Where To Find A Cheap Electric Heating Element For Hlt

[Zizzle]

Beside I am not sure if the kettle elements would be able to heat such a large quantity of water efficiently.

So where do you suppose the wasted energy (heat?) goes?

 

[SJW]

So where do you suppose the wasted energy (heat?) goes?

Good point. I dont think it matters what size element u use as the thermal energy of the heating water will keep it circulating, so the water would still get heat (evenly). Mine is the same shape as the second picture back on post 7. I like the fact that this style bends down to the bottom of the kettle, making more usable HLT space. I would also advise to set your tap up at a point above the element that would allow the HLT to be drained but still leavening the element covered in water. But I guess thats common sense.

Steve

 

[SpillsMostOfIt]

So where do you suppose the wasted energy (heat?) goes?

Out the tea piece?

 

[Screwtop]

Yes, as you are just doing the same thing - generally it will actually cut out immediately if overloaded and you have a safety switch

Kettle elements and fittings are designed for short duty cycles (how long does it take to boil the jug) Plugging in two probably wouldn't trip a 20A breaker until some time had passed and things warmed up a bit. Domestic GPO's (general power outlets) or power points are rated 10A max not the circuit they are on. Naturally you will have a number of appliances running simultaneously on the same circuit drawing greater than 10A collectively.

I tried a jug element first up in my HLT and found that the fitting and lead became very hot over the time taken to reach strike temp, the fitting used to leak a little when it heated up. I got a 1 inch SS tank socket welded into my HLT (Keg) and then screwed in an 1800W 1 inch BSP threaded stokes element which cost me $20 (excess stock). Takes an hour to reach temp, set the timer for 4am get up at 5am and strike water is ready. There are some old pics of this project on AHB.

Screwy

 

[BusinessTime]

As I write I am busily converting my 50ltr SS pot to electric. I lashed out and bought a stokes 2400w element. It is 250mm in length with a 1 1/4" BSP thread.I had a freind weld a socket into the pot so that I could screw it in. The element cost me $80.I thought of using a kettle element but because of the amount of water I want to heat I decided it was better to spend a few extra bucks. Beside I am not sure if the kettle elements would be able to heat such a large quantity of water efficiently.


BYB...

I'm in a similar position to you just deciding on the element. I would be interested to know how long it takes to heat 50L of water. I've tried googeling it and have come up with some random times varying from 40min to 3 hours ... I assume i'm missing something here. I've also read that insulating the pot is worth doing.

 

[Zizzle]

I tried a jug element first up in my HLT and found that the fitting and lead became very hot over the time taken to reach strike temp, the fitting used to leak a little when it heated up.

That reminds me, there are ways around these problems. I used 15amp cable and these:
http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS4013

Not warm to the touch after a 1 hour boil.

Mine have never leaked either despite the curve of the pots they are mounted in.

 

[crozdog]

What is this thing you call "planning"?

To quote Sir John Harvey-Jones:

"Planning is an unnatural process; it is much more fun to do something. The nicest thing about not planning is that failure comes as a complete surprise, rather than being preceded by a period of worry and depression."​

I'd thought about a modified continuous water heater - imagine if you could vary it to a few degrees above your strike temp...

I'm working on that one just need to get a LPG jet & some plumbing fittings.

 

[Screwtop]

That reminds me, there are ways around these problems. I used 15amp cable and these:
http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS4013

Not warm to the touch after a 1 hour boil.

Mine have never leaked either despite the curve of the pots they are mounted in.

Thanks for the info Matt, must get one of those sockets for my HERMS heat exchanger jug element, the seal seems to work fine after using some silicone and the temp control ensures a low duty cycle. With the HLT it seemed that I couldn't get enough of a "squeeze" on the rubber grommet due to the curve of the keg wall. Used to seal until the water heated up.

Screwy

 

[Back Yard Brewer]

I'm in a similar position to you just deciding on the element. I would be interested to know how long it takes to heat 50L of water.

Just put made an AG on Saturday. I had to heat up 45ltrs of water to 81c. Took from memory an hour or just under. Actually around an hour. My mash in went for an hour and my sparge water was ready to go at the same time. The HLT was not isulated either, so it could have been quicker.

BYB

 

[reVoxAHB]

That reminds me, there are ways around these problems. I used 15amp cable and these:
http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS4013

Not warm to the touch after a 1 hour boil.

Mine have never leaked either despite the curve of the pots they are mounted in.

Hey Zizzle,

Where can I find 15Amp cable? I was at Jaycar yesterday and they only sell (as high as) 10Amp. It got me to thinking, have you ever tried a PC power cable as it's rated at 10Amp (and fairly heavy duty in feel)? It's obviously something I can try down the track, unless you advise otherwise.

Is 15Amp cable just home wiring cable?

Looks like I'm going with a cheap electric kettle element (will splash out for 2400W and upgrade on cable, and will re-solder the main circuit, etc. - thanks for that advice).

Oh, and on that note my soldering iron (which is a $9 special and can be replaced) has a 30Amp rated cord. Hack that onto your jaycar end fitting and yer laughing.

Cheers,
reVox

 

[the_fuzz]

It got me to thinking, have you ever tried a PC power cable as it's rated at 10Amp (and fairly heavy duty in feel)? It's obviously something I can try down the track, unless you advise otherwise.

I currently use a PC power cable for my element and over a 1 hour boil it is not really that hot - a little warm, but not hot

 

[Zizzle]

Go to bunnings and look in the electrical section for the orange 15amp cable.

Usually it's cheaper to buy a caravan extension lead than to buy it by the metre of the roll. Go figure.

 

[therook]

Hey Zizzle,

Where can I find 15Amp cable? I was at Jaycar yesterday and they only sell (as high as) 10Amp. It got me to thinking, have you ever tried a PC power cable as it's rated at 10Amp (and fairly heavy duty in feel)? It's obviously something I can try down the track, unless you advise otherwise.

Is 15Amp cable just home wiring cable?

Looks like I'm going with a cheap electric kettle element (will splash out for 2400W and upgrade on cable, and will re-solder the main circuit, etc. - thanks for that advice).

Oh, and on that note my soldering iron (which is a $9 special and can be replaced) has a 30Amp rated cord. Hack that onto your jaycar end fitting and yer laughing.

Cheers,
reVox

I was told by a sparkie that there is no difference in the wiring for 10A/15A.

Revox, how much cable do you want?

if you can get into the city i can give you some orange power cable that is used for 3 phase

PM me if you want some

Rook

Rook

 

[SpillsMostOfIt]

Gotta love those tradesmen...

I forget the numbers, but you will find that the 15Amp cable has more strands of copper than the 10Amp cable, which has more strands of copper than the 7.5Amp cable.

Be aware that there is also cable that looks as thick as the 15Amp cable, but is 10Amp stuff that just has a thicker outer sheath for garden/powerdork work.

If you buy a 15Amp caravan cable, you will need to either have a 15Amp GPO (bigger earth pin) to plug it into or hack it off and install a 10Amp plug. Of course, you *could* take to the earth pin with an angle grinder, but that's a fairly agricultural solution.

 

[Doogiechap]

I was told by a sparkie that there is no difference in the wiring for 10A/15A.

Revox, how much cable do you want?

if you can get into the city i can give you some orange power cable that is used for 3 phase

PM me if you want some

Rook

Rook

Yep those sweeping statements (not you Rook but the Tradesman) can cause headaches...
Extension leads rated to 10 amps will have a copper surface area of 1mm squared minimum per core and 15 amp will have 1.5mm squared minimum. The 10 and 15 amp plugs have the same size active and neutral pins (too small IMHO) but different earth pins. Domestic house wiring legally requires a minimum of 2.5mm cable per circuit irrespective of what 10 or 15 amp outlets are connected to it. Zizzles suggestion of the Bunnings is great, you can get 1.5mm heavy duty cables with a 10 amp plug as well .

Cheers
Doug

 

[therook]

Yep those sweeping statements (not you Rook but the Tradesman) can cause headaches...
Extension leads rated to 10 amps will have a copper surface area of 1mm squared minimum per core and 15 amp will have 1.5mm squared minimum. The 10 and 15 amp plugs have the same size active and neutral pins (too small IMHO) but different earth pins. Domestic house wiring legally requires a minimum of 2.5mm cable per circuit irrespective of what 10 or 15 amp outlets are connected to it. Zizzles suggestion of the Bunnings is great, you can get 1.5mm heavy duty cables with a 10 amp plug as well .

Cheers
Doug

Dougy could you use a 10amp power cable safely to draw 15 amps, i realise the cable will get warm

Rook

 

[Doogiechap]

Perhaps....therefore not safely

My HLT is drawing 12.5 amps through a 1mm/ 10amp cable which gets marginally warm however I will be replacing this in the longer term as it's probably going to fail mid brew if Murphy has anything to do with it h34r: .
Cheers
Doug

 

[warrenlw63]

That reminds me, there are ways around these problems. I used 15amp cable and these:
http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS4013

I did the same thing Zizzle. Only problem I found is the collar end of the plug that squeezes over the cable struggles a bit because the 15 amp cable is a bit thicker than the regular stuff. No big deal though. I just taped up the gap with some Electrical tape.

Warren -

 

[Jono_w]

Guys,

Don't want to be a stick in the mud but.

From a sparkies point of view, its not worth losing your house, family or brew to dodgy electrical setups just to save a couple of bucks.. Spend the extra couple of dollars on the right equipment, they have ratings for a reason.. If the lead is getting hot thats energy not going into your HLT/kettle, marginal maybe....

If its rated at 10amp and your drawing 15amps, its not safe.

Cheers,

Jonathon

 

[Back Yard Brewer]

Just buy a 15amp extension cord if that is what you want.I bought a 15amp cord and cut the female end off.I then wired that end onto my element.

BYB