50l Keg Conversion Options

[under]

Scored myself a 50L keg. Today I cut out the top with a homemade jig and an angle grinder. Worked a treat. And looks professional once cleaned up and smoothed out (pics to come).

It will be used for BIAB, which I have just ordered from Gryphon brewing. Ive got the lid from a old 20 odd litre pot which fits the gap pretty sweetly. And im going to make up a little stand for the burner to attach to (which the keg will sit on), but need some suggestions on burners (thats where you guys come in).

My next step. Deciding what to do for the draining factor.

Been looking at the weldless ones for the ease. But can get go the welded way if its better.

Not really sure the best way to go from here. I have the keg with the top cut out thats it. Suggestions, or pics of your owns setups would be sweet.

 

[QldKev]

Scored myself a 50L keg. Today I cut out the top with a homemade jig and an angle grinder. Worked a treat. And looks professional once cleaned up and smoothed out (pics to come).

It will be used for BIAB, which I have just ordered from Gryphon brewing. Ive got the lid from a old 20 odd litre pot which fits the gap pretty sweetly. And im going to make up a little stand for the burner to attach to (which the keg will sit on), but need some suggestions on burners (thats where you guys come in).

My next step. Deciding what to do for the draining factor.

Been looking at the weldless ones for the ease. But can get go the welded way if its better.

Not really sure the best way to go from here. I have the keg with the top cut out thats it. Suggestions, or pics of your owns setups would be sweet.

Burners; I have a modified 3 ring and a Mongolian burner. Thunus is using a Nasa, and with the result of my mongolian, I wished I went the Nasa. As a bonus the Nasa comes with a stand that you can sit the keggle on and your done.

With the draining just get a length of copper thread, a flared nut for each side of the keg with a decent washer on the inside, then adapt the inside to syphon/tap outside.

QldKev

 

[bradsbrew]

What was the problem with your mongolian Kev?? I am looking at a new burner as well. The three ringa just ist going to cut it with the new 100L kettle.

Brad

 

[clean brewer]

What was the problem with your mongolian Kev?? I am looking at a new burner as well. The three ringa just ist going to cut it with the new 100L kettle.

Brad

Brad, check out Austcrown to for burners, HP Regs, Hoses aswell, great pricing....

:icon_cheers: CB

 

[under]

Model: HPA100
Description: Medium Pressure Burner with Piezo Electric Ignition
Gas Type: Propane
Heat Capacity (Mj/Hr): 49


Thats what I was looking at. Why does this one say propane, when the others say LPG??? I got quoted $159 for this with the hp reg and ss line.

 

[QldKev]

What was the problem with your mongolian Kev?? I am looking at a new burner as well. The three ringa just ist going to cut it with the new 100L kettle.

Brad

I've had a couple of brew days with Thunus, we both BIAB to the same measurements eg 29L original water etc. His Nasa (using adj med pressure reg) with the air vent closed still beats my mongolian to get to mash in temp by a few minutes. With the Nasa air vent open they would be faster again. When you throttle the gas back to hold a rolling boil the Mongolian soots up really bad, the Nasa stays virtually clean. Now that hard part for my as I wanted a quite burner, when we both are bringing the brew to the boil the Mongolian is just as loud if not louder if you keep the Nasa air vent closed. Now if you open the air vent on the Nasa you would get a lot more noise; but you do get a lot more heat, in the case here Thunus leaves his vent closed but has the option to open it at any stage.

I still am playing with my burner to try and get more air around it as that may help my boil times. To be fail the Monglian burner is still faster that my 3 ring burner that is running a medium pressure reg.

Also 'under', the Mongolian is rated at 82 Mj/Hr. The main difference with the Nasa is they are capable of being run with higher pressure regs to get more from them.


QldKev

 

[under]

Yeah. Think im going with an italian spiral, with the adj. medium pressue reg and 3m line, through beerbelly.

 

[Cortez The Killer]

The other option is an immersion element - a lot quieter than a nasa

Not sure if it would cause issues with the BIAB method though :unsure:

Cheers

 

[under]

The other option is an immersion element - a lot quieter than a nasa

Not sure if it would cause issues with the BIAB method though :unsure:

Cheers

Thought about that. Id rather buy something I can use for other applications. And the italian spiral seems like a good solid option at a decent price.

Getting back on topic anyone willing to give some input on what valve assembly etc I could use to drain the wort?

 

[QldKev]

I don't think the immersion element would be an issue with BIAB. When you are ramping up the temp initally there is no bag, and in my case when I bring the kettle up to mash out temps I hang the bag above it. The only issue for me would be getting enough power from elec; my current ramp up time is roughly what 2 x 2400w elements would give me. Maybe I just need to learn to be more patient. Like you said thou, the elements are 100% quite and zero soot.

Don't get me wrong I'm not saying the Mongolian is a peice of crap, just for the noise to boil times I wish I had gone the Nasa.

QldKev

 

[Cortez The Killer]

Getting back on topic anyone willing to give some input on what valve assembly etc I could use to drain the wort?

Here are some pictures of my set up - http://hyperfox.info/webalbum04/

Probably the easiest without welding would be

Ball Valve --> Threaded Pipe --> Nut --> Vessel Wall --> Silicone Washer --> Flange Nut --> Compression Fitting --> Copper Pipe (bent toward outside of Vessel)

Silicone washer can be made from silicone baking tin from $2 shop with a stanley knife

Drilling a hole probably the easiest to do with a stepped drill bit (I used water to keep everything cool while drilling - but use some sort of lube)

Cheers

Edit: and plenty of plumbers tape

 

[QldKev]

As Cortez has said.

Here's a rough pic




QldKev

 

[under]

Something like this with a copper pcikup tube at the back and a cam lock fitting on the front???

 

[QldKev]

Looks the part, even has those high temp washers.

QldKev

 

[under]

Here is what I have done so far. Still need to put a tap in and maybe a dial thermometer (dont know if its a good idea?)

 

[Sammus]

Here is what I have done so far. Still need to put a tap in and maybe a dial thermometer (dont know if its a good idea?)

I'd use a few more layers of camping mat, theyre pretty good insulation, but also pretty thin. Only about $5-6ea, so I'd go overboard and do at least 2 layers

 

[under]

Yeah I thought about that. But I was only using the mat for the first initial layer for mashing to keep most of the heat sealed in, then was going to use a old sleeping bag/doonah over the whole lot as the main insulator. It seems the way everyone else is doing it. That mat cost me $11 from Kmart. Where are they cheaper? (I feel jibbed)

You think an italian spiral burner underneath will burn the mat while im heating it up for mashing or will I have to take it off, or pull it up a little. During the boil I will remove it but for the mash if I add hot water from inside im not going to require much more heat to get it to strike.

 

[Kleiny]

Dont put a burner anywhere near the matting

I had the camping mat on my mash tun for a start and walked back out to the brewery to see preety much the whole mat on fire during a brew session

My vote is take it off if you want to use a burner anywhere near it

Kleiny

Edit: block out the actual owner of the keg in the photo's

 

[razz]

I don't suppose you rang the (fire brigade) locals Trav?
:lol:

 

[Kleiny]

I don't suppose you rang the (fire brigade) locals Trav?
:lol:

NO F*&^ING WAY

Just put it out quietly and never spoke of it until this day :lol: