Super simple PID controller build/wiring

[mofox1]

Assuming you've done your research, but make sure you have completely gone thru the electric brewery guides. Read through and understand the American power version, keeping in mind the supply differences, then read through the 240v county supplement.

It's all there, in fairly decent detail, and send to be a good design. Create a cut down version to suit your needs and run it past your sparkly mate.

Can't see on the mob app version your location... If in melbs you're more than welcome to come round for a chat and a beer.

 

[nathanvonbeerenstein]

Assuming you've done your research, but make sure you have completely gone thru the electric brewery guides. Read through and understand the American power version, keeping in mind the supply differences, then read through the 240v county supplement.

It's all there, in fairly decent detail, and send to be a good design. Create a cut down version to suit your needs and run it past your sparkly mate.

Can't see on the mob app version your location... If in melbs you're more than welcome to come round for a chat and a beer.

Any free time seems to be research at the moment!
Majority of inspiration comes from the electric brewery but I plan to avoid the somewhat unnecessary and complicated additions like a key switch, volt/amp meter and more than the one element I will have (kettle is gas fired). I'll also be sticking to my $1 magnetic digital timer too rather than an Omega panel mount one.
I'm basically trying to make a low cost build along those lines. No auber instruments here, only eBay and Jaycar parts.

If anyone knows of a helpful diagram it would be most appreciated, or in the alternative, id be happy to pay someone substantially more qualified than myself to drum one up to suit my needs and parts.

Is it as simple as removing the parts I don't need and the wiring that powers them when modifying the electric brewery?

Appreciate the generous offer mofox, still in the planning/buying stages at the moment but might take you up on that if I don't make any progress!
Cheers!

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Majority of inspiration comes from the electric brewery but I plan to avoid the somewhat unnecessary and complicated additions like a key switch, volt/amp meter

You wouldn't need any of them. Where on earth did you get those ideas from


To me it sounds like you dont really know what you want, and you are making things rather complicated. You are much better to keep it nice and simple to begin with.

I am not even sure what you actually want anymore.

I am guessing you want some sort of temp controlled brewing setup with bells and whistles....

 

[nathanvonbeerenstein]

You wouldn't need any of them. Where on earth did you get those ideas from


To me it sounds like you dont really know what you want, and you are making things rather complicated. You are much better to keep it nice and simple to begin with.

I am not even sure what you actually want anymore.

I am guessing you want some sort of temp controlled brewing setup with bells and whistles....

Read again mate, I said I DONT want those things haha

I'm trying to make a controller like The Electric Brewery controller WITHOUT the extra bells and whistles and with only 1 PID controlling a single element.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Sorry, typo. I actually meant "without" the bells and whistles

 

[mofox1]

Is it as simple as removing the parts I don't need and the wiring that powers them when modifying the electric brewery?

Of course. There isn't anything magic about the E.B design - just cut out the stuff you don't need. it really can be as simple as PID->SSR->Contactor->Element with a switch and a light or two.

I probably spent 6+ months researching and gathering parts before I put my hand to any tools, but I'm ocd as hell about knowing everything I can about stuff before I do it...

If you haven't got an enclosure yet, I just bought one of these for my grain mill power/controller, should be deep enough for a pid... might be big enough for the rest of the components.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/201484312786

Make sure you mount your SSR heat sink external to the enclosure, otherwise you'll need a fan. Since you've got a din mounted rcd, I'd recommend a din mounted contactor to isolate the element... Other than that, the only other "useful" things that border on "must have" would be indicator lights for power to the box, and power to the element.

And work out well in advance what the layout will be. Do mock ups in paper/card to make sure everything will fit and give clearance for wiring.

 

[nathanvonbeerenstein]

What I've wanted to achieve has evolved once and remained the same Stu; I'm just trying to figure out what's possible within my understanding, budget and needs. Apologies if I'm unclear, I'm still wrapping my head around it all.

Of course. There isn't anything magic about the E.B design - just cut out the stuff you don't need. it really can be as simple as PID->SSR->Contactor->Element with a switch and a light or two.

I probably spent 6+ months researching and gathering parts before I put my hand to any tools, but I'm ocd as hell about knowing everything I can about stuff before I do it...

If you haven't got an enclosure yet, I just bought one of these for my grain mill power/controller, should be deep enough for a pid... might be big enough for the rest of the components.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/201484312786

Make sure you mount your SSR heat sink external to the enclosure, otherwise you'll need a fan. Since you've got a din mounted rcd, I'd recommend a din mounted contactor to isolate the element... Other than that, the only other "useful" things that border on "must have" would be indicator lights for power to the box, and power to the element.

And work out well in advance what the layout will be. Do mock ups in paper/card to make sure everything will fit and give clearance for wiring.

Great advice thanks Mofox.
I shit you not, I bought that exact box from that seller a week ago; it was the best box for the best price and couldn't go past the look of the clear front. The two cable glands will help too. As far as I'm aware it has mounts for a din rail but isn't included.
I'm in Europe so havnt seen the actual box, but are the dimensions supplied internal or external?
With only 110 depth I'll be doing a lot of placement planning first, that's for sure

The contactor I've ordered is din mounted too so will place those just after the input lead.

Am I correct in thinking to place the mushroom stop switch at the start of the hot lead so that when its pushed it simply breaks the connection?
Does it matter if it's before the RCD?

Really appreciate the help! this control box stuffs exciting but tedious

Necessary disclaimed: I know to have everything checked by a qualified sparky.

 

[Camo6]

Great stuff Nathan, subscribed to this thread.
There's certainly nothing wrong with asking questions or researching this stuff just don't take everything you read as gospel. Plenty of sound advice on here and as you've stated you'll use a sparky to keep it safe.
Funny thing is a couple of years ago I had a pretty rudimentary knowledge of AC (only worked with 12v automotive) and built my own controller after months of research and help from a few members. Now I'm an apprentice sparky so be warned it's a slippery slope!