2nd BIAB - Unsure of volumes/method though

[hapitan]

Hey,

Firstly thanks for your help on my first AG brew. I've had a few bottles and I'm pretty damn happy with it. Tastes really nice and goes down quickly and easily. Best I've made so far!

I'm hoping to get going on my second AG brew next weekend - this time with more volume (to reduce the cost per bottle cost and because I get more beer that way!)

I'm planning a hoppy American Pale Ale:

Brew Method: BIAB
Style Name: American Pale Ale
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 21 liters (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 28.5 liters
Boil Gravity: 1.038
Efficiency: 75% (brew house)
No Chill: 5 minute extended hop boil time

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.051
Final Gravity: 1.014
ABV (standard): 4.86%
IBU (tinseth): 41.54
SRM (morey): 7.01

FERMENTABLES:
4 kg - United Kingdom - Maris Otter Pale (87%)
0.3 kg - American - Caramel / Crystal 20L (6.5%)
0.3 kg - American - Munich - Light 10L (6.5%)

HOPS:
15 g - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 7, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 14.41
15 g - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 7, Use: Boil for 30 min, IBU: 11.72
15 g - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 11.03
10 g - Amarillo, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.6, Use: Boil for 0 min, IBU: 2.31
7 g - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Boil for 0 min, IBU: 2.07
10 g - Amarillo, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.6, Use: Dry Hop for 3 days

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05
However I'm not quite sure how to get it all to fit.

Basically, I have a 28L pot. Obviously 4.6kg of grain + 28L isn't going to fit, which means I'll have to fiddle with the numbers a bit.

I'm looking for advice on the grain bill/recipe above, but also on the techniques to manage this with my pot.

Can I do a 60min mash with the grain + 21L of water (at around 67 degrees C), then when I've removed the grain pour another 7L of water on top of it (sparge) to bring it up to 28L for the boil?

Is 28L even the right number? Am I going to lose 7L in a 60 minute boil?

This time I'm going to take many more notes so I can go into future brews better understanding the equipment. I'm really asking for help because I think my numbers are a little off everywhere.

Thanks again.

 

[DU99]

have read of this article..might give you some idea's..it helped me
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/55617-step-by-step-biab-lcba-clone/

 

[beercus]

My BIAB IN 30L (urn) uses 24L for mash and an 8L sparge.

I dunk sparge into a big W 20L pot @ around 75oC

I would loss about 4-5L in the boil. Aim for around 23-24L in the cube.

Beercus

 

[schtev]

I would be very surprised if you lose 7L during a 60 minute boil. It might be worth you doing a test boil with just water to get an idea of your boil-off rate. Do a rolling boil for 15 mins, recording your volume before and after. Once done, multiply by 4 to get your approximate hourly boil-off. Will make calculating your volumes much easier!

 

[motman]

Watch out for boil overs - sounds like you are considering boiling with a pot full to the brim? I find I need about a foot of space at the top of my 70l pot to avoid painful boil overs. Maybe consider fermenter top ups with a more concentrated boil.

 

[Blind Dog]

Look up maxiBIAB. I used to use a version of maxiBIAB to brew 22l batches in a 19L BigW stock pot. It's pretty easy and reliable

 

[RdeVjun]

Yup, 28L pot can yield 21L in bottles without any great hassle (MaxiBIAB techniques get you over the line), but if you're not sure or confident in the process then I'd recommend sticking with the stock full volume BIAB, aka MiniBIAB until you're familiar with your particular equipment.

 

[stux]

If using Maxibiab, the trick is basically to do a separate sparge in another vessel, which will give you another few L of runnings.

You don't need to add all these runnings in at the start of the boil. You can add them to counteract boil-off as you go.

 

[hapitan]

Nice. Thanks for the links. Looks like that's the way forward for me!

Any suggestions on the grain bill?