Wanting To Try A Partial

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Siborg

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I want to try ag, but i thought it might be an idea to try a partial first. Any one have any good recipes or can you point me in the right direction? I don't mind doing smaller batches for now. What size pot will I need? Any other gear I may need?
 
The point of partials (as I understand it) is to be able to brew with grain using the gear you already have. All you really need is a pot and an appropriate bag (or strainer).

So what gear do you already have? How big a pot do you have? Do you have 2 big pots? How about an esky with a tap?

At a simple level, doing a partial is really not that different to steeping some specialty grains. If we have an idea of the gear you have already, then that can help answering your questions.
 
The point of partials (as I understand it) is to be able to brew with grain using the gear you already have. All you really need is a pot and an appropriate bag (or strainer).

So what gear do you already have? How big a pot do you have? Do you have 2 big pots? How about an esky with a tap?

At a simple level, doing a partial is really not that different to steeping some specialty grains. If we have an idea of the gear you have already, then that can help answering your questions.
I have a couple of 8-10L pots. I have an old esky with a tap I may be able to use as we don't use it much. I'll need a mash tun later anyway, so I may as well start on one. I have a large strainer. No fabric to use as a bag yet.
 
Basic Brewing Radio has some podcasts about doing partials with an unmodified esky (with a tap).

September 14, 2006 - Making Ciders & Countertop Mashing
Ben Watson, author of Cider, Hard and Sweet: History, Traditions, and Making Your Own, joins us to introduce us to the world of homemade ciders. Also, Chris Colby of Brew Your Own magazine lets us in on his method of partial mashing using an unmodified two-gallon drinking cooler.
http://media.libsyn.com/media/basicbrewing/bbr09-14-06.mp3

October 4, 2007 - Countertop Partial Mashing Revisited
Chris Colby of Brew Your Own magazine gives us an update on what he's learned about doing partial mashes with a countertop cooler.
http://media.libsyn.com/media/basicbrewing...artialmash2.mp3

September 10, 2009 - Partially Crazy
Chris Colby, editor of Brew Your Own magazine, revisits his countertop partial mashing technique with some recipes that are a bit out of the ordinary.
http://media.libsyn.com/media/basicbrewing...0-09partial.mp3

I haven't tried the method myself but it's inspired me to give it a try.

Cheers,
Finn.
 
I want to try ag, but i thought it might be an idea to try a partial first. Any one have any good recipes or can you point me in the right direction? I don't mind doing smaller batches for now. What size pot will I need? Any other gear I may need?

What kind of beers do you like? I can hunt up some old recipes when I get home this afternoon.
 
I might get shot down for this but I wanted to be sure the starch was converted fully so I went and got some iodine.. I know a lot don't bother but I wanted to be sure I was doing it right, I expect I can do away with it later. As for recipes, this doc will explain how to convert AG to partials or extract. Cheers
View attachment convert_mash_to_extract.pdf
 
10litre pots mean you wont be able to make a batch any bigger than about 8 litres.
having said that, you can do a double batch.
There was an artikle years back in the US BYO magazine, and they called it the Texas two step.
It just takes heaps more time, mate.

My suggestion to you, would be get the biggest cheap pot you can get your hands on, and two mayo buckets and do the bucket in a bucket mash tun thing.
 
Hmm I think that a couple of the posters have missed the point somewhat, that you want to do a partial and not a little AG batch. Anyway, if you already have a 10l stockpot and an old esky, here's what I used to do:
decor.JPG

pots.JPG
  • Decor container from Woolies will mash up to 2k of grain
  • Prepare a water bath at 68 degrees in the esky
  • Mix grain and hot water to fill the decor, aim for around 66 degrees (Add water at around 75 degrees and as you get to the full volume, adjust with hot or cold water, tricky but you'll get the hang of it)
  • Place the Decor in the esky, put lids on of course and walk away for an hour.
  • Strain the mash through the big strainer ($5 from Go Lo or Sam's) into the 10L pot. Put mash back in the decor, fill again with hot water at about 75 degrees and strain again into pot. This is sparging.
  • Keep going until you have collected about 9 litres, meanwhile bringing the pot to the boil on the burner or stovetop
  • Watching carefully for boilovers, boil for an hour with hop additions at the start and then about ten minutes before the end of the boil. use some swiss voile or cheesecloth to make little hop 'teabags' if you like.
  • Cover stockpot and carefully place in laundry sink with cold water supply to cool the wort.

Then it depends what style you are after, I used to do a very nice little Carlton lookalike using 2k of Pilsener malt and a bland kit such as Coopers Canadian and 500g of dex, and a yeast such as US-05. IMHO it will turn out almost as good as an AG and miles ahead of a simple kit brew.

Happy brewing. :super:

PS I still use all the bits, the Decor now holds my brewing salts, polyclar and whirlfloc and I use the pots for boiling up adjuncts such as rice, and the strainers when I'm steeping or washing my sushi rice :) , so no money wasted in equipment.
 
That's pretty much what I thought he was asking Briby, but for a recipe it's hard to give one without knowing how big a mash he can do.

Personally, I can do about 13-14lt of 5% abv (whilst maintaining SOME efficiency) with my 15lt pot, so I load in what grains I want that are going to impart real flavour (cara-xxxx, crystal, vienna, pilsner, biscuit, etc), do my mash/boil, and just pad out to my desired batch size with LDME when I throw it into the fermenter (or settle with 13-14lt going into the fermenter :) ). That works fine when the LDME is just padding out what would have been more pale malt anyway, but if someone is doing an even smaller batch (i.e 8lt) I wouldn't feel qualified to comment and reckon my advice would be pretty poor, and if they had a 20lt pot, I'd suggest they just do an AG batch - cause what's 4 litres between mates?

(Oh, and good post btw Briby)
 
Have a read of this thead. It lists the bare necessities for mashing grain successfully.
Nick, I've read through that thread many, many times. Don't worry... I'll be trying that very soon. Now, is that recipe you use an AG batch? And its AG using BIAB? I need to source those grains and may even have to get them shipped. I think I want to try a partial first to see the difference. But I would like the idea of doing a smaller partial batch (ie. 9L) like you have used in that thread, more for the purpose of learning and trial and error.

Hmm I think that a couple of the posters have missed the point somewhat, that you want to do a partial and not a little AG batch. Anyway, if you already have a 10l stockpot and an old esky, here's what I used to do:

  • Decor container from Woolies will mash up to 2k of grain
  • Prepare a water bath at 68 degrees in the esky
  • Mix grain and hot water to fill the decor, aim for around 66 degrees (Add water at around 75 degrees and as you get to the full volume, adjust with hot or cold water, tricky but you'll get the hang of it)
  • Place the Decor in the esky, put lids on of course and walk away for an hour.
  • Strain the mash through the big strainer ($5 from Go Lo or Sam's) into the 10L pot. Put mash back in the decor, fill again with hot water at about 75 degrees and strain again into pot. This is sparging.
  • Keep going until you have collected about 9 litres, meanwhile bringing the pot to the boil on the burner or stovetop
  • Watching carefully for boilovers, boil for an hour with hop additions at the start and then about ten minutes before the end of the boil. use some swiss voile or cheesecloth to make little hop 'teabags' if you like.
  • Cover stockpot and carefully place in laundry sink with cold water supply to cool the wort.

Then it depends what style you are after, I used to do a very nice little Carlton lookalike using 2k of Pilsener malt and a bland kit such as Coopers Canadian and 500g of dex, and a yeast such as US-05. IMHO it will turn out almost as good as an AG and miles ahead of a simple kit brew.

Happy brewing. :super:

PS I still use all the bits, the Decor now holds my brewing salts, polyclar and whirlfloc and I use the pots for boiling up adjuncts such as rice, and the strainers when I'm steeping or washing my sushi rice :) , so no money wasted in equipment.
What size is the decor container? How big a batch will that do? I want to try smaller batches, as per NickJD's post. Then again, if I have to do a bigger batch, I'm not too fussed.

Cheers guys!
 
What kind of beers do you like? I can hunt up some old recipes when I get home this afternoon.
Big fan of the pale ales at the moment. Pretty much like anything as long as the flavours aren't too outrageous, like chocolate stouts etc.
 
I think that's one of the 8L containers??

Sweet post Bribie :D
 
Yup just checked, it's 8.5L and will handle 2k of grain at the most. If you wanted to do, say a 10L brew you could use 2k of Ale malt, 750g of light dried malt extract and a single 15g addition of Pride of Ringwood or 10g Superpride, ferment with cultured-up Coopers yeast and you'd end up with a good pale ale, Sparkling style. However for me, 10L would just be a tease :p
 
Yup just checked, it's 8.5L and will handle 2k of grain at the most. If you wanted to do, say a 10L brew you could use 2k of Ale malt, 750g of light dried malt extract and a single 15g addition of Pride of Ringwood or 10g Superpride, ferment with cultured-up Coopers yeast and you'd end up with a good pale ale, Sparkling style. However for me, 10L would just be a tease :p

Well thats the thing... I think I'll try it that way and see. If I really like it, I'll find a way to do a 20L batch. Could I use Safale US05 instead of coopers yeast? And at what stage would I do the hop addition and for how long?
 
1 kg pilsner malt
500g vienna malt
500g munich malt
200g biscuit malt

Mash 60 minutes with 5 litres water at 65 degrees, drain and sparge with 7 litres water

= 10 litres in the kettle. Boil 60 minutes

Add 40g tettnanger@ 60 minutes
40g@ 20 minutes
10g at flameout

Dissolve 1.5 kg ldme in hot wort and chill with lid on in a water bath.

Add to fermenter, top up to 20 Litres with boiled cooled water.

Yeast either US05 or German ale yeast WY1007

Assuming a 60 % efficiency, preboil gravity: 1040 OG: 1048
Bitterness: 36 IBU

Assuming FG of 1010: ABV = 4.9%

This is a partial version of a current recipe favourite of mine.
 
Just downloaded the beersmith trial. I'll have a play with a few numbers and see what I get.
 
1 kg pilsner malt
500g vienna malt
500g munich malt
200g biscuit malt

Mash 60 minutes with 5 litres water at 65 degrees, drain and sparge with 7 litres water

= 10 litres in the kettle. Boil 60 minutes

Add 40g tettnanger@ 60 minutes
40g@ 20 minutes
10g at flameout

Dissolve 1.5 kg ldme in hot wort and chill with lid on in a water bath.

Add to fermenter, top up to 20 Litres with boiled cooled water.

Yeast either US05 or German ale yeast WY1007

Assuming a 60 % efficiency, preboil gravity: 1040 OG: 1048
Bitterness: 36 IBU

Assuming FG of 1010: ABV = 4.9%

This is a partial version of a current recipe favourite of mine.
Couple of questions, manticle:
Mash at 65C, so strike temp should be around 73C? Can I strain the first mash straight into the pot for boiling? What temp sparge water do I use? and sparging is pouring that 7 litres of water through the strainer with all the grain in it, yeah?

With the hops... what is flameout? and how long do I leave the hops in there at those times? (I'll probably put em in bags)

Sorry for all the questions. I actually wanna try this, but I wanna make sure I've got it right.
 
Couple of questions, manticle:
Mash at 65C, so strike temp should be around 73C? Can I strain the first mash straight into the pot for boiling? What temp sparge water do I use? and sparging is pouring that 7 litres of water through the strainer with all the grain in it, yeah?

With the hops... what is flameout? and how long do I leave the hops in there at those times? (I'll probably put em in bags)

Sorry for all the questions. I actually wanna try this, but I wanna make sure I've got it right.

Calculating strike temp is something you'll need to figure out for your equipment. Mine is usually about 10 degrees above but some are less. Use 73 as a start and adjust with boiling/cold water (bit by bit) as you mash in.

There can be some issues with pouring hot wort although I used to be pretty rough with mine when I did partials. If you can use the esky with the tap just attach some silicon hose so you can drain into the bottom of the pot and minimise splashing.

Sparge water around 75 - 78 degrees. To sparge just pour the sparge water in to whatever your mashing vessel is, leave 10 minutes to settle again, then drain.

Flameout is the end of the boil (0 minutes).

Hops stay in so first addition at the start of the boil. I boil for 15 minutes before adding my first addition and beginning the timing of the boil - suopposedly it helps drive off DMS (di-methyl sulfide, a beer fault).

ie - first addition, boil for 40 minutes then add second addition, boil for another 20 minutes, add last addition and chill pot. When ready to pitch you can take the bags out.

Don't apologise for asking questions.
 
Calculating strike temp is something you'll need to figure out for your equipment. Mine is usually about 10 degrees above but some are less. Use 73 as a start and adjust with boiling/cold water (bit by bit) as you mash in.

There can be some issues with pouring hot wort although I used to be pretty rough with mine when I did partials. If you can use the esky with the tap just attach some silicon hose so you can drain into the bottom of the pot and minimise splashing.

Sparge water around 75 - 78 degrees. To sparge just pour the sparge water in to whatever your mashing vessel is, leave 10 minutes to settle again, then drain.

Flameout is the end of the boil (0 minutes).

Hops stay in so first addition at the start of the boil. I boil for 15 minutes before adding my first addition and beginning the timing of the boil - suopposedly it helps drive off DMS (di-methyl sulfide, a beer fault).

ie - first addition, boil for 40 minutes then add second addition, boil for another 20 minutes, add last addition and chill pot. When ready to pitch you can take the bags out.

Don't apologise for asking questions.
hmmm. So the way I see it, I still need a small to medium esky (enough to hold at least 5 liters) and have a tap. I already have some clear hose to drain into the pot. Speaking of pots I'll need a larger pot. The ones I have at the moment would be lucky to fit 10L at the brim, and I'd need to allow for overboil. Some hops bags would be good as well.

Should be able to do this with minimal outlay. Just need to source the ingredients, I'll try the place in greensy as Heidelberg doesn't seem to have half of those grains.

Thanks again, manticle
 
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