Help Support Aussie Homebrewer by donating:

  1. We have implemented the ability to gift someone a Supporting Membership now! When you access the Upgrade page there is now a 'Gift' button. Once you click that you can enter a username to gift an account Upgrade to. Great way to help support this forum plus give some kudos to anyone who has helped you.
    Dismiss Notice

3500w element question

Discussion in 'Gear and Equipment' started by Vrtigo, 18/7/19.

Tags:

 

  1. Vrtigo

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    10/3/09
    Messages:
    45
    Likes Received:
    5
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Posted 18/7/19
    Hi All,

    I just got a 15A outlet installed in my garage with some recent renovations so am now looking to upgrade from the 10A element in my 40L Birko urn to a 15A element.

    I am using a control system similar to The Electric Brewery and it is rated to 30A so 15A will be no problem.

    I originally planning to go with the 3300w element from Mash to Brew but it is just a little long (the diameter of the urn is 35cm and so is the element:
    https://www.mashtobrew.com.au/heating-elements/3300w-stainless-steel-heating-element

    I am now looking at these two element each with a minor hassle:

    This one is a great length and wattage (and looks cool) but does not have a screw thread for a terminal cover. I also cannot see a grounding screw on the terminal. How should I ground this? Should I then silicone a cover on afterwards?
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/240V-36...142&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982


    This one is good wattage and size and has a screw on cover however the thread depth looks too shallow to affix silicone washers and nuts AND the terminal cover. Am assuming I will need to source a 2" Stainless Steel hex straight coupler? Will also be a bigger hole to drill in the urn.
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brewing...064&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851



    I have been searching ebay for hours over a few days and these are the two best options I have found. Would love the input of anybody who has tried to do something similar or even some links to some alternative options?

    Cheers,

     
  2. sp0rk

    Mayor of Pooptown

    Joined:
    13/2/11
    Messages:
    4,111
    Likes Received:
    1,032
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Muswellbrook
    Posted 18/7/19
    If you have a 1" socket welded to your vessel, the Mash To Brew element should just fit
    I personally wouldn't use the 2nd element, too much faffing about IMHO
    The 3rd one will need a 2" triclamp flange welded to your vessel to be able to use it
     
    MHB likes this.
  3. Vrtigo

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    10/3/09
    Messages:
    45
    Likes Received:
    5
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Posted 19/7/19
    Unfortunately would be drilling the hole myself and internal diameter is 35cm while pipe length is also 35cm so won't fit considering also need room for the nut / screw portion internally.

    I'm considering this one now:
    Heating Element Immersion 220V/380V SUS304 DN40 3KW/4.5KW/6KW/9K1.5''BSP:
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Heating...762&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982

    It's rated 220v - 3kw so I can assume 240v - 3,273w which is pretty much the same as the mash to brew element, just shorter in length but with 3x loops instead of one foldback loop. At least no fiddling around as it comes with Silicone Seal and Stainless Cover.
     
  4. sp0rk

    Mayor of Pooptown

    Joined:
    13/2/11
    Messages:
    4,111
    Likes Received:
    1,032
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Muswellbrook
    Posted 19/7/19
    A weld in socket would add another 3cm to 4cm to the measurement of your vessel diameter as the element would then mount from the outside, so the element "should" then fit

    That newest element link doesn't look to have a nut included, you'll have to source one if you're going to mount the element without welding anything in

    Another option to allow longer elements is to use a weld on triclamp flange on the vessel side, then a screw on triclamp flange on the element
    If you're good with soft silver solder or brazing, you could go down that route to attach them and not have to pay for sanitary welding (if you don't have a mate with a TIG setup)

    Urns tend to have fairly thin stainless, so can be a bit difficult to weld. So one other option would be to use this weldless triclamp flange
    https://www.kegland.com.au/2inch-tri-clover-bulkhead-weldless-bulkhead.html
    A little more expensive, but no welding/soldering/brazing
     
  5. Vrtigo

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    10/3/09
    Messages:
    45
    Likes Received:
    5
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Posted 19/7/19
    Thanks for the clarification.

    Unfortunately don't have access to anyone who can weld stainless so won't be able to go that route.

    So far haven't had an issue with my screw thread fittings but I soak in PBW after each brew and disassemble / replace silicone seals every 12 months.

    Might continue down that line and go with either weldless bulkhead or the element previously linked.

    Thanks for your input.
     
  6. sp0rk

    Mayor of Pooptown

    Joined:
    13/2/11
    Messages:
    4,111
    Likes Received:
    1,032
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Muswellbrook
    Posted 19/7/19
    I find it's only really fittings above 1/2" that have any problems sealing when not welded, but if you're lucky they'll still seal well
     
  7. Vrtigo

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    10/3/09
    Messages:
    45
    Likes Received:
    5
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Posted 20/7/19
    Thanks a bunch for the tri-clover bulkhead recommendation Sp0rk - the more I think about it the more I like it.

    Not only with this allow the element to fit, but will also facilitate removal of the element after a brew to allow easier cleaning of the vessels and will also let me soak the elements in a bucket of PBW should scorching occur.

    Appreciate your insight and solution to my dilemma - would not have thought of it myself.

    Cheers Mate,
     
  8. TwoCrows

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    10/12/13
    Messages:
    398
    Likes Received:
    137
    Gender:
    Male
    Posted 20/7/19
  9. Vrtigo

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    10/3/09
    Messages:
    45
    Likes Received:
    5
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Posted 21/7/19
    That's awesome, looks like the same as the one I purchased just with stainless cover instead of plastic. I got my 50L mash tun from cheeky peaky and it has been brilliant although when I purchased a year ago there was no option for welded Tri clamp fittings. Will try the weldless bulkhead on mine and keep fingers crossed no leaks. Worst case scenario will have to source somebody to weld it for me.

    Am planning to buy a kettle from them next year, great to know they now do Tri clamp fittings.
     
  10. buckerooni

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    7/2/12
    Messages:
    466
    Likes Received:
    121
    Gender:
    Male
    Posted 21/7/19
    wow, that's a good price. having a removable element for cleaning is great, and makes rinsing the pot easier as it's another way for gunk to leave the pot.

    I went the silver soldering tri clover approach from brewhardware.com but the weldless option is so much simpler, and now at a good local price.
     
  11. TwoCrows

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    10/12/13
    Messages:
    398
    Likes Received:
    137
    Gender:
    Male
    Posted 21/7/19
    Just check that the element will pass through the weldless triclover bulkhead.
     
  12. Vrtigo

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    10/3/09
    Messages:
    45
    Likes Received:
    5
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Posted 21/7/19
    Yeah the elements can fit through 30mm hole and internal diameter of bulkhead is 35mm. Only concern is leakage but once it has arrived and I have fitted it will let you know. Might also get 2x ss washers to go non-vessel side of gaskets if needed to complete the seal...
     

Share This Page