100 litre 3v electric brewery build

[fdsaasdf]

https://ebrewsupply.com/collections...-compression-x-1-2-mnpt-bored-through-fitting

Thanks very much for that, I had not realised it was a 1/4" into 1/2". I might pick up a couple myself!

 

[Thefatdoghead]

No worries. Sure you could get them on eBay cheap

 

[Thefatdoghead]

BCS is finally up and running. All probes are working. What a **** around that was.
Ended up with a long Ethernet cable connected straight into the BCS from my home router so I could find the BCS ip address with the finder tool.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

Built a brew stand this arvo. Had some 50 x 50 laying around so used that.

Still trying to decide how to mount the control panel.

It weights as much as the stand itself so won't be any good to have it joined to the stand.

My skin has that welding flash burn smell lol.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

Still have to add the shelf which will strengthen the frame as well.
There will be well over 200kg on the stand when she is going.
More so if I'm boiling and mashing for a double batch.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

Also got some other goodies for the system.

I'll use the large sight glass for viewing mash return and for yeast harvesting.

The other device is for inline oxygenation. It's an ss brewtech kit.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

Bench is just about done. Just need to seal it and then I'll start plumbing.
I'm going to mount the panel on the wall. Make a big shadow board at the same time.

 

[Moad]

I had that issue with bcs too although mine runs on an Ethernet to wifi bridge.

Is it all on the same subnet? I assume it would use some kind of discovery type protocol like dhcp with a broadcast so will need to be on the same broadcast domain (subnet).

I havent fixed the wireless bridge on mine yet, ended up just cabling it in.

 

[Moad]

If you want to open it up to outside set a static ip on your bcs, make sure all network devices are on the same ip range and then just forward port 80 from your wan to the bcs.

Not sure of your network or proficiency sorry if you’ve tried the basics

 

[Thefatdoghead]

If you want to open it up to outside set a static ip on your bcs, make sure all network devices are on the same ip range and then just forward port 80 from your wan to the bcs.

Not sure of your network or proficiency sorry if you’ve tried the basics

It's all going thanks mate. Trick was i had to connect the bcs to my modem so I could use the finder app to get the ip.

From there just made the BCS static and made a ip for it on my home router.

Thanks anyway. I'm trying to work out how to program a brew in now.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

Gave it some cabothane clear coat. Hope itll be good with the heat from the pots.

 

[Dan Pratt]

^ ^ id be placing something metal between the pot and timber, it will got very hot at 100c for 90mins and after a few runs its will be ruined.

Checker plate or actual steel, i cant believe you have used wood to be honest.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

^ ^ id be placing something metal between the pot and timber, it will got very hot at 100c for 90mins and after a few runs its will be ruined.

Checker plate or actual steel, i cant believe you have used wood to be honest.

Lol 100c of radiant heat is **** all. I'm just worried about the clear coat sticking to the pot.
I will eventually cover the timber with stainless sheet though.

 

[Moad]

Sorry I missed a page! Something strange with Mac tables I glad you posted that and it’s not just me.

If you need a hand or want to look at my setup let me know I’d be happy to help

 

[Thefatdoghead]

Sorry I missed a page! Something strange with Mac tables I glad you posted that and it’s not just me.

If you need a hand or want to look at my setup let me know I’d be happy to help

Thanks mate. I just can't get my head around how to run the exit state.

Have you got any info that explains it easier than embedded control concepts?
I know what they are getting at but why would you have like 3 exit states on one state?
So I can have the temp probe exit that state and then also have the push button to do it?

Also could I see your setup for a simple step mash and moving through to boil?

Thanks

 

[Moad]

You might want 2 exit states as a failsafe. For example If you set the MT probe to control HLT elements during strike heating you would set an exit state on your MT probe for strike temp and a second exit state of 90 or so on your HLT probe to avoid it boiling. Or if you had float switches in your HLT and MT you might say for the sparge turn the HLT pump off when MT is full OR when HLT is empty.

I don’t use the above examples but just off the top of my head that’s one reason. I’ll turn the bcs on tomorrow night and open it up for you to have a look if you like? I’ll just have to disconnect elements and pumps!

 

[spog]

Lol 100c of radiant heat is **** all. I'm just worried about the clear coat sticking to the pot.
I will eventually cover the timber with stainless sheet though.

A few pieces of ally checker plate from the big green shed should do the job.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

A few pieces of ally checker plate from the big green shed should do the job.

I've seen some cork just under the pot used as well.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

You might want 2 exit states as a failsafe. For example If you set the MT probe to control HLT elements during strike heating you would set an exit state on your MT probe for strike temp and a second exit state of 90 or so on your HLT probe to avoid it boiling. Or if you had float switches in your HLT and MT you might say for the sparge turn the HLT pump off when MT is full OR when HLT is empty.

I don’t use the above examples but just off the top of my head that’s one reason. I’ll turn the bcs on tomorrow night and open it up for you to have a look if you like? I’ll just have to disconnect elements and pumps!

Right ok. Yeah that would be great. Have you set it up on the web as well?

 

[pcqypcqy]

I've seen some cork just under the pot used as well.

If you're going stainless sheet over it anyway, the domestic regs for splashbacks around stove tops is just some FC sheet with stainless sheet over. If you did that, you'd be absolutely pissing it in. FC sheet costs nothing, just liquid nail it to your plywood and then cover with stainless as you were going to. I think the FC sheet needed to be 6mm or something like that.