gravity : 1.043 (volume unknown)
Post Boil Gravity : 1.052 (volume into fermentor 8.5L)

OG : 1.042 (after dilution to 10.5L)

Fermenting at 20C

I'd like to thank PistolPatch, Crundle & Thirsty Boy for providing a start point for getting into AG.

Cheers,

Ben
Great , so no real drama's then! It just gets easier from now on. :icon_cheers:
GB
 
Great , so no real drama's then! It just gets easier from now on. :icon_cheers:
GB

Well done Ben,

Now you have your maiden out of the way - as GB said, it just gets easier and more fun.

Small batches are a great way to get a bunch of brews under your belt and do a lot of learning - and after a while you will be so comfortable with your process that ways to tweak it will start occurring to you. Have a crack at them and I reckon you will be able to push your batch size up eventually. Maybe not to "full" size, but more than 10.5L for sure.

Welcome to the bag brigade

TB
 
Yeah no problems, except for only being able to brew 10L at a time. :icon_cheers: Will probably have a bottle or three to spare though.
 
I've seen these and they are just mild steel with a thin coat of paint. In my opinion they're not likely to be food grade, and quite likely to flake into your beer if it gets a bit of rough treatment. I couldn't find something in stainless and with the right length so I just stuck with the standard 60cm white plastic spoon. It works fine.
paint_stirrer.jpg

edit (fresh from the mash, should have given it a wash and scrub up first :p )
 
Katie_114.JPG

and this was the one I was talking about, the red is silcone Im thinking.....
 
Posting gear and ideas are we :eek:

hehe

My BIAB secret weapon:
Secret_Weapon.jpg
It has a short instruction manual. I'll show you it in action if you want :p


Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
First I was planning on sewing my bag. But then I didn't before I tried the BIAB method :)

Since that first try of the BIAB method, I found that it was not really necessary to cut and sew the bag. A square amount of voile uncut has all the strength of the original weave in tact and cleans and hangs nicely as is.

I also found that a standard Goo Tin Shipping Box donated by the LHBS to bring home bags of cracked grain is perfect mould and I already am a tiny bit bent on "reusing and recycling" recently so I kept on using the box. You simply stick your hand in the centre of the square of voile material and then you just push your hand into the box lining the mould. You open your various grain bags and simply pour them in. All the dust, flours, and grains are self contained in the box and this makes for quick and easy clean up as a benefit. Take your twine and snip off a small piece and gather the edges of voile hanging over the box and tie off the bag like a large dumpling bag. The dry grain holds the box shape rather nicely once you remove it from the box and makes for an easy time settling it slowly down into the brew pot once you've hit your desired mash temperature.


(1)
Cardboard box mould to place the voile in and pour the grain bags into. Tied off voile bag like a large dumpling bag.
Secret_Weapon_Box.jpg




(2)
Then I just use a length of twine uncut from the roll of twine to wrap around the top neck of the bag three times without tying and then a single wrap on the vent top and done. Bag suspended. The majority of the weight of the bag is taken up due to buoyancy once in the water. As you feel like it, you just take your fore finger and finger and pinch daintily the neck of the bag where it is tied and dunk your "jolly big tea bag" up and down with no effort at all and no splashing, or overflows. The bag is suspended above the bottom of the pot and is in no danger of burning against the bottom. The loose ends of the voile material simply wrap around the twine in a few turns and are out of flames way. Because its not tied on, just a second to reverse turn the voile and unwrap three turns around the bag and its free to lift out and begin the boil.
Secret_Weapon_In_Action.jpg
Secret Weapon #2 tin foil around the stove surface under the burner. Makes cleaning up a breeze.


I was also going to kit out the pot with ball valves. Found this to be unnecessary as well. A proper racking cane will easily transfer the liquid into the No-Chill Cube. Hose down to the bottom of the cube and a lovely transfer with little aeration. I was going to get more fancy with the racking cane, but when you clean it and sanitize it and rinse it its already full of water and already primed and ready to go. Three to five seconds into a bucket or spare jar or spare ALDI 2L juice container and the water is clear and the wort is flowing. Pinch the hose and in two seconds you have it lifted out of the bucket and into the No-Chill Cube.

I must be a strong buggar because I lift the bag out with no strain or issues.

Until I get my new 100 litre pot, in the kitchen the large 2-ring NG burner raises temperature 1C almost every 70 seconds. Efficiency would be better and times to raise temperature lower if I went with an all Aluminium pot instead of a Stainless Steel one. I'll also have a look at both electric and NG jet burners for getting the 100 litre pot up to the boil as single batch is the limit of the simple setup above.

For people just getting into BIAB, the guide could be used to show a range of kit outfittings from the simple to the complex. I was planning very complex and I am surprised at how simple I've left it.


Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
Sorry for the late addition to some things covered in earlier pages but i have been way busy and haven't brewed in a month or longer due to circumstanced out of my control.
RE the 10K grain in 40L urn.... yes i suppose it's possible, but lets face it, good brewers want quality not quantity (or maybe quantity of good quality) and hitting targets is going to be harder when balancing boil overs with targets really a larger vessel would be better.
RE the Bunnings paint stirrer, the time for stirring is when the grain is in the bag, the paint may flake (hardly desirable if it's Chinese lead toy paint) but at least when you remove the bag you remove the paint flake. Mine has been used for a number of brews now with no discernible issues, let me go one step further and say that compared to my conventional paddle it is far superior in it's ability to displace grain as the conventional mash paddle is too flexible to move a few kg of wet grain.
 

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