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Control Panel Wiring Diagram

Discussion in 'DIY Projects' started by Vrtigo, 15/4/18.

 

  1. Vrtigo

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    Posted 15/4/18
    Hi All,

    I've been researching / planning a control box build after being inspired by "The Electric Brewery" but with a few changes for a 2 vessel HERMS system.

    The plan is to have 2 vessels (BK/HLT and MT) with elements in just the BK and heat being exchanged via a CFC. I plan to use 1 EZBoil timer (probe in BK), 1 Mash PID (probe in mash tun), 2 pumps for recirculation, a main element in the BK with a secondary element to be used for boosting to boil or when boiling is difficult (in the cold / wind etc).

    While I feel fairly confident about the build I do not feel confident with the wiring. I have taken some time to draw a thorough wiring diagram but would love some feedback from anybody who has built something like this before or who has some degree of electronic experience.

    Wiring Layout v4-3.jpg
     
  2. TwoCrows

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    Posted 15/4/18
    What is the supply amperage?
     
  3. Vrtigo

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    Posted 15/4/18
    I think currently 30A but should be able to increase to 40 if needed, can run element and pumps and dishwasher at the same time no problems but put the microwave on and it trips ^^
     
  4. TwoCrows

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    Posted 15/4/18
    This is my opinion, not looking for a fight!!!

    I find that building this style of control is aimed at a commercial based setup. Large amp supply and health and safety.

    I have a basic set up,all in a jiffy box. 240 Volt power@ 10 amps in, running a PID, on/ off switch and power out. Controls temps just as you need to convert grains to sugars. I use this in my 4 vessel set up.

    The other control box has a STC 100 and 240V outlet as well as pump on / off control thru another 240V 10 amp switch.

    This box can run a keezer , frigde and sample temps where needed. I use this to controll my HLT when running my Robobrew.
    I have the ability to run all that I need ( power wise) from multiple circuits. I can take it on the road and brew anywhere I like, And I do.;)
     
  5. Vrtigo

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    Posted 16/4/18
    So is your recommendation that it would be safer and/or simpler to build two control boxes instead of having it consolidated into one?

    I don't think the amperage should be a problem - currently I brew running my main element, 1 pump and STC controller off one powerboard connected to one outlet. This setup would add in a the controller, another element and another pump in terms of extra amperage (with the extra element only being used to ramp).
     
  6. blakewell26

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    Posted 24/4/18
    Hi mate,
    You are correct, you do not have any idea when it comes to electrical. do not wire it up like that. I see 240v going to a 24v component.
    You are trying to switch the pumps on in auto from an alarm relay on the timer. Why do you want your pumps on a timer anyway?
    Your boost switch is a mess of relays. I would not try wire it like that at all
     
  7. mashhammer

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    Posted 25/4/18
    Blake
    The timer is 240v
     
  8. Vrtigo

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    Posted 26/4/18
    Mash is correct, the timer and PIDs are all 240v.

    The idea behind having the pumps on auto is to set a 'low temp alarm' to desired pitching temp (with ice water recirc via CFC) then pumps are on until temp achieved and turn off as alarm goes. Probably a little redundant but I figured why not. I can also use this set-up to turn on the pumps to sterilise / recirc when boil is about to happen (low temp alarm to like 97 deg).

    I agree that the boost relays are the most clunky part of the set up but could not think of any way of doing it differently if I want to have the ability to switch between OFF / ON (mimicking main element) / Boost (only used in ramp up stage). I am totally open to suggestions on this one.

    Am planning for this to be a bit - by - bit project. I will likely wire up the PIDs, Timer and Pumps (on/off only) to start with, then add in the functionality of alarms auto-pump and boost at a later stage. I'm hoping that by adding in one element at a time it will not become too overwhelming or prone to fail.

    Any other thought or criticisms are appreciated =)
     
  9. captain crumpet

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    Posted 26/4/18
    Your first two relays should be after a 10A breaker, or youre not going to have much fun trying to fit off 6mm cable into them after your 40A RCBO
     
  10. Talon28

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    Posted 27/4/18
    As a Sparky I like the effort you have gone to here. Before I comment I need to know what size kettles your using. using 10 amp CBs means your elements can only be 2400 watts. So lets start witht he quantity and then tell me how long you want to wait to reach the critical temps between wait times. Then we can calculate the thermal units required to drive the kettle.
    Cheers
     
  11. Palmertron

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    Posted 29/4/18
  12. Vrtigo

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    Posted 29/4/18
    Thanks Palmertron, I'll definitely check out those resources - I've had a quick skim and they definitely contain some useful tips.

    Talon my current setup is a single 2400W element in a 40L Birko urn. I am wanting to make this control panel the centrepiece of my brewery with view to upgrading a few times in the coming years. Initially I will add a second 2200W stainless element (https://keg-king.com.au/2200-watt-stainless-steel-heating-element.html) to decrease ramp times (the birko element is fairly inefficient but this may be due to it being high density and the sugars in the wort wanting to stick to it). In a year or so I would like to be able to upgrade my kettle to 80L capacity with 2x 2400W elements (maybe 2 bendable elements from http://www.thermalelectric.com.au) so that I have the flexibility of doing either 25 or 50 L batches.

    My main concern as it stands is if the wiring is a sensible solution/layout that will work as intended while being safe. I figure I can always change components later if I need greater amperage for larger elements however I suspect this would also involve getting an electrician to install a larger amperage outlet in the garage.
     

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