Do you know what sort of brew setup you'll be using, eg big pot and bag, Grainfather, Robobrew? Are you going to cool the wort at thr end of the boil or not cool (no chill)? It's important because some recipes consider the extra hop extraction in 'no chill' and some do not - Dr Smurto's golden ale will taste different if it's not chilled after the boil.
To answer your question, recipes are a good place to start but some of the American recipes go a little over the top with the variety of malts. Searching in the Recipes section here will rarely see you led astray.
If you're someone whose likes to tinker, have a look through what is on offer at your local Homebrew store, or at Breiss and Weyermann (as two examples) to see the range. Malts are generally considered base malts (pale ale, pils, pale wheat) which has enzymes and needs conversion in a mash from starch to sugar; crystals (medium crystal, Cara-munich, etc) which are generally limited to 5-10% and which have been kilned long and hot enough to convert all the starch to sugar and then heated up to caramelise/crystallise it; and toasted/roasted malts (amber, brown, chocolate malt) which haven't been converted but have been toasted/roasted and need to be mashed - although getting into chocolate you technically don't need to.
Hops... There are some site sponsors that have good descriptions. How long is a piece of string? Hops will likely push a style from one region to another, eg Centennial and Mosaic in a pale/amber ale would make it American while Challenger and Goldings would make it English.
Yeast is arguably more important than both malt and hops, in terms of character. I love English ale yeasts and use them a lot. The yeast will have a big impact on perception of malt/hops, other fruity/spicy flavours, clarity of the beer, how dry or alcoholic the beer ends up, etc. So you should get to a point where you consider your yeast and build your recipe around that, rather than whack a yeast in at the end.
Lots of wonderful flavours and aromas await.
