When Do Bottle Bombs Happen?

[attackandvine]

Hi,

Just done my first brew (kit), and curious about when bottle bombs are likely to happen - during conditioning at room temp (right after bottlinga0, or during refrigerated conditioning?

I get it that it's all to do with SG and priming, and you must wait 'til wort has finished fermenting.
Priming was slightly tricky, because I have both 750 mL and 640 mL bottles. Put slightly less caster sugar in 640s from the priming scoop - but wasn't very exact.
Too much sugar = over carbonation = possible explosion right?
Not worried about SG: Pilsner in bottles OG 1045, SG @ bottling 1010.

Also, I've heard different things about conditioning temperatures. At the moment, the pilsner is conditioning at room temp (around 18 degrees). Some people say it should be refrigerated after the first two weeks if possible. However, I suspect that conditioning has probably got more to do with stability of temp?

I can store some in a beer fridge, but not all. Planning on doing another batch as well, which will make this really hard.
Ambient temperature here is very stable. Only moves a 3 or 4 degrees max between day and night. So, does this mean I can condition my brew under these conditions?

Another question: Read a few threads that suggest conditioning should be done with bottles upright. Is there any problem conditioning with bottles laying flat?

Thanks, -Jonny

 

[warra48]

Given the OG and FG you mention, and the careful considered amount of priming sugar, I don't see you having bottle bombs.
Bottle bombs happen for a number of reasons, including:

1. Fermentation incomplete or stalled at bottling time, leaving too many fermentables in the bottle, and causing excess pressure. You don't have a problem.
2. Overpriming. You don't have a problem from what you describe you did with priming.
3. Infection, causing the bacteria to eat all the goodies in your beer, and causing excess pressure. You don't have a problem, and you will become aware of this once you start drinking your bottles, should the unlikely occur.

It is normal practice to condition your bottles at ambient room temperature, not in the fridge. Normal temperature fluctuations are not an issue if you can store it out of the light, and keep it reasonably stable.

Store your bottles upright. This will allow the residual yeast and other unwanted matter to drop to the bottom of your bottle, making it easy to pour without disturbing it (and ending up with a cloudy glass of beer). If you store them lying flat, you'll find it near impossible to pour a clear beer.

 

[attackandvine]

Excellent. Those were the answers I was looking for. Thanks.

 

[Screwtop]

Hi,

Just done my first brew (kit), and curious about when bottle bombs are likely to happen - during conditioning at room temp (right after bottlinga0, or during refrigerated conditioning?

I get it that it's all to do with SG and priming, and you must wait 'til wort has finished fermenting.
Priming was slightly tricky, because I have both 750 mL and 640 mL bottles. Put slightly less caster sugar in 640s from the priming scoop - but wasn't very exact.
Too much sugar = over carbonation = possible explosion right?
Not worried about SG: Pilsner in bottles OG 1045, SG @ bottling 1010.

Also, I've heard different things about conditioning temperatures. At the moment, the pilsner is conditioning at room temp (around 18 degrees). Some people say it should be refrigerated after the first two weeks if possible. However, I suspect that conditioning has probably got more to do with stability of temp?

I can store some in a beer fridge, but not all. Planning on doing another batch as well, which will make this really hard.
Ambient temperature here is very stable. Only moves a 3 or 4 degrees max between day and night. So, does this mean I can condition my brew under these conditions?

Another question: Read a few threads that suggest conditioning should be done with bottles upright. Is there any problem conditioning with bottles laying flat?

Thanks, -Jonny

One little search will turn up a plethora of info re priming, check bulk (sensible) priming. Yeast needs warmth to work ie: carbonate your bottled beer, once the yeast has consumed the sugar and made a little bit more alcohol and Co2 the beer is carbonated. Store it where and how you like then at whatever temp you like. Stored on their sides, yeast will accumulate on the side of the bottle, when you turn it up to open it before pouring the yeast will be disturbed. If you don't mind yeasty/cloudy beer then np prob. If you have neglected sanitisation in your bottling regime then there is a risk of bottle bombs in any case.

 

[attackandvine]

It's interesting you bring up sanitisation. I was pedantic about this with everything that came in contact with the brew.
However, I can't help but think a lot of the advice about bleach soaking is not appropriate for bottles that started out reasonably clean.

I had about 20 coopers longnecks that I did give a light bleaching. Only for one hour, and in 10mL/5L solution. Followed by double v.hot water rinse.
Since the bottles hadn't been sitting in someone's shed for years, I think this was probably enough.

I also bought some fresh ones from the local home brew shop.
These are brand new, dust free, and stored in a sealed box.
These I didn't bleach - but I did give them the double hot water rinse.

Sound sufficient?

 

[NickB]

Should be fine, but you should invest in a no-rinse sanitiser - plenty to choose from at the above sponsors - to save yourself some time on bottling day. As long as your bottles are clean, give them a squirt of no-rinse, drain, and bottle.

Or you could just bottle in plastic, eh Bonj?


h34r:


edit: Woot - 500 posts and about bloody time too! Time for a celebratory beer methinks! :beerbang:

 

[Screwtop]

It's interesting you bring up sanitisation. I was pedantic about this with everything that came in contact with the brew.
However, I can't help but think a lot of the advice about bleach soaking is not appropriate for bottles that started out reasonably clean.

I had about 20 coopers longnecks that I did give a light bleaching. Only for one hour, and in 10mL/5L solution. Followed by double v.hot water rinse.
Since the bottles hadn't been sitting in someone's shed for years, I think this was probably enough.

I also bought some fresh ones from the local home brew shop.
These are brand new, dust free, and stored in a sealed box.
These I didn't bleach - but I did give them the double hot water rinse.

Sound sufficient?

There's a difference between cleaning and sanitising. If your bottles were soiled or had been stored in a shed for years then they would need "cleaning" before "sanitising", for this you would use a cleaner like a percarbonate (napisan) "cleaner". Sanitisation is used to kill the things you can't see, yeast spores and bacteria that can come from contact and simply from the air, here's a freebie (you can never be too fussy when it comes to sanitisation). The weak bleach solution you used was probably at the no rinse level anyway, rinsing after sanitisation is fine as long as your water is bug free, but like Nick says get yourself some no rinse sanitiser, definitely the easy way to sanitise. After emptying I always tripple rinse each bottle and store upside down to drain, this way there is no soiling in the bottle and no need to "clean" prior to use only "sanitise".

Screwy